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Engine Removal

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Old 02-25-2006, 10:49 AM
  #51  
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Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
well the one thats attached to the blown block is, well.. stripped. me and my friend jim spent a good hour trying to break the bolts free to no avail *and thats with the engine out of the car* So im pretty sure im stuck using the trucks converter
Old 02-25-2006, 11:23 AM
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
heh, you can always take off the oil pan and remove the crank with the flexplate and converter attached. Put in a new stroker crank along with a new FP and Converter
Old 02-25-2006, 08:32 PM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by 88_Import_Slaye
Put in a new stroker crank
Can't just drop a stroker crank in, there are a few other things that would need to be changed to match.
Old 02-25-2006, 09:40 PM
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I am no match for your superior knowledge is.
Old 02-25-2006, 11:29 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
If I had the funds to do so, I would make my block into a stroked 383 with a weiand 142 sitting on top of it. But.. im broke.
Old 02-26-2006, 08:14 PM
  #56  
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Car: 91 RS, 95 Z28
Engine: 305 tbi, 350 lt1
Transmission: 4l60, 4l60e
Axle/Gears: monsterous 2.73s in both
I'd go with the zz502; unfortunately, I'm also broke .
Old 02-28-2006, 01:25 PM
  #57  
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Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
woooo hooooo

Those bolts were easy as cake after a few days of going outside every day and spraying the suckers down with pb, broke free real easily.

Now im just waiting on the funds for gaskets/bolts/oil/antifreeze/insurance, and MAYBE a new cam if I have some cash to spare. Im suppose to be getting close to 700 dollars. *those items +4 new tires* I should have enough money for a cam, but im not sure. Ill guess Ill see
Old 02-28-2006, 02:03 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
I called comp cams just to see what type of cam they suggested, this is the data that I got:

12-238-2

218 intake
224 ex 50

462 lift
469 exhaust

110 lobe seperation

does that seem right?
Old 02-28-2006, 02:35 PM
  #59  
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
sounds good. Summit has the same spec camfor cheaper. Well, very close specs.
Old 03-01-2006, 05:04 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
So I got the block out of the blazer *yayyy*

Block casting number is: 3970010

"3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4"

Ill get the head casting numbers later, im lazy.

anyways, I put the torque converter onto my transmission also. I played around with it a lot *makes me further hate torque converters* and eventually it moved back further than any other times, so I think I got it in..

http://img322.imageshack.us/img322/2350/dscf13956th.jpg

does that look in place to you guys? *sorry for the big resolution, I figured it would help*

*edit*
I can just barely fit my fingers back between the trans and the TQ, and im a pretty skinny guy
Old 03-01-2006, 09:09 PM
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Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
from that pic it looks like you got it.

to ease instillation when you put the motor in, get 2 old bolts about 3 inches long that fit the motor where the trans bolts to the block at & cut the heads off where the wrench goes, then cut a slot in both of them for a screw driver where the head was at. screw them into the lowest bolt holes on the block about 3~4 full turns. it makes it much easier to line up everything on the first try. once you have the trans & motor mated together put 2 bolts in & remove the guide bolts you made & put in the regular bolts.
if you have or can use a bench grinder, round off the guide bolts a little where you cut the heads off at.

while sliding the motor in watch the converter & flex plate, you should have plenty of room between them, the converter should
be loose & turn easily once you have the trans & motor bolted together.
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