Hey guys I really do not know much about cars but I wanted to ask these questions...

How in the world do they get so much power out of a 4.6L Mustang engine?

How can an F-Body With a 350 TPI beat a Mustang Cobra?

Did I mess up by choosing a Camaro over a Mustang?

I have a 1989 Iroc

Please tell me why you guys chose GM over Ford because Im in need of conforting thanks!

 

1) They don't!

2) Ditch the TPI setup, it was never designed for performance.

3) No, Mustangs suck.

 

They look better, they're far more comfortable to sit in(ever sit in a Mustang? it's like sitting on a granite seat), they have handling so far superior to a Mustang out of the factory, it's ridiculous. I swear, every single time I drove/rode in my friends Mustang, I swore the car was going to roll over or go into a spin. Those cars are stiff as boards. Ford took the ride and handling department and had them all shot. The Firedbird/Camaros are FAR meaner looking. Those Mustangs, no matter what year STILL look like they were designed for their original target market, secretaries.

Mustangs are lighter than our cars, not sure by how much, which prolly gives them a good advantage in quickness and such. My friend is an excellent driver, he sometimes races for Steeda, but I absolutely do NOT feel safe in his or any mustang when they take off. In my Firebird, I feel safe as can be. It's really a matter of taste and opinion. Out of the factory, your 350 is not gonna beat a modern Mustang. Do some work and you will though. The real out of the factory competition for the mustang would be, in my opinion, cars like the Corvette, 300Z, NSX, etc. But look at their pricetags. Do some work on your car, and you'll get far more respect when you beat a Stang than when some Stang owner slaps a turbo on and beats other Mustangs.

 

Your car was fast back in the very early 90s, but as technology changed, cars got faster. You won't be able to hang with a new mustang, but you should walk all over ones of the similar years.

 

exactly. You gotta compare with sililar years.

It is def not hard to get your car to be faster than 95% of other cars on the road. If you have a SBC you are allready 1/2 way there.

 

Thanks guys is there anyway I can get like 300-400hp out of my camaro without adding a supercharger or nitrous? Oh and sorry about this but whats an SBC?

 

SBC = Small Block Chevy (referring to your motor)

 

do u still want E.F.I.?

How much $ can u spend?



Your best bet is buy a camaro modding book and read it twice. You will learn all you need to know form there.

Buy the one on ebay that hase the blue camaro on the front. GREAT book to get your basline camaro modding info from. Then come and ask very spesific Q's about stuff you dont get. Also just spen time reading threads and use the search button. You will find everyhting you want to know, from getting 200, 300, 400, 500, 600 HP with no supercharger. Just read.

 

thanks guys...I bought my camaro because chevy has always had a part in my family and ford wasnt the way to go. I really do love my Iroc but hate when GT's or Cobras make fun of it.

 

defeinately do some searching around. Yu can easily get to the 300 hp range in a few weekends worth of work and not blowing an insane amount of money.

Mostly, air in/ air out is the best way, cooler, cleaner intake air and a freerer flowing exhaust will wake things up right a way.

 

I have a 50 series Flowmaster on it and I want to get a cold air intake but some people just say get some K&N Filters and gut the Filter Box. What do you guys think? Now that im here and feel that I shouldnt start a new thread can one of you tell me what this is...? I dont have the camaro book so I dont have any Idea what it is. Does it need to be covered?


http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?i...atsthis7te.jpg

 

By freerer exhaust, I meant system wise. The stock manifolds are a real killer of the motors potential. Some will say Hooker is the way to go, me I went Edelbrock TES, and stayed legal. Then from there a a free flow cat & Amercian Thunder sytem w/80 series.

Passed the smog test and I'm happy with the results.

I would not recommend just hacking up your air boxes on the intake side. I really haven't messed iwht mine all that much. I did run the Throttle body coolant hose bypass and that really changed performance when the motor got up to temp. Before it would slow up, now it stays virtually unchanged form cold operation. Now, IF you live in a climate of extreme changes, you will have to the hoses back for winter from what I hear. I'm not runnign mine for the winter.

 

can anyone tell me if the part sticking out on the engine is normal?

 

lol, yes, it is. It is supposed to have a plastic cable loom on it to hold those cables near it. However, it appears someone has removed the bolts at some point and placed it in the wrong spot, along with tossing out the cable loom. If you look a little further to the left of where it is now, you'll see two large torx bolts bolted to the plenum. It should be where the top bolt is. That top bolt should be where the red circled bolt is.

Does it matter now? No, unless you replace the cable loom. Then you'll want to move the 2 bolts so the loom can actually function. Aside from the type/look of the bolt, it is functionally the same as the other torx bolts near it. Most likely someone either broke it off in a ham handed manner of handling parts, lost it, or decided they didn't approve of it and tossed it away. Personally, I'd either buy a new one or keep an eye out for one in my junkyard travels. It's useful in routing the cables so they stay where they belong, don't get caught on something, touch a burning piece of metal and melt, etc. However, most people will prolly just tell you it's not important and to forget about it. To each his own. Of course I replaced my charcoal canister recently which many people loathe, so I might be a bit biased on keeping all my cars parts intact, lol.

If you're interested, the part number is 8917256 and is available from gmpartsdirect, prolly the dealer and maybe other places for about 5 or 6 dollars.

 

Most stock 4.6L mustangs run 14.4 to 14.6, you should be running that fast right now. With the free mods mentioned, TB bypass, gut the air box (it won't hurt a thing) and advance the timing a couple degrees you should be a little lower than that. With a full exhaust and a set of gears you'll be in the high 13's which will kill a cobra.

4.6L's are not that great of a motor, people just like them because they'll pull some crazy rpm's. I have a friend with a bolt on 4.6 cobra, he has over 5K in his mods and only puts down 360 HP to the wheels. He currently holds the record for the most HP on an internally stock cobra motor. With 5K in mods to your car you'll be putting down way more than that. Heck I can't even think of how to spend 5k on a SBC.

 

LOL. That is so true. Those 4.6s just LOVE to over spend on crap. They have some good lookin parts and stuff, but for what they pay to get 2 HP, please.

You can get just about whatever you want from a SBC with 5 grand.

You can get:

GREAT heads, GREAT intake, GREAT carb or even EFI. And a cam. With that kinda stuff you can smoke a hole lot more than mustangs, You will be able to go by them idling, haha.

 

i bought mine because I loved the way they looked, other than the 69, i hate the way the rest of them look. Plus, EVERYONE has a damn mustang.

You can get any thing you want from any car, it depends on how much you want to research and how much $ you have. You can get 1000hp from a stang just as you can get a 1000hp from a camaro. You can have a 9 second stang or you can have a 9 second camaro, again, it's time and money you need. one might be easier than the other.

Chevy parts are THE easiest to get, Ford, is second, but still not too easy, mopar is almost hard unless you find the right groups but that is some $$.

Agreed stangs are not comfortable, i've ridden in my friends fox body (400hp to wheels) and it's super fast, but not real comfortable, plus I dont feel safe at 145mph in the fox body, where as I feel completley safe doing 145 in my camaro.

 

in all reality, in the end, all of our cars are built by edelbrock and powerdyne.


This is a general statement, so dont start a flame war on the names.

 

I was just saying that bang for the buck wise the TES are a far cry over stock manifolds. Others say that that the TES have no where near as good a flow rate as Hooker headers.

All in all I don't know, I've never sat down and studied the numbers but one: Price

 

I had the edelborcks on my 305 TPI. Seemed fine to me. Got the bottom end power I was lookin for. Car got louder too . Fit was nice too. Plenty of room with shorties.

Those were the nice days, the ones before trying to stuff 2210s under a lowered car, hehe.

 

are the 2210's the ones that have a real nice slight bend to the down tubes so plug swaps are easily done without being a contortionist in a circuis freak show?

That is the only bad part of the TES, plug swaps, after a few times you get the knack of it, but the first time you go to do it, word of caution, if you live next door to a church, tell em to make sure the windows are closed.

 

LOL. That is helariouse. The 2210s are the hooker Long tubes that have thier own intalation sticky in the exhaust forum.

 

All I know is I saw this beuty of an RS '91 or so @ the Brookfield, IL. Auto Show a few months back (throw'n that out there in case the owner is on here).

This thing was set up the exact way I'm planing mine, parts list almost identical. But his headers where an absolute mystery with no tags or markings on em. But every plug was a straight shot. Of course, owner was nowhere to be found ta ask. I almost want to say they were one off fab jobs, but man were they cleanly done if so.