'89 L03 no start - VATS?
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From: Troy, MI, USA
'89 L03 no start - VATS?
Wrenchin on the '89 WS6 Formula (L03/700r4), trying to get her running.
Basically, battery is "good" (good enough anyways), all electrics seem to work, ign switch seems to work (acc., key off and key on engine off) just wont start at all. No cranking, no selinoid engaging, but the inst. cluster goes through the typical starting deal.
Actually, two lights light up that have me a little confused (haven't driven this car in a few years). First is the brake light, should that go off with my foot on the brake during engine starting, or does it always come on? Second is the security light. It lights up when I try to start, and I'm almost htinking its a problem with the VATS system, maybe even just a loose/broken wire. Unforutnately there is very little info on this system around.
Guess I'm asking really only 1 specific question. Assuming the vats doesnt get the proper signal needed (for whatever reason), how would the car react to a start-up attempt?
Basically, battery is "good" (good enough anyways), all electrics seem to work, ign switch seems to work (acc., key off and key on engine off) just wont start at all. No cranking, no selinoid engaging, but the inst. cluster goes through the typical starting deal.
Actually, two lights light up that have me a little confused (haven't driven this car in a few years). First is the brake light, should that go off with my foot on the brake during engine starting, or does it always come on? Second is the security light. It lights up when I try to start, and I'm almost htinking its a problem with the VATS system, maybe even just a loose/broken wire. Unforutnately there is very little info on this system around.
Guess I'm asking really only 1 specific question. Assuming the vats doesnt get the proper signal needed (for whatever reason), how would the car react to a start-up attempt?
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From: Troy, MI, USA
hmm, so I guess I need ot trouble shoot the VATS. Great.
Well first things first, test the wires/circuits. Really have never messed with this stuff before, but maybe somebody could point me towards some info on this system?
Well first things first, test the wires/circuits. Really have never messed with this stuff before, but maybe somebody could point me towards some info on this system?
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From: Troy, MI, USA
Key is suspect, getting extremely high resistance through the "chip" (I know its just a resistor). Does anybody know what range it should be in, I'm aware there are a few different exact resistances.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi w/Disc
If you're going to temporarily wire a resistor into the VATS input, start off with a 1.5k. For some crazy reason, every thridgen I've seen has a 1.5k VATS key.
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Oddly enough, I got a second set of hands and got a better reading on the key chip. 7.48k, so I'm going to run two 3.9k (actual measured value of 3.82k and 3.81k ) in series for a total of about 7.8k; hopefully that is within the fault tolerance for the VATS decoder.
In any case, I did narrow it down to a switch-position sensitive VATS resistance issue, so I figure worst comes to worst I'll just have to tear down the steering column (which needs down anyways as the tilt is busted).
In any case, I did narrow it down to a switch-position sensitive VATS resistance issue, so I figure worst comes to worst I'll just have to tear down the steering column (which needs down anyways as the tilt is busted).
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