Basically the subject says it all. I got a holley voodoo lunati cam for christmas, the specs are listed below:

valve lift: 489in 504ex
duration @ .050: 227in 233ex
lobe seperation: 110

the cam is a hydraulic flat tappet by the way, im just trying to see if it will work alright with my summit 2000 stall converter (i think). any help would be appreciated. thanks everyone.

 

It will work, but not optimally. I'd go 2800 MINIMUM stall. 3000 would be better. Try to steer away from the Summit type "budget" converters. They're super inefficient.

 

well, i bought it kind of recently so im not all about switching that any time soon....... however i'm not about switching the cam until i have a set of heads, and the TPIS base and runners...... which is like 2000 dollars away lol. thanks for the response though. How do you think a 2000, or 1900 stall (which im now being told that it is), would effect how the car runs? or the overall lifetime of everything in the car.

 

So once you save up for all that stuff, save up an extra bit and get a converter to match the engine combo.

 

if you do much racing off a dead stop you're going to really dislike that cam with that converter. you're deffinitly going to want around 2800-3000. the difference will be .2-.3 just in the 60' time alone assuming it hooks.

 

gotcha, thanks for the help guys!

 

Thats not really much of a FI cam either.

 

110 lobe separation oh wait thats the same cam i have...ill tell you how hard of a time we have tuning when the motor goes in

 

blackgold84 has that cam as well, and i'm buying it pretty soon. Any tips or info is appreciated

 

See? this FI cam crap has gotten me so confused...... i didnt think it mattered what cam you put in a car as long as you tune it, FI or not..... ugh...... you other guys say your using this cam? is it on a TPI system like mine??? is there anyone that has used a cam like mine on a TPI that knows how it will run? let me know... thanks

 

the LSA is too short, the STOCK computer won't like it. If you tune the chip, then it doesn't matter what cam you have in it.

 

my friend just scored an '87 bird thats pretty clean and runs decent for what it is. We were discussing getting a little better performance out of it by swapping the old q-jet for like a 650 holley DP, aluminum intake manifold and disconnect the computer source from the distributor so we can "manually" tune it. Will this affect anything other than the SES light will be on?

 

may want to start your own thread, as your question is totally off of this threads...

PS. don't bother avoiding the cc-qjet and dizzy, they don't slow the car down. you can't just disco the cc-dist, you need one with normal vacuum advance, an old school one. if you swap out the carb and dist, you'll also have problems with the tranny not knowing when to lockup the torque convertor.... I think theres a sticky about this in the carb forum, or there should be,,,

 

so if i tune the chip in my computer, the cam will work ok??

also what is the LSA??

 

LSA - lobe seperation angle. you mentioned it in your first post.

 

Yeah, well the lobe seperation being 110, is the same thing as the cam i have in there right now...... so why would it be any different? (too short)

 

The lobe separation angle (LSA) is the distance measure in degrees between the intake lobe centerline, and the exhaust lobe centerline. The lower this number is, the more overlap you have (amount of time both valves are open simultaneously during the compression stroke). The higher it is, the less overlap the cam has.

Cams with a 112 LSA or higher are usually a little easier to tune because they pull more vaccum at idle. However, there is no reasion why you can't run a 110 or 108 LSA cam in a fuel injection setup.

As I am sure you already know, you will need some significant prom tuning with that cam.

That cam probably peaks near the 5800-6200 RPM range, correct? Thats too much duration for a long tube runner intake, even an aftermarket setup like you are considering. Even with aftermarket parts, a TPI setup will not breathe well much past 5000 or 5200 RPM.

It would work better with an intake that has shorter runners, such as a StealthRam ($550 or so from Summit), MiniRam, or even a SuperRam. You may want to consider looking into these. If you want to stick with a long tube runner setup, I would suggest you go with a smaller cam. You can make it work, but you would have better results with less duration.

As far as the converter goes, I don't have much experience with them. I've always been partial to manual trannys....

If you contact the cam manufacturer and let them know what cam you are using, and some engine/vehicle specs, they can suggest a converter for you.

 

i would get na intake, ie stealth ram , to go with the cam, then later get heads.

 

If any of you guys are interested on reading up on camshaft theory, I would highly recommend the book "How To Build and Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Camshafts and Valvetrains" by David Vizard. Its an excellent read, I have a copy as of recently. My wife bought it for me for Christmas...

 

Hey, thanks a lot man... would you suggest for me to just stick with the cam im running if i want to stay with the long tube runner setup? like what if i just got the TPIS base and runners, and a nice set of heads? how much power do you think i'd be making with the cam im running right now? also what would be the limit on duration, and valve lift on a long tube runner setup? or what would you suggest? thanks!

current cam:
hydraulic flat tappet
valve lift: .422in .444ex
lobe centers: 107in 117ex
.050 duration: 204in 214ex

i guess i was wrong about the lobe centers being the same, the one im running isnt 110, its 107in 117ex :-x

 

basically i only got the cam b/c of the TPI shootout article on the sticky's on the TPI forums, it said they took a 383, packed a 520 lift, 230 duration cam in there, and threw the stock TPI on it, and the car made 400hp, and 500 torque...... this seemed pretty sweet in my mind, so i guess i was trying to replicate that. i just wanted to know if anyone else has tried this.

heres the original post: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=273727

 

yes that should work, but, if you get another intake, you'll make more hp with less torque, besides 500 lbs of torque will be hard to hook up. but if that is what ya want then build it

 

try this out (THE HERD Torque Converter Upgrade)pretty useful do a search and it will come up.

 

thanks a lot, that was helpful

 

Just glad I could help, good luck!!!!!

 

thanks a lot, ill need it... i just got a code 36 today arg...