Toppping off motor and have noticed (large gap) where intake meets heads, Intake is EDEL#7516 rpm a/g and the heads are the G.M. fastburns #12464298 and the block is a #638 4-bolt I have tried 1/16 & even .120/ 1/8 intake gaskets and still there is a gap w/the cork lifter valley gaskets but not quite as big w/the rubber ones, shouldn't it be somewhat snug? I don't want any damage to occur trying to make it fit (I:E) hammer LOL, or drawing it down too tight . Can I make a make a slim piece of steel matching pattern of above gaskets to make this all go away? Or should I go a totally different way? Maybe two (2) gaskets per side one 1/16 and a 1/8? What would be the down side of either of my remedies? Do I need to modify area on block where the bottom of intake hits the valley gaskets? Pretty sure I can't send parts back as I got an unreal deal on all the new parts, any suggs would be appreciated, anyone had same problem before?

Maybe I'm not as plain as I should be in explaining my gap is NOT at the lifter galley it IS where the Intake is supposed to meet the head, I've had occasion to help build quite a few sprint motors and have not ever had this come up before, usually everything sits right down on the intake to head gasket and then basically throw the bolts to it all done end of story. It's almost as if the block had been decked too much thus wider gap at intake/head but it hasn't been decked.

 

As long as you get a seal it shouldnt matter. It just prevents oil from seeping out. Just use a good bead of RTV to fill in the seam. I think the main concern is making sure your ports line up ok with the intake gaskets.

 

Shaggy, I've found w/other motors I've built that being too generous w/the RTV can make some serious oil flow probs with restriction among other, I always try to use as little of the stuff as possible, it's great stuff in moderation. Thanks for the reply

 

Im unsure of the size of the gap your speaking of. Most people will suggest to toss out the china wall gaskets and use a nice thick bead which ends up being from an 1/8 inch to a 1/4 inch bead. I mean does it still leave a gap even without the china wall gaskets not allowing it to seal the intake gaskets? Im just trying to understand the problem. Im assuming the china wall is hitting not allowing the intake to rest on the intake gaskets. If its still hitting the china wall without the front and rear gasket then I guess you have a more serious problem and should look for a different intake or try doubling up on intake gaskets.

 

Never heard that one afore, but yes that is what's happening, w/the china walls gone I may be able to double up the intake gaskets, is there any problem doing this?Besides the gaskets not matching up perfectly under the intake where I can't see'em.

 

Your problem is that your trying to use the china wall gaskets. Thats your first mistake. Just run a large bead of silicone on both the front and rear china walls. THis will work much better and seal much better for you.

 

I dont see a problem since half the members on this board and a few other boards I frequent dont use the china wall gaskets but rather use a bead of RTV.

 

Thanks for the reply I've got it all figured out, lost the china wall gasket and in place of I've used loctite 504 gasket eliminator. Works great and I've got the intake to hit the heads now, well the intake gasket at least, now for the torq seq. once again thanks.