Allright I got a problem. I went to go change the fuel filter n my 3rd gen. Well I went to take one side off and I snapped the line because it was so rusted. Well I figured, not a big deal, I can just use a fuel line repair kit. Well I then sprayed some PB blaster on the other line and filter inlet and then I waited 15 minutes and then I went to at least get that side off. Well, that side ended up snapping too.

Now that I both sides are snapped, I really don't feel like springing the $$$ for 2 fuel line repair kits (unless I can do 2 ends of a line with one kit) and although I probably could manage bending my own line, I've heard it's a real pain in the *** and I don't have the tools to do it.

Is there any way I can just cut the fuel lines from where they broke, and then run a nylon line connecting them, and clamp it with hose clamps? The motor is a 350 carbureted SBC, but it has the original V6 lines and an upgraded, in tank pump.

If I can't how hard, time consuming, and long does it take, to bend my own fuel line for a 3rd gen? Do I have to do anything besides the fuel line like drop the tank or anything?

-Thanks, Brandon

 

You shouldn't have to drop the tank. Where is the pressure regulated, at the engine? Is it a return-style regulator? If the pressure in the line you are repairing is in the 4-6 psi range, then you can use rubber hose with clamps over the clean-cut hard line. To replace the entire line, you'd probably have to drop the tank down to get access to the beginning of the line at the tank pick-up.

I used aluminum line from the tank to engine on the '57. Love the stuff, easy to cut, flare & bend. Haven't had any issues with the Camaro, but it was a carb'd V6 when I got it - no fuel filter back by the tank.

 

If it's a low psi line then hose and clamp would suffice. If not, go get a flaring tool and some line and adapters and have at it. All told you are probably looking at $20-$30 including the flaring tool for the latter option

 

It was originally a Multi-port fuel injected V6. how much PSI would that be? Could I try a nylon line over the metal stuff, start the car and watch for any leaks? If it works, then just leave it? Or could I try some steel braided hose over that section as opposed to nylon line?

 

It depends, was the in tank pump removed or is there a regulator somewhere controling the psi? If it's a high pressure line, flare it and do it right rather than risk future problems or injury. I will not recommend any traditional type hose/clamp combo for a high pressure line. Hell, I don't advocate compression type fittings either. :shrug:

 

No, there's a Mallory regulator up under the hood. Still an in tank pump. Is there any way I can save that line by flaring it and making it longer somehow????

 

Can I make a union sort of thing? Like cut both the lines, flare them, and then run a union line in between them. Will it leak? Is it okay to do that?

Also, if I do end up having to bend my own fuel line, is it absolutely neccesary to drop the tank? I really, really don't want to do that, nor have to put it back in there.

 

You could do the flare thing. You could also use ferrule type fittings.

 

Call me stupid, but what are ferrule type fittings? I think I'm gonna do the joint thing. Will it be anything to worry leaking since it'll be a line, going into a joint, going into a fuel filter, going into a joint going into a line? Or should I just run the joint and run just my 1 filter up front?

 

Swagelocks (ferrule) or compression work pretty damn well but they are expensive although require no flaring. The cost would balance out to buying the flare tool though.

 

Oh I know what those are, never ehard them called that though. So if I cut the line clean and then put a compression fitting on both lines and then run a proper length line in between the 2, it'll work? My auto teacher (I go to a tech high school) said that sometimes those can leak if yuo don't get them just right and that they're easy to mess up. How expensive is just 2 compression fittings?

 

You can get them at any hardware store. I'd guess somewhere in the neighborhood of $5 or less each.

 

I get the stainless ones from Mcmaster Car and the swagelok ones are the patented ones since everything else is just a copy of it. Swagelok are the ones to get if you dont want them to leak. We use them for laboratory equipment and never have leaks. The stainless fittings are about $13.30 each.

http://www.swagelok.com

http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/pro...T=0&PG=0&RPR=0

This is not your standard compression fitting and are guaranteed not to leak. Its a double ferrule design.

http://www.swagelok.com/Downloads/An...be_Fitting.htm

 

What are the chances of a leak with Mcmaster fittings? Do I need any special tools to use these compression fittings besidesa wrench and a tubing cutter? The McMaster fittings are $13.30 each or is that the swagelock ones?

 

I just registered with swagelok and thats was the price for a 3/8 union. They sell a tool but they are pretty much a standalone piece you tighten with a wrench and are reusable. Mcmaster Carr sells a similar style called Yor-lock which is the $9.00 piece. Swagelok are the best compression fitting money can buy and are used in just about every industry. You can try and register with swagelok and purchase straight from them. You have to have a business account with McMaster Carr but I order stuff through them from my work account. I just ordered a couple from Swagelok site to test. I guess I will get a bill in the mail.

 

I used the hardware store brass version to repair a transmission cooler line. Never had a leak problem. Higher pressure than your fuel line, but thicker fluid.

Factory carb'd engines used flare fittings on the fuel pump to carb line. No particular reason either wouldn't work if done correctly.

 

The Swagelok version is overkill but we use it in labs because they are reusable and are idiot proof from messing up and leaking. In lab enviroments you tend to change fittings for different tasks so its works out cheaper to get something reusable then to have to replace fittings frequently.

 

What was the part number of the swagelock piece your looking for, i might have some on the shelf at work. We sell a bit of swagelock product to the diamond mines. Their a high quality piece and i havent seen one knockoff that can come close in quality.

If your up for it i could get you a great deal (almost cost) and ship them out to you.

In the end it might just be easier to flare it though...

 

I'm gonna use whatever my local Napa has. If it leaks, I'll let you know about those swagelock pieces. Does anyone know the stock diameter of the stock fuel line? I believe it's 3/8" right?

 

Allright I got a problem w/ cutting the fuel line. First I borrowed someone elses tubing cutter and it wouldn't cut through, so I simply assumed it wasn't sharp, returned it, and bought my own. Well I went to use the brand new one out of the package, and it still won't cut through.

Is there anyway that steel fuel line hardens in the cold? It's about 20* in my garage. People keep telling me that they cut through theirs like butter when they had to do it, but mine will not cut at all. If it is do to the cold, can I just hold a heat gun or hairdryer up to it for a minute or 2 and then try to cut?

Also, is the fuel line 3/8" or 5/16". I can't seem to tell from my tape measurer?

 

Not unless you want to start a fire. You don't need heat to cut it. This tool should just tighten around the tubing, and then you spin it. As you spin it, it starts to cut and you keep tightening it and spinning it until it cuts all the way through.