I am planning on building a 383 stroker, but I need pictures of the work that needs to be done to the block for the crank and rods to work correctly. If anyone has pictures of what they did to their 350 block prep for a 383 please post. Thanks.

 

I really don't have any pictures about what I did but I can offer a few points of interest.
Get the rotating assembly you are going to use and mock it all up in the block, don't have to install the rings. Install the cam and timing chain and spin it a few times. The main areas of contact would be:
Connecting rod and the following: cam lobes, oil pan rail, bottom of bores, oil pan, and possibly pistons (not likely though).
Connecting rods with cap screws improves clearance, but you might still have to break out the die grinder and touch up a few spots. I had to knock a little off the rods and around the oil pan rail, but nothing too bad. Also, get the rotating assembly balanced after clearancing is all done.
I might have some pictures at my home computer, I'll check tonight.

 

Okay, thanks. E-mail me those pictures if you get time.


PS I have been attacking myself trying to figure out what the comment in your signature means. The Denny's and IHOP one, what's that mean, lol.

Thanks Again,
ERIK

 

Heres a 406 but it basically gives you the idea what has to be done to a 383.

 

Awesome. I see exactly what needs to be done now. Grinding it doesn't make it any weaker? How much room should I give between the crank and the grinding point. Should there be room for it to move any?

 

.050" is probably OK but I wouldn't grind much more than .075".

 

Should I just tell my machine shop to clearance the block for a 383 for me? How much would that cost? Otherwise I could probably handle that part myself.

 

.060 is the minimum gap

 

So 0.050" or 0.075" shouldn't be my guidelines

 

Every source I see shows .050 as minimum but .060 wont hurt. Just dont go crazy.

 

Not really. Interference, however, will make it significantly weaker. Make sure you can drive at least an 0.050" feeler through any areas of concern.

 

I used .050" for clearance on everything. You should be fine if you use that. The pictures shaggy posted are way clearer than the ones I have so use those. Also, don't go too crazy with the grinding near the bottom of the cylinders because you can break into a water jacket. You shouldn't have a problem with a 383, but the larger stroker motors typically do.
You could get the shop to do it, but as you know its more $$$. Its kinda up to you. If you have the tools, I would say go for it. Just take your time.

 

A commonly-used unit of measure for clearance, is a thin tie-wrap.

 

Thank you. I think I may have the shop do it if it's not going to be too expensive. I just hope they have clearanced for 383's before.

 

This was a great post in another section (gets my vote for a sticky!)
Great info / pix of a 350 block prep for a stroker crank.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabrication/354295-clearancing-stroker-crank.html