Have any of you guys tried it and how did it perform. Seems like a great no hastle choice for a top end. Its priced right also. This is just for my curiousity.

TFS-K314-500-450 is the part number. Summit has it for $1750

Comes with all but intake and push rods. It does include a length checker to make your work easier.

 

wow never heard of this befor ebut sounds like something i may seriously want to look into! but what about intake manifolds? i would assume something like an lt1 intake would be pretty close to a single plane (without converting a carb intake of course) but is it a certerbolt intake manifold? it says in the notes that the heads dont work with a centerbolt intake but ive never heard of that before...

 

What shortblock do you plan on putting this onto? hp will vary depending on the rest of your setup. Don't be disappointed if it makes less power on your car.

The heads will not work with later style manifolds. GM changed the angle of the center intake holes in the heads.


Second, that cam is pretty big. It borders on the high side of what I consider streetable. You will need a good set of headers (preferrably longtubes) and at least a 3200 stall converter. Fuel injection will require a good deal of tuning to get it right.

 

lol i had a brief moment of stupidity earlier and forgot about the 2 different intake bolt patterns.

the setup would have gone on a stock L98 bottom end with a miniram or lt1 style intake. but the intake bolt pattern limits me so i guess not.

 

Intake bolt pattern is least of your worries. You can always change that

 

I think you'd be better off with either a set of Vortecs or if you have the $$$ a set of aluminum heads. Dart Pro 1's or AFR's, depending on what you want to do with the car. The heads that come in that kit aren't the greatest and the cam is way too big. Just a bad combination, especially if youre going to put a TPI or LT1 intake on it. Stick with a cam in the mid to high 220's duration wise and 110 or 112 lsa. The cam I put in most of my customers 383's for weekend street/strip motors is a custom grind but very similar to Comp's 236/242. That's for a weekend motor, not a daily. I would go with something smaller on a daily driver especially since you'll be putting it in a 350.

 

So what makes trick flow's bad heads. I love my dart Pro 1's but they are also the only ones i've ever had. I don't know if i'm clearing 500 or not. The trick flow cam is big but in a 383 with the 112 lsa is should be drivable for the weekends and provide that radical sound that makes us all love our hobbie. I'm not a racer so as long as it sounds wicked and gives me more power than I can use on the street i'm cool with it.


But about Trick Flow heads are they good or bad? They have smaller ports and valves than mine but some say thats good for velosity to make power where you can use it. IMHO I think this combo would be great given its so complete. Put it on a 383 with a victor jr. like they did, use the included length checker and order your push rods and your off and running. Remember i'm talking street play/show/cruise/race for fun use...in that order. Anyone agree with me?

 

oops, already said.........

 

this is interesting and probably a good deal compared to most kits I see, listed as a 500hp kit

http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...p;x=35&y=12

TFS-K314-500-450 is the part number. Summit has it for $1750

I find this kits info mis-leading in that they don,t go into the short block requirements NECESSARY to make the combo work
(youll need something like a 350-406 10.5:1 cpr shortblock)
Im running a set of TRICKFLOW heads on my 11:1 cpr 383 and Im making just under 500hp (N/A)( before the nitrous) but thats because I sellected to build an engine with a cam designed to maximize the potential of the 200hp nitrous system Im running, not the (N/A) results, theres nothing wrong with those TRICKFLOW HEADS that a mild port and bowl cleanup won,t fix, infact after that minimal work the heads slighly outflowed the 195cc AFR heads out of the box flow figures

Ive built several 383-406 sbc engines using

CROWERS #00471 hydrolic roller cam

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec...=00471&x=28&y=4

and CRANES

# 118551 solid roller cams

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

with 10.5-11:1 cpr that exceeded 500 N/A hp

they require a 3.73-4.56 rear gear and a 3000rpm stall converter, plus other mods to work correctly

theres many other combos that will get you a 500hp sbc, and you don,t necessarily need a roller cam or those cylinder heads either, BRODIX,AFR,DART PRO 1 and several hundred cams can get you there

example

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article85/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article09/A9-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...e14/A14-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article94/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...e16/A16-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article31/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles.htm then look in / SB Chevy Articles/AFR Article Archive

 

just some info youll need to make an informed choice

a big block chevy CAN be assembled from readily available parts that weights close to or even less than a small block using expensive options like an aluminum block and heads,intake,water pump, etc.......but lets look at the more comon style combo with an IRON block and aluminum heads, intake, water pump. youll be about 80lbs-90lbs heavier than an iron small block combo, but what do you gain for that extra weight?
first you gain much better flowing heads,larger stronger rotateing assembly and potentially at least a larger displacement, and better engine cooling, a wider head gasket seal area between the cylinders, and generally significantly more hp at the rear wheels if both engines are built to a similar hp per cubic inch level of power.
lets look at that!
lets assume your sbc corvette weights 3500 lbs and has a 383 stroker based on the comon 350 block, producing 470hp
a similar big block stroker would be a 496, this gives you a 113 more cubic inches, if both engines make about the same 1.23 hp per cubic inch that small block makes the big block will make about 608hp but the car would weight aproximately 120 lbs more, yet the small block with 470hp is pushing 7.44 lbs for each hp, the big block combo even thought its 120 lbs heavier(engine plus accessories) has only 5.95 lbs per pound to accellerate...........approximately a 20% advantage, now both engines can be made larger, or more powerfull but the ratio and potential advantages only get slanted even more in the bbc favor

info/examples

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article69/A-P1.jpg

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article73/A-P1.jpg

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article71/A-P1.jpg

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article76/A-P1.jpg

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article52/A-P1.jpg

 

Yea I stand by Grumpyvette. Nothing wrong with trick flow heads at all. Mine have a little bit of work (pretty much just a clean up) and flow a corrected 264cfm at .500.

 

Wow, this has gone way off in left field comparing small blocks to big blocks and hp to weight ratio's. No offence but I was just pointing out a potentially good combo for a low budget stroker build to get a claimed 500hp.

As far as them not giving details about the short block they used...if you go to trick flows web page they tell you exactly what they used.

http://www.trickflow.com/product/eng...ginesspecs.asp


You can even look at the cam part# and look at the cam card.

Its all about the research. There are a million ways to make our cars go fast but this is potentially an OK way to do it for cheap with minimal need for asprin along the way.

Hey this is just my .02

 

Lets say I put this kit on a 388 with 11:1 comp team-g intake and a 750cfm holly hp 4150 carb would I be close to 550hp?
(Ive been checkin out this set up for a while hopefully be on by this time next year)

 

Depends on how the well the shortblock is put togehter. I would think closer to 500 at the flywheel if you get the right combo.

Closest I have done to that setup was a 5.7" 383, Eagle steel crank and rods, forged pistons, metric ring pack, 11:1, AFR CNC 195's, Comp 236/242, Air Gap intake and a worked 650. Block was square and zero decked. Ran on 85% pump/15% VP Red fuel mix and made 515hp at the flywheel.

 

What should I run with the motor I said with a 150NX shot, 4.10 gears in a 3300lbs. car?

 

11:1 n/a built motor + 150 = boom. Build it for the jug or build it n/a. Don't do both.

 

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JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines


the lower three are mandatory

 

I sure hope all the guys running 12.5+ compression and 250hp+ nos systems dont read this LOL.

Just about anything is possible so long as you have fuel and timing in check. And yes it comes down to the combination.

 

I've been running a 500+ shot on my 11:1 406 for years and years,,, and years. It all comes down to whether or not you know what you're doing with the stuff.

 

A 500 shot? seriously? I was half azz reading through this post when I saw this? Can I ask about more info on your setup, I am not calling BS. I am just curious. Thanks.

 

that sounds like a very stout streetable combo. I am running the same cam on my 406 with protopline heads.

 

And I'm sure that their motors were built with nitrous in mind. Cam design, ring package/gaps etc. I didn't say it couldn't be done, but judging from the questions in the post and the skill level of the guy that started the thread, it wouldn't be a good idea. That's all.

 

Double stacked 150 or 175 first stage (depending on the track) Cheater and 350 Big Shot second stage plates – single button shifter ****, micro switches on the shifter (150-first gear and 350 – second and third or 150/500 depending on how I toggle the solenoids), micro drilled jets, separate fuel pump and regulator, two stage timing retard, 2618 pistons (.220 top land, 1/8” rings, .180 secondary land), 4340 rods, and 4340 crank.

Ran a double stacked 125 / 250 Cheater plates on 10:1 TRW forged pistons, 5.565” “stock” rods (prepped with ARP bolts), and a 10/10 stock crank (similar electronics) for about 8 years averaging two ten pound bottle a week.

1st experience with the juice was back in 1979 - put a Marvin Miller system on my 4-cylinder Chevy Monza and was hooked on the stuff when I blew the doors off a 1980 Corvette (which were only running high 15s back then). Of course that was considered seriously cheating back then,,,,, now you just about have to have the stuff to make sure you’re not the one cheated.