OK guys, I've seen a few threads on the EGR valve. But none have said how to remove and replace. And any other part or parts. I'm burning more fuel, slight power loss, smell gas.

Thanks in advance

 

There it is, right between the fuel rails underneath the upper plenum.

 

It's fairly easy. Just remove some bolts, a few parts, and it's right there:

 

I would recommend getting a direct replacement EGR valve from a dealer. The AC Delco parts fit right out of the box, but the universal valves sold at AutoZone and the like come with spacers and shims that are confusing (at least to me) to put back together.

 

Excellent point. Those "universal" EGR valves with the staked-in orifice washers to control flow are not always the best for TPIs. I'm not certain if any of those even have a provision for the diagnostic temperature switch on the base:

 

what is that temp switch for anyway? mine is unhooked and do not get (service engine soon light) light is off. I have been reading through my shop manual to find out with no luck.

 

Diagnostics: You'll need a scanner to see if the switch is on, or off.
Code 32 means that the EGR diagnostic switch was closed during start-up or that the switch was not detected closed under the following conditions:
Coolant temperature greater than 176 degrees F.
EGR duty cycle commanded by the ECM is greater than 48%.
TSP less than wide open throttle (WOT) but not at idle.
Codes 21, 22, 33, 34 not present.
All conditions above must be met for about 4 minutes.
If the switch is detected closed during start-up, or if the switch is detected open when the above conditions are met, the "Service Engine Soon" light will remain "ON" unless the switch changes state

Diagnostics: No Scanner
Ground the switch wire durung a cold start and see of it sets a code. Once it warms up check for continuity from the switch wire to ground, if it's grounded, and no codes were set, then your ECM may be faulty.

 

what am I hurting by having that temp diagnostic switch unpluged?

With it hooked up I am getting code 32 due to the switch being closed or grounded on startup.( the wiring to the switch is messed up on the switch base on egr) I dont want to replace egr just yet if not absolutely neccessary. I guess that the switch will never close because it is unplugged. Is my egr still working like this or not? I am not getting a service engine soon light this way....Ryan


thanks for helping

 

Nothing is being damaged, diag is just letting you know that the switch may be defective. Expensive sensor btw, might be best to get a used one.
The switch makes contact when the temperature at the base of the EGR is around 176°, the wire at the top is soldered to an adjustable screw.
It may just need adjusting, remove it, connect a ohm meter to it, back the screw out until continuity is broken, put it in vise, heat the business end of it with a propane torch, monitor the temperature, when it reaches the right temp, then adjust the screw inward until it makes contact, (may need to do this several times to get it to make contact at the right temp) then lock the screw with thread locker. Even if you buy it used, you'll still need to test it.

 

Thanks for the info guys. However my service engine light doesn't come on til 10 or so minutes into a drive. I haven't checked my EGR yet but I'll definitely get one from the dealer as you suggested if its defective. Are there any related parts that should be replaced???

 

ECM always sees a start/restart as a cold start so diags will not set codes right away.