cold start and cold driveabilty problems..need help
#1
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Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt w/ aluminum drums
cold start and cold driveabilty problems..need help
just got this car, '88 IROC, 305/5spd...
car has been sitting for a year..
changed fuel filter, plugs, cap, and rotor....
gas in car is almost a year old, but i added octane booster and fuel system cleaner to it so I can run it through the car.
1st: pulled old plugs, and they smelled like fuel..
car does seem to smell rich once running..
car wont hold an idle when cold, once it warms up a little, it will hold idle, but not very good..
car also dies once in gear and trying to give it gas, such as backing out of driveway, etc......
have check engine light on, but no code scanner...if someone can post a link to a tutorial on the paperclip deal for check engine, It would help....
wire to left O2 sensor was broken, and butt connected back together...
basically, car is acting like a carbed car, with no choke, thats been sitting for a week and trying to start it in cold temps...
thanks for the help....
car has been sitting for a year..
changed fuel filter, plugs, cap, and rotor....
gas in car is almost a year old, but i added octane booster and fuel system cleaner to it so I can run it through the car.
1st: pulled old plugs, and they smelled like fuel..
car does seem to smell rich once running..
car wont hold an idle when cold, once it warms up a little, it will hold idle, but not very good..
car also dies once in gear and trying to give it gas, such as backing out of driveway, etc......
have check engine light on, but no code scanner...if someone can post a link to a tutorial on the paperclip deal for check engine, It would help....
wire to left O2 sensor was broken, and butt connected back together...
basically, car is acting like a carbed car, with no choke, thats been sitting for a week and trying to start it in cold temps...
thanks for the help....
Last edited by LVZ2881; 11-21-2005 at 02:28 AM.
#2
Is the engine TPI or TBI? Just curious. The procedure is the same, regardless.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on some models, and on the left on others, depending on the make and year. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim, or at least was when the car was delivered.
Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:
WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open/print the file.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on some models, and on the left on others, depending on the make and year. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim, or at least was when the car was delivered.
Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:
WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open/print the file.
Last edited by Vader; 03-31-2018 at 10:58 AM. Reason: Updated links
#3
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Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt w/ aluminum drums
it is a TPI car.....
thanks for the info Vader....I'll do that when i get home tonight!!
thanks for the info Vader....I'll do that when i get home tonight!!
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Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
are you sure that O2 sensor wire is properly hooked up? that might not be the cause if the car isnt leaving open loop. the computer doesnt even look at the o2 sensor untill it enters closed loop
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Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt w/ aluminum drums
Originally posted by rwdtech
are you sure that O2 sensor wire is properly hooked up? that might not be the cause if the car isnt leaving open loop. the computer doesnt even look at the o2 sensor untill it enters closed loop
are you sure that O2 sensor wire is properly hooked up? that might not be the cause if the car isnt leaving open loop. the computer doesnt even look at the o2 sensor untill it enters closed loop
I have a new O2 to install tonight..
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