WaaX

I have the heads off, all the front accessories off, radiator out, and hood off.

I need to remove the fuel pump, and starter still.

Once I get those off, how many bolts holds the engine to the bellhousing? how many bolts are the motor mounts?

Also, if anyone has a picture of there third gen with an auto trans without an engine in the bay, that would be a most excelent reference.

Is there anything else that im missing?

ploegi

Engine to trans- 6 bolts.

Engine Mounts- One big bolt each.

Just disconnect, and plug the fuel line to the pump. Pull engine with pump in place. (otherwise, you have a nice hole for oil to come out of.....)

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

don't forget the 3 torque converter bolts that need to be removed after you pull the inspection cover under the motor. the trans won't let go unless you do remove those if you haven't already.

WaaX

ahh, yeah see, ive never pulled an engine before so yeah, thank you, I didnt think of that.

WaaX

okay so I jacked the car up and now im a little concerned, 1 bolts going to be easy to access, the other one its going to be hard, but the 3rd, yeah right. what am I suppose to do when the engine is seized?

Apeiron

Pull the engine and transmission together if you have to.

WaaX

Im looking at the space in between the flywheel and the engine. Seems like a sawzall could eat through that pretty easily. I cant get a bite on the bolts and im getting close to stripping the easy one. I'm using a 5/8ths wrench and that seems like the only size that is good enough.

I dont need the flywheel or the crankshaft of my camaro, so would cutting there would be a good easy way of doing it?

Or am I completley out of my mind.

Apeiron

Yeah you don't want to try cutting through the crank.

WaaX

alright, well after going through google I found this:

http://64.233.179.104/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a

We hit our first brick wall when attempting to remove the engine from the Bronco. Since the crankshaft had seized up, we couldn't rotate it to get at all four bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. We had to lift the engine just a hair (high enough for the oil pan to clear the front frame cross member) and slide the whole engine and converter forward until the converter cleared the tranny input shaft and bellhousing. Be sure to jack the tranny up as well to avoid putting undue pressure on the input shaft and torque converter.

Is that possible with our cars? can I just maneuver the engine foward and pull it all out at the same time while leaving the transmission there?

Apeiron

You can try, there might be enough room to move the engine forward and/or the transmission backwards.

WaaX

I dont know how I'd be able to move the transmission backwards, Ill play around with it when I get the cherry picker tomorrow.

WaaX

Correct me if im wrong, but from what im assuming, nothings really holding the torque converter to the transmission except for the input shaft.

Im just really scared of trying to pull this all as one and end up breaking my input shaft leaving me with a dead camaro again.

I dont have the tools nor the room necessary to pull the transmission along with it, nor the knowledge of anything transmission based to even want to attempt that.

So what would my best options be? Im thinking of pulling the sawzall out, buying a bunch of blades, and going after the crank. IF I do that, am I going to have to worry about my engine/trans droping on my head? I'm scared as hell being underneath my car as it is with jackstands, I just dont trust it. It doesnt look too intimidating, it seems like maybe 3 inches? a sawzall would eat through that pretty quick im asuming. The cranks not forged or anything.

This is just my first brick wall that ive hit when dealing with this engine removal. As long as I can get this block out ill be a happy boy.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The torque converter slides into the transmission front pump and bolts onto the engine flexplate.

So, yes, you can pull the engine away from the tranny (or vice versa) without unbolting the converter from the flexplate.

WaaX

Alright thanks once again five7kid, your wisdom goes beyond measure. You can delete that thread in the engine swap board if you wish. Thank you! /*** kissing

But no seriously, thank you.

WaaX

Another question:

When pulling the engine ill be using a length of chain that will go from one side of the engine to the other, held on by two headbolts.

What kind of chain do I need to buy? Aprox how much does a shortblock weigh?

WaaX

1 question:

When I undo all the bellhousing bolts, the transmission isnt going to fall on my head is it?

for the last bolt I have to be underneath the car, and that scares the **** out of me

WaaX

nevermind, dumb question.

Everything has been disconnected, 100% ready to pull it out.

All I have to do now is re-assemble my cherry picker and voila!

yay!

8Mike9

Wait, stop, have a cold one and a smoke.

You need to support the tranny, or will will come down and fall. Notive the olny thing holding the tranny up is the rear support and the engine.

You'll need to lift everything up form the motor to celar the mount.

ONce there, you need to put your floor jack with a bolock of wood under the tranny to hold it at that angle, then the engine needs to come at that angle as well.

Tough to do, I've not had to do a thirdgen that way, so I hope there's enough room. Figure you;ll have to move the engine forward a good 5 inches or so to get the TC clear of the tranny input shaft, expect some tranny fluid to start running out of the converter and make a heck of a mess.

You may hear a "thump" as well if the tranny gets too high, that would be the TA coming loose and hitting the floorboard.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

you do need to support the trans while pulling the motor, especially if you leave the converter bolted to the flex plate. a floor jack, small hydraulic bottle jack, or a scissors type screw will
work, be sure to put a piece of wood, like 4~8 inch long 2x4 on top of the jack so you don't damage the trans pan.
once you have the motor jacked up with the cherry picker, jack up on the trans jack & the motor should come out fairly easily.

i would replace the front seal in the trans while its a part.

make sure you have the converter fully seated in the trans before you drop the motor back in.
to fully seat the converter, slid it into the trans & then pick up on the snub on the front of the converter enough to support it & spin the converter while pushing it into the trans. the front of the
converter should sit back about an inch or so from the front of the bell housing.

*edit*
mike beat me to it, i type too slow & i forgot about the 4~5 quarts of tranny fluid thats going to run out.

WaaX

haha thank *** I read this before doing it. Its going to be a mess and my dad is going to kill me but thats what oil-dry and cardboard is for, right?

Ill just wait untill thursday for my friend jim to come over and help me, I would have done this tonight but now its seeming like its going to take a little bit longer than I had expected.

Thanks for clearing up my misconceptions! I greatly appreciate it.

WaaX

also, when I goto re-install the torque converter, am I going to have to fill it up with trans fluid?

Gumby

nope, just make sure and get it locked in the trans pump right. takes about 30 tries to get it the first time. Ya think its in, but its not, till the TQ set in deep in the bell.


long as you don't have the car jackup up to high, I find it easier to install the trans on your back. get you and it under the car, then slid it up your chest and lift.

had it down to 5-10 mins at one time with a leaky TQ drain hole. Took it in and out about 90 times, alone.

some TQ will have one of the bolts holes tapped deep for a drain, and ya need the right bolt to seal. Why ya don't see em very often, people have trouble.

WaaX

It was a LOT easier than I thought, I didnt have much trouble at all.

I did it all by myself in about an hour and a half

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9697/dscf13739yr.jpg

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6497/dscf13797ab.jpg



*edit*

I didnt have any trans fluid leak, only a little drip here and there. It was mostly antifreeze that I had pouring out of the block that I had to deal with.

WaaX

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/3104/dscf13750ex.jpg

thats the hole I put through the pan. Maybe tomorrow ill have some fun and take the pan off and snap a few photos.

Gumby

you installed it like that too???



best be 100% postive you got the TQ in the trans pump right.

Ohhh the horror of doing a job twice.

sully91rs

Thats ruff. What engine is that (lo3, l98)?

WaaX

No, I havent installed anything yet on my camaro.

I still have to rip the doner engine out *hopefully tomorrow*

It was a goodwrench 350.

JB22

wow that thing looks ugly!

Pulling my 305 out Saturday. We'll see how bad that looks...

WaaX

F'ING MOTHER F'ING G*D DA** MO**** FU****


I HATE TORQUE CONVERTERS.

The one on the blazer, with the oil filter off, is easily accessable, BUT THERE IS NO WAY I can break it free, me with a socket+breaker bar +friend with socket and breaker bar at crank = negative.

I tried putting the truck into drive but then I forgot that since the engine has been dissasembled its basically in neutral, so yeah. Any tips on removing those pesky TQ bolts?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Turn the bolt counter-clockwise as you look at it from the head side. . .

Seriously,
6-point socket and more bar (aka "pipe on breaker bar").

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

State of engine disassembly has nothing to do with an automatic transmission holding the engine still.

88_Import_Slaye

They have a tool that you use to hold the flexplate. Actually, it's used to turn the flex plate while the car is together so u can undo the converter bolts. Go rent it at the part store dude.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

use a good 6 point boxed end wrench, hold the boxed end of the wrench on the bolt & give the wrench a whack with a hammer.

WaaX

by any chance do you know the name of that tool?

I dont want to sound like a complete idiot while at the parts store, only a partial one.

88_Import_Slaye

Have you stood in a part store and watched ppl come in and ask for things? They all sound like idiots man, it's the part of learning people are afraid of hehe.

anyway, not sure of the name but it looks like C with a tooth at each end and there is a hinge in the middle (kinda)

Just tell them you need "The tool that you use to turn the flexplate".

88_Import_Slaye

There is this
http://www.nationalwholesaletools.co...OD&ProdID=8272

Not what I was talking about, but they mention a "spinner tool" which might be what i'm talking about. Cant seem to find a picture anywhere.

88_Import_Slaye

here we go!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle...spagenameZWDVW

ebay to the rescue, hehe.

JB22

Nice

WaaX

ah, alright my friend jim works at murreys and I asked him about it and hell get ahold of one for me.

Thank you

88_Import_Slaye

Good luck man. You might need 2 pipes, one to put on the end of the "tool" and another to go on the end of your breaker bar (as stated above) That should be sufficient to get those bolts off. Also try some WD-40 or PB Blaster or liquid wrench stuff.

BTW: I've never seen a converter come out of a car as rusted looking as yours. Unless your getting a new one, you might want to put some paint on that bad boy.

WaaX

Honestly, I'm just going to use the converter out of the blazer, I dont even know what stall my converter is as it is so It wouldnt hurt using the blazers I would imagine.

88_Import_Slaye

if it's stock it is going to be 1600-1800 stall. Blazer is most likley the same.

If you can afford it, get a 2200 stall, it would be a brand new unit and would give some added performance. $175 you can get one from bowtie overdrives.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=261

Gumby

if ya got a lath, a mig welder, a pressure checker and a balancer.....

I can tell ya how to turn it into a hi stall TQ

WaaX

My friend matt works at a machine shop, he would probably be more than capable of doing the work for me.

*scratch that*
He's already a under suspicion for government work, so he wouldnt be able to do it. Oh well

8Mike9

Please elaborate...

88_Import_Slaye

Too complicated, not worth the time and effort unless you are incredibly skilled using a lathe (and programming it if it's CNC). Just go buy a new one.

You can buy a kit that has all of the equipment to take apart cores and build new converters. It's $15-$30k (cant remember which).

8Mike9

Well,

I have a 9x21 Logan, a 22x6ft Hendy, have a 9x42 SB mill, have 3 Migs, 1 Tig and 2 arc welders.

I may not be "incredibly skilled", but who really cares? All I want to know is what needs to be done.

Apeiron

Drain the converter, stick it on the lathe, cut the case open, change out the turbine and stator, weld the case shut, and balance it.

Gumby

Not really, I worked ina TQ shop and it was scary how simple it is.
1950s equipment can do it all just fine.

but yea I wouldn't do it, I was just having fun. But its so scary simple, they don't do anything but add or remove some thin washers. Rarley, very rarley anything is wrong with em. buy em for $3-4, cut it open, wash it out, make sure fine tabs are tight, weld it, psi check it, balance it, paint it, slap $100+ price tag on it.

I cut, welded and psi checked em.

only sucky part is cutting them. ya cut slow and keep wacking it with a hammer to make it split. Lots of time the split and throws trans fluid everywhere, or they jump off balace and slam into the wall with a big thud.

even finger nail deep groves on tq front shat, was just polished out with emery cloth on the lathe. Trans seal are made with this in mind, long as its smooth, they wont leak.

8Mike9

Is there any rhyme to reason to know what stall you wind up with?