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Why do I have oil coming from head bolts??

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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Why do I have oil coming from head bolts??

How does that happen? I thought they only went into the coolant passages?
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Which head bolts?
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:09 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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you sure it's coming from them and not dripping on them? only way you could have oil coming from a head bolt is oil getting into the coolant and then have a leaking head bolt too, 2 imdependent events
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:10 AM
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Right; all 34 go DIRECTLY into the water jacket. It is not possible for oil to come out of them unless you filled your cooling system with oil. (don't laugh... it's been done before.... OK, go ahead and laugh now....)

What type of sealer did you put on their threads?
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
I used white teflon thread sealant last time. Maybe I didn't use enough or something is cracked? Block or head damage? The valve cover was still tight and the gasket was good.

It just looked like the oil was oosing from the bolts. Quite a bit too. I've never heard of anything like this before.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 03:30 PM
  #6  
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
oops, they were the bottom row, short bolts that were leaking.

W/ ARP hardware do you guys run the motor and then retorque the heads? Or tq them once when assembling them and go w/ it?
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 03:48 PM
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I just build it and drive it. I can't remember the last time I re-torqued a head.

New cars don't need it; correctly rebuilt ones shouldn't either.
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 04:23 PM
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
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Axle/Gears: 323's
i asked that ? once about re-torquing head bolts after a break-in and got a unanimous NO. if you retorque, it'll disturb the thread sealer, and if properly torqued, shouldn't need re-torque. so i left mine alone cuz i know i torqued them right, but i had a leak before that i'll have to check later - when it's running again...
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
What do you tq al. heads to? 65 ft lbs?
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 08:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Originally posted by Free Bird
What do you tq al. heads to? 65 ft lbs?
I'd check with the head manufacturer... you could look up the torque specs on a late '80s Corvette as well though, they had aluminum heads.
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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From: Browns Town
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Sure it wasn't oil under the head bolts from when you adjusted rockers? Leaking valve cover? Could just be oozing if solvent wasn't used to blow off the residue. Hopefully it will not continue to oozze.
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 10:25 PM
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
All GM aluminum heads that I've dealt with (pre-LS1) require 65ft-lbs, applied in 3 equal stages. I do 22-44-65 personally, though you don't have to be that exact with things (i.e. 20-45-65 will work fine as well, as long as they are 3 fairly equal steps)
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