I originally posted this in the appropriate "exhaust" board with no results. You guys are usually pretty helpful, so I figured I give it a shot/
I had to drop my Y pipe to replace my starter and now there is a slight leak under acceleration. I triple checked and everthing is tight. It looks like these don't use any type of gasket at the Y, just a metal to metal flange. Is there anything I can use to stop this annoying leak. Also, since air is getting in or visa versa, its tripping the "check engine" light - probably due to the O2 sensor not seeing what it wants. What can I do?
I had to drop my Y pipe to replace my starter and now there is a slight leak under acceleration. I triple checked and everthing is tight. It looks like these don't use any type of gasket at the Y, just a metal to metal flange. Is there anything I can use to stop this annoying leak. Also, since air is getting in or visa versa, its tripping the "check engine" light - probably due to the O2 sensor not seeing what it wants. What can I do?
Supreme Member
This is a real technical way to fix the ex. leak, and it is best performed by a profesional.... 
Loosen the ex. flange bolts a little on the side that is leaking, and give the pipe a good whack with a large hammer, hit it kind of left and then right.
This will "seat" the flange, usually what happens is the pipes grow crud around the original seating position, and when it goes back up, its in a different spot.
As far as the code goes, check the and see what the code is...make sure its an O2 code and you didnt knock the knock sensor plug off or something....
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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech
1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...
R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"
[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited October 30, 2001).]
Loosen the ex. flange bolts a little on the side that is leaking, and give the pipe a good whack with a large hammer, hit it kind of left and then right.
This will "seat" the flange, usually what happens is the pipes grow crud around the original seating position, and when it goes back up, its in a different spot.
As far as the code goes, check the and see what the code is...make sure its an O2 code and you didnt knock the knock sensor plug off or something....
------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech
1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...
R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"
[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited October 30, 2001).]
Should I use sandpaper to try and remove the grit, or just wack it like you said?
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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.
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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.
Supreme Member
Which flange is leaking??
At the ex. manifold, or at the y pipe to cat flange??
The ex. manifolds are easier to just loosen the pipe just a little and use the hammer trick, the cat flange could be easier/better to do the sandpaper trick.
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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech
1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...
R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"
At the ex. manifold, or at the y pipe to cat flange??
The ex. manifolds are easier to just loosen the pipe just a little and use the hammer trick, the cat flange could be easier/better to do the sandpaper trick.
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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech
1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R
and 2 POS commuters...
R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"
Its where the exhaust manifold meets the Y, so I guess I should try the hammer, eh? I was thinking about smearing some hi-temp copper anti-sieze on there and hoping it would slide into it proper place, but I guess I'l try the hammer first.
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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.
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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.