Tank to manifold and return line?

I'd like to know before I order this expensive crap

 

I don't know how much you'll need, but it will be a lot and it will be expensive. Are you dead set on braided stainless? There's cheaper stuff you can use.

 

Don't really have a choice, I have to have an insane fuel system and all the "experts" say there is no reason to do anything but braid...

 

Cost is a reason. You can bend your own tubing, or you can use an approved reinforced rubber hose.

 

Amen,the "experts" aren't paying for it,are they?
Cost,between all the line and the fttings,counting an elbow or two that you end up not being able to use because "they looked right",would likely run you close to 3 Franklins.

for around a hundred,you can buy a good bender,a cheap double flare kit,all your tubing,and flare nuts.Learning to work with tubing is a free bonus.
Another free bonus i a cleaner fuel system,because none of the trash created cutting braided hose will land in your carb or injectors.

 

I know it would be much more cost efficient to run tubing, but all the turbo mustang guys (carb board) say -10an from tank and -10an return line.

I would NEVER have to worry about my fuel system again =D

 

Run 1/2" or bigger tube then.

 

Tubing in that ID will flow just as much as the AN line will.10AN would be 3/4",if I recall correctly.
Or be stupid and pay out the A$$ for braided bling,it's your cash.Just remember us when cash is short down the road.

 

25 feet of 5/8" tubing is about $30. The same length of 1/2" braided hose is at least $110, and then you have to put fittings on it.

 

What requirements are forcing you to have -10 to and from the tank?

(I have -10 from the tank to the pump and a -8 return, but I have a source - besides the point, it's probaby a tad bit overkill on my motor)

 

Thats what size my regulator takes, thats what my fuel pump takes.....plus I'll have room for upgrades later...boost w/ a carb is a PAIN...

 

Do the Feed and Return both go to the Regulator?
If so, then 2x 20' and 1x 10'.
Mount the regulator near the firewall and the 2 20's go to the tank and regulator and the 10' can be cut and used to go from the regulator to the filter to the carb.
Probably cost around $400 for the lines and fittings (if not more).

 

Sounds about right in terms of length and cost.

If you want to go with nice hose at 1/2 the cost, use twist lock stuff. Really good stuff. I love it. You can assemble the system while you are unter the car. To put a fitting on all you need is a drop of oil and just about all your weight pushing down on them for about 30 seconds and the fitting sss--lll---oo---ww--ll--yy slides into the tube. Once it is in there, you will NEVER get it out without cutting the tubing. Fittings are nice and cheap and come in different finishes. Also you can cut the tube with a nice razor working back and forth for a bit. If you need more tube, it not a big deal.

I say all this cuz I am building my set up all this week. I am goin 8-AN all over, from thank to red, to carb, to N2O, to return, to guage. All hose cose under 100 and fitting maybe 120 just cuz I needed soooo many, I am running 3 filters. I will fill you in if anyone is curiouse Y.

Well I like it and it gets the job done, Russel is the name of the stuff I think.

 

what are you planning that would require such massive sized lines? With the proper pump and setup you could supply enough fuel to feed 600HP with the factory 3/8" lines. Contrary to popular belief you can overkill your fuel system and cause problems.

 

He must be racing in a circle-track class with 500-lap races on 1-mile tracks that don't have many cautions, and trying to skirt the fuel-cell capacity rule

 

You meen by adding more fuel due to big lines?

 

well your experts are wrong.



i suggest you find new ones.

in the meantime, why dont you tell us what the car is, ect.. and we'll give our opinions on it... and i'll backup whatever i say with a reason... not "no reason to do anything but"... lol

 

Ummm, yeah....

You got a 20-gallon fuel cell rule, you get 5 miles per gallon, you put big enough lines on your car to hold a gallon more than everybody else, that's 5 more laps between pit stops on a 1-mile track. Could be the difference between lapping the field or losing the race.

Don't laugh, it's been done. They got caught. That's why NASCAR has a fuel line size rule.

 

Nice.

Hey now that we are talkin about tubes and lines and stuff, I am racking my brain over what to do. please help me out, (I do not mean to hijack the thread, but there are some good guys allready checking it normally)

I want to redo my brake lines, what lines do you sugest I run. Stainless hard line? or 3-AN or 4-AN braided?

Also For my fuel lines I am running 8-AN twistlock all over, exept to the carb, I want it to look smoother, so I am running hardline from my reg to the carb. I should add a bit of a spiral in there right, to compensate for engine movement? I am running an electric pump.

also where is a good place to mount a holly race fuel pump under the car?

For the purpose of these questions leave price out of it, I am willing to spend a pretty penny to do it right.

Thanks guys.

 

you should never run a hardline between the engine and chassis unless the engine is using motorplates or some other totally sold mounting system.

 

Well i am not slod on that set up. I might mount the reg on the engine. Or just use braided line.

Anyone have any more info on my brake Qs?

 

Hose will swell slightly under the pressure which will reduce braking performance. You'd also need teflon lined hose which is even more expensive. In any case it wouldn't be D.O.T. legal. Run hard line instead.

 

OK, I will run hard line, that is what I was leaning twords anyways. Now that that is outta the way, What diameter should I go with for the best preformance.

3/16
1/4
5/16
3/8

That is the sizes that summit sells for a nice low price. So do I just get the biggest or something?

 

http://www.classictube.com/
http://www.inlinetube.com/
http://www.finelinesinc.com/

 

Pre-bent replacement brake lines from one of the above sources are a lot nicer to work with than bulk tubing that you have to bend and flare yourself.

 

Yeah I know about all of those companies and they are a great choice, but I am running a tubular K-member and Line lock, Also I need lines for my 12 bolt. By the time I re-bend the "new replacment" lines from one of these companies and add lines on the 12 bolt and such, I might as well just bend them all myslef.

I am looking through a jegs cataloge and see that they have brake line to -AN fittings. Can't I just run a 3-AN or 3/8 stainless tubeing? I am also sorta wondering if there is a way around the flaring....There are solid fuel line fittings that go from tube to -AN withouth flaring. Just wondering.

If i have to buy a flare tool and do a lot of work I am not tunred away from the idea one bit, I am just trying to find the best cleanest way to do this. Thanks

 

the cleanest way is to take your time bending the tubing, and flaring it yourself.

 

I know where to find the flaring tool, what size are brake line fittings? Do they have a special threead or anything like that?

In summit all I see under their stainless steel line is tube sleaves and nuts. Not too sure what theses are and if I ned them to make my brake system or not. Can you fill me in a bit, thanks. I am planning on a 3/8 set up for the lines

 

Brake fittings on cars from 1984 and up are metric bubble flares, usually M1.0 or M1.5. The tubing itself is considerably smaller than 3/8". Rather than making these flares in steel tubing yourself, you can get pre-flared lengths at your local parts store that just need to be bent.

 

yeah thats what I was thinking of doing too. I just figured since I was gonna do the whole car, I might as well do the flaring. But yeah I guess if a piece is not long enough they have junction pieces and stuff. I guess I will just do that.