Ok you guys,
I need some input from you guys! Ok I am now starting to consider the new induction system for my 383. Right now I am looking at the mini ram, but I have heard some stories about there castings and I also heard about the Holley stealth ram. Are there any other options to choose from? And would would be the best for my application? One thing that I do know is that I want to keep it fuel injected and that the gaskets that fits my heads are Fel-Pro 1206. I do not know if I can get the holley stealth ram, can that fit a Fel-Pro 1206. These are the parts that I have on my car.

Ok here is the list.

383 Fully Balanced rotating assembly from Eagle specialty products
stroke 3.75 x bore 4.060
6” rods (non cap screw)

Cam:
comp cams camshaft (08-305-8) Specs:
Advertised duration: 276 in / 290 ex
Duration @ .05: 220 in / 230 ex
Lift: .510 in / .510ex


Heads – Pro Topline Pro lightning heads with 74 cc chambers
200 cc intake runners that have been polished
2.02 Manley intake valves
1.60 Manley exhaust valves
Comp cams springs retainers all the good stuff
Set pressure 130#; open pressure @ .50 lift 350#
Complete 1:6 Roller rockers
Heads were put together at a performance shot in my home town

Headers- SLP 1 ¾” coated

Ignition – Stock but will up grade shortly

Torque Converter – I have hard many things about going to a high stall, I heard it will kill my gas mileage a lot. If I do get a new stall I want to keep it fairly low

Trans – 700-r4 with shift kit

Rear end 4:11

Computer - its stock, when I bought the car it already had a chip. I am planning on getting the chip reprogrammed or I will get a new chip if it is not reprogrammable. I would like to wait till my car is running and take it to the dyno and have it tuned by people that know what they are doing

That is all that I can think of right now. So if you guys can give me some input about different induction systems I would really appreciate it. Thanks again for your help!

 

The HSR is verrrry close to being able to be ported to a 1206 but a lot of people have extra metal welded on when they go to that size gasket. Someone posted a picture with a 1206 traced onto the HSR and it gets very thin, probably too thin, to go that big without welding. Other options could be a Super Ram, converted LT1 intake, converted singleplane intake, or Mini Ram as you mentioned.

Edit: Spelling

 

thanks a million for your imput. However i did talk to john at lt1 intake.com and he told me that a fel-pro 1206 gasket would not fit on a lt1 intake. Once again thanks for helping me out.

 

What's your intended compression ratio? I'm at 10.6:1 with a 68 cc combustion chamber and a 0.005 inch deck height relative to the piston face. The high tens are just great for 93 octane pump gas and helps build power.

Your cam sounds okay albeit a bit mild for the miniram, and the valve lift looks somewhat low for a 200 cc intake runner. WIth the 200 cc head you'll probably find airflow doesnt peak until nearly 0.6 inches of lift, so if you can boost it into the 0.550" valve lift area it'll probably pay dividends and utilize the heads flow potential.

I like my miniram. It went on easy and I didnt have any leaks whatsoever. I installed it this summer along with an aftermarket EFI computer: Accel gen 6 EFI. In fact, I just moved to the FAST XFI and my gen 6 is for sale with a really, really good tune for minirammed 383's. The engine got 19 mpg, idled in traffic all day and pushed the car to 113 mph in the quarter mile with only 17 miles on the shortblock.

--Dan

 

Dan,
Thanks for you input! Well my compression will be anywhere from 9.4 to around 9.8 I really don’t know to tell you the truth. The guy the built my heads was telling me at the altitude that we are at I should stay within that range for pump gas, and to keep away from detonation. Were I live we are about 5200 ft. And for my cam I have read for street use going over 130* (@ .05 lift) isn’t practical considering ill probably never go over 6000. I know that having 1.6 rockers should increase my lift a bit I think its around .54 or so, please correct me if im wrong, on this and anything else that I said. Thanks a million for you help.
Edwin

One more thing I want to add about my heads; here are the flow numbers for them. These are the numbers that pro topline clams they make and remeber that my heads are polished.

intake:
lift / flow
.1 / 70.74
.2 / 146.41
.3 / 203.72
.4 / 249.84
.5 / 260.98
.6 / 268.51
.7 / 276.41

Exhaust:
lift / flow
.1 / 56.9
.2 / 100.99
.3 / 156.94
.4 / 176.85
.5 / 186.34
.6 / 190.13
.7 / 194.87

 

Those are really good out of the box flow numbers!

As for compression ratio at altitude, I see no reason whatsoever why you would see detonation any sooner than at sea level. If anything, it's the other way around! That's why forced induction engines like supercharged and turbocharged applications lower their compression ratio: Their effective atmospheric pressure is much, much higher than sea level pressures. You'd better double-check on that, I think you are giving up 40 horsepower in just compression ratio alone. Call TPIS, Thunder Racing, or one of the other premeire race houses and ask them. Today's fuel injection and modern cam profiles let you get away with a lot more compression ratio than in days past.

It is my understanding that less-dense air (from alitude) is somewhat akin to having less throttle opening. For instance: At 80% throttle at 882 feet above sea level, my MAP sensor reads about 90 KPA. If I went to 5200 feet, I would need 99% throttle opening to reach 90 KPA. What would be the difference? About the only thing I could think of would be fuel pressure, relative to the manifold pressure. ...and THAT can be compensated with just a simple twist of the screw on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

I think you will be better off with a 10.75:1 static compression ratio with aluminum heads, or a 10.25:1 compression ratio with iron heads. Consider having those heads angle milled to whatever volume is required to boost it into the tens. Your EFI system should be able to handle it, since you are using a dry intake and port fuel injection with knock sensor.

As for intake, if you are planning to never exceed 6000 RPM, perhaps the better intake for you would be the stealth ram system with 52mm throttle body to maximize torque. The Miniram does well, but it really, really likes to breathe past 5K RPM.

 

Dan,
Hey thanks a lot, your information its really helping me! Well if I want to get my heads to get a combustion ratio of about 10.2, because my heads are iron, I could have them milled is that corrected. Now to tell you the truth I really don’t know too much about this subject and by any chance do you know how much it would cost to mill the heads. Would the heads have to be disassembled and them reassembled to get this done? And one more comment I would like to make about the stealth ram is that I don’t think that it will fit on my heads. I know people talk about doing some welding to make them work but I don’t know how to weld and I do not know of any of the shops around here will weld them for me. Do you know if that service is normally offered? Well once again thanks for you input!

Edwin

 

Your are welcome. Now, if the HSR is going to require you to weld, then dont buy it! The performance difference isn't worth the hassle. (at least, to me anyway.)

To get the heads milled, you will have to pull the valves out. Pretty much guaranteed. However, if you keep track of the parts (i.e. spacers, springs, retainers, valves) and put them in individual ziplock bags that are plainly labeled as to which cylinder position they are from, it's an easy deal to reassemble.

I think any engine shop that is set up for performance work will be able to do it for between $60 and $120 if you pull your own valves. The tool is at sears, and it looks like a big C-clamp. Comp Cams and Powerhouse probably also offer it for sale online.

 

If you are going to take out your valves and have the heads milled, I highly recommend buying the type of valve spring compressor that is designed to be used if the heads are on the engine even though you will be doing it with the heads removed. I find they are much easier to use, all you do is turn a little **** on the top. I've had problems with three different C-clamp style ones, I don't know if it's just me or what.

Edit: I like this kind: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2078.html
That exact one might be a cheap version and you might want a higher quality one, but that's what they look like.