Spark Plugs
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From: Red Lion, PA
Car: 91 Camaro RS, 99 Camaro Z28
Engine: L03, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, T56
Axle/Gears: bunch of 10 bolts how scary is that
Spark Plugs
Why isnt there a spark plug FAQ or something aloung those lines yet?
Theres so many different types of heat ratings, brands, electrode materials, insulators.
Whats the best?
I am running 8.8 accels and a MSD6AL system in an engine making 400FWHP and 458FWTQ. What do you guys recomend?
Think we could list some spark plugs with there advantages or disadvantages and maybe make it a sticky?
Theres so many different types of heat ratings, brands, electrode materials, insulators.
Whats the best?
I am running 8.8 accels and a MSD6AL system in an engine making 400FWHP and 458FWTQ. What do you guys recomend?
Think we could list some spark plugs with there advantages or disadvantages and maybe make it a sticky?
The probable reason that there isn't a FAQ is that there are so many variables, just as you describe, and reasons for all those variables. Compresion pressure (static CR, VE, altitude, boost, and cam profile all affect actual pressure), chamber design, operating temperature, fuel selection, timing, gap position, and several other factors affect what works best in any given engine. There is no one "best" plug for any given combination. The condition of your old plugs may be one of the best indicators of what to do if you're having problems.
You will find lots of posts on what NOT to do, however. Unless you have empirical data suggesting otherwise, avoid the "multi-gap" plugs like "V-Power", "SplitFire", Bosch +4", and all their variants. Using exotic metal electrodes may not hurt, but may not be necessary or might be overkill in an engine without SFI and individual cylinder ignition timings. Most of our old batch-fire EFI or carbureted setups, with HEI and plain EST or a mechanical distributor, single O² or open-loop systems do just fine with plain copper cored steel resistor plugs of the correct gap and heat range. Concentrate on finding the correct heat range for your application, them find the best gap for your operating conditions. Many times, you'll find the factory did enough homework to get it pretty close. You aren't likely to find another 10HP of 5 MPG by changing to a different style plug, unless your's are already the wrong type.
You will find lots of posts on what NOT to do, however. Unless you have empirical data suggesting otherwise, avoid the "multi-gap" plugs like "V-Power", "SplitFire", Bosch +4", and all their variants. Using exotic metal electrodes may not hurt, but may not be necessary or might be overkill in an engine without SFI and individual cylinder ignition timings. Most of our old batch-fire EFI or carbureted setups, with HEI and plain EST or a mechanical distributor, single O² or open-loop systems do just fine with plain copper cored steel resistor plugs of the correct gap and heat range. Concentrate on finding the correct heat range for your application, them find the best gap for your operating conditions. Many times, you'll find the factory did enough homework to get it pretty close. You aren't likely to find another 10HP of 5 MPG by changing to a different style plug, unless your's are already the wrong type.
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