I am thinking of taking the chance and installing a mild cam in my LG4 - Something around 220's duration @50 lift.

Anyway, What tools do I need? I just have a few wrenches and sockets at this time - I need more tools anyway, so I don't have a problem if I have to buy some pullers, or some thing else.

I know I have to remove the intake, dist, water pump and such. But when I get to the timing chain cover, is there anything I have to look out for? Do I have to remove the oil pan or what not?

I think I need pullers to remove the harmonic balancer, and the bottom timing chain sprocket- Any issues there that need to be addressed? How about installing them? Do I put them on with a hammer?

I'm guessing that I line up the dots on the two timing chain gears, - but then I heard that it will be 180 out?

Anything else That I need for this project as far as parts that need to be replaced? Should I changed the valve springs at this time? and is that a hard project?

I'm not looking to make a racing car or anything like that, just hopefully spice up the 305 that is in it right now.


At this time my setup is, 305 (approx 100k on it) runs , drives and starts good.

3.73 gears- edelbrock performer, holley vacuum secondary, non cc HEI. The previous owners put a new cam in it, but it was a stock replacement cam. Is this project best left as it is, or should I risk the cam swap? I hate to mess it up so the car never runs again.

 

balance puller AND installer, gear puller. once you have the balancer off you just have to drop the pan slightly and remove a few bolts to get the cover off. some long bolts to screw into the end of the cam are nice to have to hold onto it. you dont have pull the intake (if i remember correctly) if you have a lifter installer that can slide through the wholes in the head for the pushrods. its a pretty easy job. although can be slightly annoying with the engine in the car. just move the a/c condenser and radiator out of the way and remove the supports behind them.

 

So there is enough room to pull the cam out without lifting engine? I mean I have no problem removing the radiator, and the AC is already gone.

Another thing is about the Cam bearings, Do they fall out easy when taking out and putting in the cam?

As far as dropping the pan, just loosen up the few front bolts on the oil pan? Does this mess up the oild pan gasket?

 

use a hammer to massage the brace infront of the radiator out of the way. I took out all the oil pan bolts except the back four and let the pan hinge on that. Goto autozone they have a tool loan program that is free, just need a deposit. I never saw a lifter removal tool where you don't have to remove the intake. I'd like to see a pic or where I can get one.

 

why not just remove the 10mm bolts and set them aside? it's alot easier that way.

no the cam bearings dont just pop out, but go slow installing and removing the cam as to not nick them

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 86Z
[B]why not just remove the 10mm bolts and set them aside? it's alot easier that way.

there's bolts holding them in? I think they're spot welded, maybe I'll check that out tomorrow

 

there are bolts, 1 on each end

 

220 is HUGE for an LG4. I'd rethink that.

 

I would use an Edelbrock performer cam it’s a good street cam and sounds great with headers and good mufflers.

 

Old technology. There's smaller grinds that will produce more power and end up being overall better for the combo.

Something like the Comp Cams Xe256h or the 262h from their Xtreme Energy grinds would be perfect. Not to mention about all you can fit under the factory lift limits.

 

Speaking of factory lift limint- I am assuming that your talking about springs. Could it be possible to change the cam without worrying about the old springs valve floating? I don't intend on revving it up past 5000 anyhow.

The engine has 100 thousand miles on it, maybe I should not do this, or do 305's have a long life span? I would hate to make the change only the have the motor go out of it next month. I guess I could just bask in all that was 1982?

Right now it has 30 lbs oils pressure at idle (warm)
carries 19 in of vacuum
and the compression check varies less than 5 lbs per cylinder.

it does burn a little oil on number 3 - maybe valve seals, i don't know.

 

No. The factory lift limit is the clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the valve guide boss. No valve spring alone will solve this. Only milling down the guide boss will achieve this.

New valve springs would be very much so advised. Factory springs are crap and should not be used in anything even half related to performance engines. Get the set of springs that the cam manufacturer recommends for that particular cam.

Changing vavle stem seals to the positive type would be a very wise move while the valve springs are off anyway for a swap.

 

I know at least on the older heads the max lift is .500”before the retainer hits the valve guide but I would not run more then 470 or so lift with out screw in studs and even with screw in studs it is a better to go with a low lift high duration cam on a stock head. Small motors like a wide LSA so I would use something with a 112-114 LSA usually a motor with a wide LSA 112-114 will have a wide power band and rev higher and a cam with the same profile but a tighter LSA something like a 106 to 108 will have a lower more narrow power band but usually make more power in the RPM range but is better suited for racing and will have lower vacuum and lower cylinder pressure. Comp cams have a 110 LSA good for street strip but I would go with a crane or a summit

 

The old 70s L-82 cam runs great in a 305. Noticeable idle, great mid-range torque, and lots of HP. 224/224 @ .050, .450/.461 lift, 115* LCA. Had one in my van for a while. They idle with about 12in/hg vacuum at 700 RPM in Drive. With a vacuum can your brakes will work fine. It is about as big a cam as I would run on the stock torque converter and ECM.