ok read all of this and then try to help me..

i recently pulled the stock 305 and my friend rebuilt a 355 i have 58cc heads on it he put new rings in it, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing chain gasket. and you get the picture

well we dropped it in the maro...put the starter on bolted it up..
weve had it started several times.. but its locked up a couple staters and the new one i got the motor snapped the nose on it...i replaced with an old nose and that seemed to toughen the starter... well its turns reall good but the starter solenoid will get stuck i n the flywheel at certain points...and sometimes the engine will even rotate the opposite direction to get the solenoid out.. so i shimmed it and it grinds going in and everything so we decided its not shimming....i decided to take the plugs out and turn it...the engine turns great like this but once the plugs are in the problems start.... ideas...well i think it could be the flywheel cause it is getting stuck in certain spots.. we are going to pull the motor out and try new flywheel


i asked the mechanic at my work if he new he said i have a bad motor ..i even checked the compression with my SNAP-ON compression tester...195 psi (thats alot) yes i did it right

could it be a bad bearing a bad motor or what...
man i need help

this engine iis hard to turn by hand in some spots

 

I'm assuming that you used flat-top pistons, which with the crappy 305 58cc heads, puts your compression between 11.5:1 and 12:1...that's way too high for a stock starter...or pump gas, if you do get it running it will detonate on any load you put on it. Get a set of good aftermarket heads, with between 64-68cc, or a set of vortec heads, and it will fix your problem.

 

Take a close look at the block casting when you remove the starter (again). Is there a bit of a void around the outer starter bolt hole? That's not an uncommon problem. That can allow poor alignment, and poor starter engagement. I've had some of those blocks, and needed to use a regular 3/8 bolt in that position instead of a starter bolt. That allows a little "steering" of the starter to prevent the poor engagement.

 

hey vader, do you think his C/R could have anything to do with it, his cranking PSI is really high, also how common is that starter bolt hole problem, and did it happen on GM goodwench blocks...I've been having some starter issues myself, but I just attributed them to a bad starter and my lazyness not to take it out until the re-build I'm planing

 

I had the same problem. Vader is right. I couldn't get the starter mounted square and it was causing it to bind.

 

pull all the plugs out of it and try to turn it over. Any hard spots then? If so you've got a problem in the bottom half.

 

now I'm courios...I need to make a note so I can take a look at that when I take everything apart

 

ok i havent check yet to late now..i will in the morning..but the cranking seems to be in one spot ...when i crank the starter just quick clicks...ill get to the same spot every time thats when it gets stuck...i know because i put a piece of tape on it...and it keeps coming to the same spot..but im confused i understand that 190 psi is 13:1 but i have four valve relief pistons..and my carb has been a big factor in this screw up the floats keep getting stuck and its just shooting out the top....but thats not my worrys i have a 650 holley. im throwing on their..weve had the car running several times...wen it idi watn to start..the car just shook like a beast..itwas nice.. but hard to start...

when the starter got stuck and the car was running my wire to the battery and the alt melted because the starter acted as a generator and pump to many volts in their...but again i need cranking power......

so should i just fix up my 283 and be done with it.... help me...


THANKS KEVIN

 

uhhhh, you can't base your compression ratio off of cranking compression test results. Those are two completely different things. My motor is only 10.25:1 but it puts out 215psi cranking. Lots of factors will change the cranking compression numbers like cam overlap, cam timing and air flow. The compression ratio is just that, a ratio. Take the swept volume of the cylinder and compare it to the volume of the cylider with the piston at TDC. Lets say the CR of your motor is 12:1 with the 12 representing the volume of the cylinder at BDC and the 1 being the volume at TDC. Think of it as taking all the liquid from 12 cans of soda and cramming it all into one can. Lots of pressure

 

I have a 283 with a cam and Hump headsim thinking of switching them over to the 355.. any objections to that anyone...

give me some tips im confused

 

lol switch out your built 355 for a 283? I wouldn't do that. Take the above suggestions.

 

You have a bent connecting rod.
remove all the spark plugs. Loosen off all the rocker arms so that the valvetrain is not effecting how the crank feels as you turn it over by hand. there should be no tight spots at all as you turn over the crank by and with a wrench or socket on the crank balancer nut. With just the drag of the piston rings and crank and camshaft in their bearings the motor should turn over relitively easily and smoothly. A ny tight spot indicates a bent connecting rod.

 

well whatever the problem heads or somthing else...i want to put the heads off the 283 on the 355... what about that...idont have enuough money now to buy a high torque starter...

thanks guys ill try this stuff and post when m done