crankshaft clearance issue
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
crankshaft clearance issue
i just recieved my new eagle cast crank today and when i test fit it in the block right away i noticed the rear counterweight half moon thing at the back of the block, comes in contact with the block on both ends of the counterweight, only one side though. i dont think the block could be clearanced anymore cuz of how close it is to the oil pan bolt hole. also this counterweight contacts the oil pan and i cant even align the holes for bolting down the oil pan. my crankshaft i pulled out of the motor spun just fine so im guessing the crank just needs to be ground down.
i wanted to get your guys opinions though first.
i wanted to get your guys opinions though first.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
yes. howeveri think i discovered the issue, i dropped the new crank into a engine with .010 over bearings. of coarse the damn thing sit down deep enough, like a good 1/8" gap between the crank and the bottom of the bearing. im sure this will fix some of the issue, however do you think this is the only issue? have you heard of this before? where one stroker crank fits, and the other wont?
ill buy correct bearings tomorrow and see how it fits, in the meantime, lets here what u have to say .
ill buy correct bearings tomorrow and see how it fits, in the meantime, lets here what u have to say .
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Is it the right crank? I mean 1 piece seal crank in a 1 piece block? If the crank is std/std, you need to use std. bearings. Only use the -.010" if the crank is 10 under.
Sounds like you need to have an engine builder finish your project for you.
Sounds like you need to have an engine builder finish your project for you.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
thanks for that last comment but no thanks, im learning on my own. yes of coarse its a one peice in a one piece block.
yes its a std crank. and after my first post here, when i went out and looked, thats when i discovered the crank i pulled out had .010 inscribed on it, as well when i pulled the bearings just now it was printed as well. now my question is of coarse, once i have the correct bearings in, do u think i will still have this issue?
yes its a std crank. and after my first post here, when i went out and looked, thats when i discovered the crank i pulled out had .010 inscribed on it, as well when i pulled the bearings just now it was printed as well. now my question is of coarse, once i have the correct bearings in, do u think i will still have this issue?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
That's the whole idea behind doing a mock up assembly. To be sure there's clearance. There are no guarantees, you have to find out for yourself by testing it.
I tried my Eagle cast crank in 3 different blocks, just to see whuts up. On one block there was clearance, then on the other two it hit. But it hit in a different spot on each different block.
It's not a problem with the crank, it's the block that needs clearancing.
The good news is in a lot of places, like the oil pan rails, you can do it with a file if you don't have a grinder.
Sometimes strokers need oil pan mods too. Some guys get a new pan, but I've read that guys will clearance it themselves by denting it with a ball peen.
I tried my Eagle cast crank in 3 different blocks, just to see whuts up. On one block there was clearance, then on the other two it hit. But it hit in a different spot on each different block.
It's not a problem with the crank, it's the block that needs clearancing.
The good news is in a lot of places, like the oil pan rails, you can do it with a file if you don't have a grinder.
Sometimes strokers need oil pan mods too. Some guys get a new pan, but I've read that guys will clearance it themselves by denting it with a ball peen.
Last edited by Streetiron85; Dec 28, 2005 at 10:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,494
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
haha that was what i was thinking, ball peen hammer. well i guess ill check after tomorrow with the new bearings. if it still hits, i guess ill get filing on the block and pan haha.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Another suggestion:
Get some used std bearings from a machine shop. They have piles of em in the trash.
You will trash a set of new bearings by doing a bunch of trial fits.
You aren't even supposed to touch the surface of a new bearing when you install it. And checking to see that the crank spins is just the first of several preassembly steps.
Get some used std bearings from a machine shop. They have piles of em in the trash.
You will trash a set of new bearings by doing a bunch of trial fits.
You aren't even supposed to touch the surface of a new bearing when you install it. And checking to see that the crank spins is just the first of several preassembly steps.
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