Hey, just started today. Disconnected the radiator, let it drain, rad is out.

then took off the tpi and the runners, so thats done.

then took off the plenium and fuel lines up to the rubber fuel hose, thats done.

then off with the alt and serpentine belt.

whats next on my list of stuff to take off for tomorrow, im swapping my knocking coolent leaking battered 305 for a nice clean 305. all i gotta do is put the external stuff on the new block, it has all the enternals.

Also, most the stock plastic vaccume lines are like, snapping at the slightest movement, can i switch to rubber vac lines?

Also, the car front end is on ramps (dont have a lift or jacks or jackstands) would it be easier to take out the whole tranny or to just unbolt it from the block, and block it up so that it dosnt drop.

Will the tranny mount hold it up w/o blocking it?

Im taking the y pipe off, can i take out w/ headers on?

What about the ac, i need to take it off to get out the motor, what do i do, just vent it to the air and hope i dont get caught or what?

Thanks, i will be back.

 

A/C - since the car is now 1/2 apart, and non-transportable, don't see any alternative but letting the a/c vent - no way to capture now.

Front on ramps - you'll have a hard time getting block out with the front that high up (assuming you have a normal hoist) - may have to get tranny disconnected under car, then let car down to get block out.

You could leave tranny connected and pull as a combo, then put tranny on new block and reinstall as a combo - but you'd definitely have to let the front end down to get it out. A load balancer is very helpful as well for the lift. I've always taken tranny/motor out as a combo - I just find it easier than trying to wrestle that tranny under the car, and with only ramps, you don't have much wrestle room.

Jack stands are only $10 a pair - a set with stands and a jack can be had for $29 at Walmart - I've done it all with that $29 set - it doesn't lift high, but it does the trick.

If you leave tranny connected for the pull, be sure to plug the rear seal when drive shaft removed (a small Tylenol/Advill bottle works great - remove cap and stick it in bottom side out - the bottle hole fits around the output shaft and the bottle fills the seal). Jack rear of car before d/s removal to keep tranny fluid in the tranny.

You may have to remove water pump as well to get clearance for the pull. And definitely have a helper to guide block out of bay without smashing front - it's sometimes tricky to get block lifted high enough to clear front of car (when it's not on ramps).

Headers - they'll probably have to come off - they are a tight fit - look at how close they are to heater box.

Vacuum - rubber lines are fine - but be careful with the hardlines that go into the wiring harnesses and into the dash - those would be a pain to replace.

Hope any of that helps.

 

Just set the AC off to the side. You don't need to disconnect the lines.

I've done headers-on twice, transmission/engine together twice.