I've ran into some more trouble with my engine. As it turns out the motor I bought last year and just recently got into the car and started is no good. It ran a couple times, for very short periods of time ok. But when I finally did get her going the car had zero oil pressure and sounded pretty damn nasty. SO I took it back out, went out and bought a stand, put her up there (should have done this a year ago I know ) and found the bearings to have spots on them, grooves in the crank and some wear in the cylinder walls though I can see the original hone on them in areas. This is where my knowledge ends. I know those things are bad, I know the motor needs to be bored and the crank turned. What I don't know is what I should put in it and what it's going to cost me. So what I'd like from ya'll is, a nice set up that can be achieved for under $1000 (including machining). The car is daily driven on 93 octane fuel nothing lower, ever. It will see the strip, but not often, 1 or 2 times a season just for fun.

This is what I have to work with:
L31 2 bolt main block /w 1piece RMS stock crank
Vortec Heads (stock, will need to be worked for high lift)
Performer Intake Manifold
600cfm Edlebrock Carb
VAC Advance HEI Distributor

This will be the first motor that I actually put together, in all senses of the word. Any good books to help me along the way with torque specs or tips for putting together the bottom end? Any and all help is appreciated!

 

I would just keep an eye out for another crank, you should be able to pick up a used one in good condition cheaper than it would be for the machining.

You keeping the t5?

 

Any suggestions on crank if I was to go that route and things I should look for as signs of wear? And no, I do not plan on keeping the T5. T56 was going to be my winter project, but now motor has been slid into it's slot and t56 pushed to summer.

edit: something to consider, this is a 1piece RMS motor, not sure what that does to my crank selection.

 

Have the crank turned. Anything you find used for less would have to be turned as well.

Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons can be had for less than $100/set. You'll have to have the block checked to make sure where it will clean up, most likely .030" over will do it.

If you want to keep the Performer intake, keep the cam selection to a powerband of 5500 RPMs or less. If you're willing to go to a Performer RPM, you can get more cam.

I have no particular love for the Performer carbs, but I'll not expound further in order to protect my bias.

You should be able to rebuild the engine for less than $1000 if you go with a flat tappet cam. Getting it into the car and running for less than $1000 may be a challenge.

 

Looks like crank is no good, the rear main spun and the entire thing has shifted forward in the motor, when it did it a lot of grinding was done to the crank, don't think it's salvagable.

What you guys think about a 383 rotating assembly? Can get a crank/rods/pistons kit by Scat through Sallee Chevrolet for under $500. Not forged obviously.