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Finally got her running again. well.. somewhat.

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Finally got her running again. well.. somewhat.

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Old

Apr 15, 2006 | 08:57 PM

#1

Thread Starter

Member

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 125

Likes: 0

From: Connellsville, Pa

Car: 1983 Camaro z28

Engine: 5.7

Transmission: 5spd

Finally got her running again. well.. somewhat.

well tonight i finally got her started up n running without shooting fireballs out the carb (stupid timing).. and wow, i forgot how mean she sounds..

still gotta figure out how to adjust my rockers since they are makin noise, and put a timing gun on it and get it properly adjusted.. since i just guestimated and went by ear

also found out that my fuel gauge isn't working on my new to me 145mph speedo.. along with the fact that i have no sending units or gauges for the temp or oil pressure right now.. think i might go aftermarket with those though..

i'm gonna take some pics when i go over tomorrow and maybe make a quick webpage showing the progress its made... now just gotta get the body work done fast, n paint her cuase this nice weather is killing me not being able cruise around in the z..

Last edited by Dracul; Apr 15, 2006 at 11:00 PM.

Old

Apr 15, 2006 | 09:02 PM

#2

Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2005

Posts: 577

Likes: 0

From: Tolland, CT

Car: '86 Camaro SC

Nice, good to hear you've got it running. I've always used this page:Valve Adjustment Procedure</title>
<META NAME="Description" CONTENT="Century Performance Center's informative article on how to adjust the valves on most overhead valve engines.
You will learn how to correctly adjust the valves, what the adjustment means, how to do the procedure quickly to save time, and the tools required.">
<META NAME="Keywords" CONTENT="Camshaft, Tuning, Valves, Valvetrain, Valve Adjustment, Lifter, Pushrod, Rocker Arm, Feeler Gauge, Valve Lash,
Cooling Time, Hydraulic Lifter, Solid Lifter, Roller Lifter">

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<h1 align="center"><u><a name="Valve"><font face="Arial" size="4">VALVE</font></a><font size="4" face="Arial">
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE ... <font color="#FF0000">THE CORRECT WAY</font></font></u></h1>
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<td width="100%">
<dl>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Introduction" style="text-decoration: none">Introduction</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Quick Way" style="text-decoration: none">Quick Valve Adjustment</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#explanation" style="text-decoration: none">Cam Lobe Explanation</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#adjustment procedure" style="text-decoration: none">What
the Adjustment Procedure Means</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Engine "OFF"" style="text-decoration: none">Engine
"OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment Procedure</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Engine RUNNING" style="text-decoration: none">Engine
"Running" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment Procedure</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Solid Lifter Adjustment" style="text-decoration: none">Solid
Lifter Adjustment Procedure</a></font></dt>
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">►
<a href="#Closing" style="text-decoration: none">In Closing</a></font></dt>
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<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">► Feeler Gauge Set</font></dt>
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<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">► Crank Socket (or a way to easily
turn the engine)</font></dt>
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<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">► Socket Set</font></dt>
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<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">Back to The</font></dt>
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<div align="center">
<dt><a href="tech.asp"><b> <font size="2" face="Arial"> Tech Zone</font></b></a></dt>
</div>
<p align="center"> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </td>
<td width="76%" valign="top">
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: 3px ridge #A74FFF" bordercolor="#A74FFF" width="80%" id="AutoNumber1" bgcolor="#FFFFCC">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">   All
the time people
ask how to do this procedure, and it seems
that everyone they ask gives them a different answer. Let's see if I can
make this easy to understand for just about everyone. Read this entire
article to understand correct valve adjustment procedures for most
engines.</font></small></td>
</tr>
</table>
</center>
</div>
<p><font face="Arial"><b><font size="3"><a name="Introduction">Introduction</a> to Adjusting</font></b><font size="3"><b>
Solid and Hydraulic Lifters:</b></font></font></p>
<p><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    The simplest way to
adjust a hydraulic or solid lifter cam whether it is a tappet or roller
cam is described below. But FIRST, what you need to forget about is all
that information that many individuals (and books) taught you in the past. In many
cases, if interpreted wrong you could be in for more trouble than before
you tried to adjust the valves yourself. Think about things that can
affect your valve lash, you will need this bit of common sense before you
get into this, because there are other considerations besides just putting
a wrench on something and attempting to follow the cam card, or shop
manual.</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<ul>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">What type of cam are you running?
(Hydraulic, Solid, Hydraulic Roller, Solid Roller,
Mushroom Tappet)</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Are you running aluminum heads?</font><font face="Arial">
</font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Are ALL of your valvetrain parts in
proper working condition?</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Are your valve springs the correct ones
for the camshaft and operating RPM?</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">What type of driving (or racing) are
you going to be using the engine for?</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Do you have the tools and basic
knowledge required to adjust your own valves?</font></small></li>
</ul>
<p><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    The last one is quite
important. If after you read through this and are still a bit confused,
give up and have someone else do it, or have them at least walk you
through it to make sure you understand the procedure. Now, if you are
wondering what can go wrong there is a quite a few bad things that can occur:</font><font face="Arial">
</font>
</small>
<ul>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Poor running engine and low performance</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Failed smog testing (if this is a
smog-legal street driven vehicle)</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Burnt exhaust valve(s)</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Broken valvetrain components (springs,
pushrods, lifters, camshaft)</font></small><font face="Arial"> </font>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Limited lifespan of valvetrain
components</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Excessive valve guide and seat wear</font><font face="Arial">
</font>
</small>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Blown up engine</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Lose an important Race!</font></small></li>
<li><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Empty Bank Account</font></small></li>
</ul>
<p><small><font face="Arial"><font color="#800000">  </font><font color="#000000"> 
The above list, though quite simple to understand, should scare you. It
takes only a few thousandths of an inch of adjustment error to cause those
problems. Now lets' get to the actual process. I am going to simplify this
a bit, so if your valvetrain is somewhat different you will need to verify
the correct procedure for your application.</font></font></small></p>
<div align="center">
<center>
<table border="1" width="500" bgcolor="#CCFFCC" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" height="118" bordercolor="#A74FFF" style="border-collapse: collapse">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="100%" height="116">
<dl>
<dt><small><strong><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial">IMPORTANT NOTE: </font><font face="Arial">
</font> </strong></small><font face="Arial"></dt>
</center>
</font>
<div align="left">
<dt><small><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial">   Those of you
with Ford, and other engines with
"Non-Adjustable" valvetrain ... YOU MUST verify that
your machinist did his job correctly when setting the valve stem
heights, and then YOU must also verify proper pintle depth when
using Hydraulic lifters. If you switch to solid lifters it is
nearly mandatory that you convert to adjustable valvetrain (I'd
say this is mandatory in all RACING applications as well as any
application where you want to actually have control of your
valve lash setting).</font></small></dt>
</div>
</dl>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<p align="left"><b><font face="Arial">Valve Adjustment The <a name="Quick Way">Quick Way</a>:</font></b></p>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">   Ok, now to the good
stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I
made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your
firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this
procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order.
(see below)</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><strong><font face="Arial"><font color="#ff8000"><u>Intake Valve
Adjustment</u>: </font><small><font color="#0000ff">  ENGINE OFF!</font></small></font></strong></p>
<table border="0" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="73%" valign="top">
<dl>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve
lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve</font></dt>
</center>
</div>
</dl>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p align="left"><font face="Arial"><font color="#ff8000"><strong><u>Exhaust Valve
Adjustment</u>:  </strong></font><small> <font color="#0000ff"><strong>ENGINE OFF!</strong></font></small></font></p>
<p align="center"><small><font face="Arial" color="#FF0000">If you have
noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed
above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way.</font></small></p>
<table border="0" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td vAlign="top" width="73%">
<dl>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve</font></center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="2" face="Arial">with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full
valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve</font></dt>
</center>
</div>
</dl>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<p align="left"><b><font size="3" face="Arial">Need an <a name="explanation">explanation</a>? </font></b></p>
<p align="left"><font face="Arial"> <img align="left" alt="camlobe.jpg (27406 bytes)" border="0" src="images/tech/camlobe.gif" width="336" height="388"> 
<small>Well, what you have here is "opposite" valves on the
engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of <font color="#400080"><strong>1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2</strong></font><font color="#000000">.
What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order.
These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the
correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side </font> </small><font color="#000000"><small>(base
circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This
procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.</small></font> </small><font color="#000000"><small>(base
circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This
procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base
circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This
procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base
circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This
procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. </small></font> </font></p>
<div align="center">
<table border="1" width="100" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" height="71">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="center" bgColor="#ffff80" width="100%" height="15">
<p align="center"><small><strong><font face="Arial">1 
-  6</font></strong></small></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bgColor="#ffff80" width="100%" height="16">
<p align="center"><small><strong><font face="Arial">8 
-  5</font></strong></small></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bgColor="#ffff80" width="100%" height="16">
<p align="center"><small><strong><font face="Arial">4 
-  7</font></strong></small></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center" bgColor="#ffff80" width="100%" height="16">
<p align="center"><small><strong><font face="Arial">3 
-  2</font></strong></small></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">    If the lifter is anywhere other than on the
heal of the cam where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect
lash. The chart above makes sure you are on the backside of the cam lobe.
When the cylinder is at TDC, this is not often the correct location to get
the proper lash setting.</font></small></p>
<p> </p>
<p><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<h3 align="left"><small><font color="#ff8000" face="Arial">What about the actual <a name="adjustment procedure">adjustment
procedure</a> you ask?</font></small></h3>
<p align="left"><small><b><font face="Arial">Hydraulic Cams:</font></b></small></p>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">    Ok, let's get to the actual wrench turning
... how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter cam
you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and
then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn?  Well, if you did this, you more than
likely have the valves not closing all the way!</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">    The hydraulic lifter requires roughly a
.030" pintle depth setting. This means that you adjust valves by the
depth that the pintle in the lifter drops. Too tight and the valves do not
close, too loose and they rattle and do not open properly and damage the
lifter. How do you get .030"? Well, on new engines I will actually
use a dial indicator and measure the depth of travel. On an engine in the
car this is a bit different, and harder to do..</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">    Now, I have two ways that I use to adjust
hydraulic lifters. One uses the "clean" method with the engine
off and the other is the messy way with the engine running.</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<h3 align="left"><font face="Arial"><small><a name="Engine "OFF""><font color="#FF9933">Engine
"OFF"</font></a> <font color="#FF9933" face="Arial"> Hydraulic
Lifter Adjustment:</font></small></small></font></h3>
<p align="left"><font face="Arial"><small><font color="#008000">    </font><font color="#000000">Warm
the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature
(15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the
valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart
above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the
engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can
tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you
can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the
above chart)</font></small><font color="#000000"><small>. In the small and big block Chevy engines this is
the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam
Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers
spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug
the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the
nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a
consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).</small></font></font></p>
<div align="center">
<table border="1" height="85" width="500" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" bordercolor="#A74FFF" style="border-collapse: collapse">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td height="79" width="343" bgcolor="#CCFFCC">
<dl>
<div align="left">
<dt><font face="Arial"><strong>What is 1/4 turn? </strong>
<font size="2" color="#FF0000">(see image at right)</font> </font>
</div>
<div align="left">
<dt><small><font face="Arial">   Well, imagine the hands on a clock.
You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 settings as
well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your
wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to
the 6:00 position you have just made <strong>1/2 turn</strong>.
Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be<strong> 1/4
turn</strong>. </font> </small></dt>
</div>
</dl>
</td>
<td height="79" width="142">
<dl>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><b><font size="2" color="#FF0000" face="Arial">What is 1/4 Turn?</font></b></dt>
</center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font face="Arial"><a href="images/tech/wrenchturn.gif" target="_blank">
<img border="0" src="images/tech/wrenchturn_small.gif" alt="wrenchturn.gif (5756 bytes)" align="center" width="100" height="121"></a></font></dt>
</center>
</div>
<div align="center">
<center>
<dt><font size="1" color="#0000FF" face="Arial">click image to enlarge</font></dt>
</center>
</div>
</dl>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    Now, you will do this
for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way.</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial"><strong><font color="#ff0000">PRECAUTION:</font></strong> <font color="#ff0000" face="Arial"> If you have
an older high mileage engine that the lifters bleed off pressure (drain
the oil out of). You can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in
the lifters to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly
adjust the valves this way and they are still not correct, you probably
have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace
the Lifters  -= or =- adjust the valves the "HOT" method as
below.</font></font></small></p>
<p align="left"><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<h3 align="left"><font face="Arial"><small><a name="Engine RUNNING"><font color="#FF9933">Engine RUNNING</font></a>
<font color="#FF9933" face="Arial"> Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:</font></small></small></font></h3>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    Ok, so you really like
messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if
you do not properly plan ahead.</font><font face="Arial"> </font> </small></p>
<p align="left"><strong><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">Some helpful hints:</font></small></strong><font face="Arial">
</font>
<ul>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Adjust only one side of the engine at a
time.</font><font face="Arial"> </font>
</small>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms,
or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into
the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you
WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again,
especially if you screw up the first time.</font></small></li>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000080" face="Arial">Using a mechanic's stethoscope can
substantially make this procedure easier</font></small></li>
</ul>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    Adjusting hydraulic
lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as
you can tell). With the above considerations taken care of, start the
engine and loosen one of the rockers. You should hear it just start to
"clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter"
just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle
depth. Continue on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the
vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated
above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end
at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment
makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.</font></small></p>
<p align="center"><small><b><font face="Arial" color="#FF0000">NOTE:</font></b><font face="Arial">
</font> <font face="Arial" color="#FF0000"> If
you make a mess, PLEASE check your oil level once you are done.</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<p align="left"><b><font face="Arial"><a name="Solid Lifter Adjustment"><font size="3" color="#FF9933">Solid
Lifter Adjustment</font></a><font size="3" color="#FF9933" face="Arial">:</font></font></b></p>
<p align="left"><small><font color="#000000" face="Arial">    First warm the engine
to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove the
valve covers. Follow the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL
LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1
cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the
down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in
firing order" cylinder. In the small and big block Chevy engines this
is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a
Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench).</font></small></p>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial"><font color="#000000">    Now, based upon your
cam card (cam specs) you should know what the valve lash setting should
be. Let's say that your valve lash setting is .022". Get out the
.022" feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and
the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker "just" until you begin
to fell resistance. The valve lash setting should not be tight ... the
feeling should be about the same as putting a knife through a stick of
cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. Now, hopefully you are using
"positive-lock" rocker arm retention instead of
just pinched rocker nuts or Nylox. If using rocker nuts your job is done,
go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock
in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools for
this available) and then tighten the Allen screw.</font><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial"> </font> </font> </small></p>
<p align="left"><small> <strong><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial"> NOTE</font></strong><font color="#FF0000" face="Arial">: <em>In
most cases the Allen screw will make a slight "click" when it is
tight. Now, go adjust the remaining valves.</em> </font> </small></p>
<p align="left"><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></p>
<hr color="#A74FFF">
<p align="left"><strong><font face="Arial"><a name="Closing"><font color="#ff8000">Closing</font>
</a> <font color="#ff8000" face="Arial"> Remarks:</font>
</font>
</strong>
<ul>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">You can change the power band a bit when using a solid lifter
motor by varying valve lash settings. A looser lash setting increases
the low-end power of the engine where a tighter lash increases top-end
power. Also, be careful because the valve lash is the "Cooling
Time" that the valve needs on each cycle. If you have no lash you
take a chance of burning the valves.</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">Using roller rockers dramatically increases valve guide life,
increases horsepower and also maintains better valve lash settings.
Use them when you can!</font></small><font face="Arial"> </font>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">Too loose a valve lash setting can damage valve stem tips as
well as roller rocker tips, and can crack OEM stamped steel rocker
arms.</font></small><font face="Arial"> </font>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">Engine materials, engine operating RPM and valvetrain
deflection contribute to varying valve lash settings. The higher the
RPM, the cheaper the parts you use and the different types of
materials contribute to sooner need for valve lash adjustments. (By
the way, while you are in there ... test your valve spring pressures).</font></small><font face="Arial">
</font>
<li>
<p align="left"><small><font face="Arial">There is FREE horsepower when using Roller Cams ... if you
can afford it, do it. Plus, when using roller cams, you can change
cams without the need to change lifters which is mandatory with
Hydraulic or Solid "tappet" cams.</font></small></li>
</ul>
<dl>
<div align="left">
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="#Valve" style="text-decoration: none">back to top</a></font></dt>
</div>
<div align="left">
<dt><font size="1" face="Arial">  
<a href="tech.asp" style="text-decoration: none">back to Tech Zone</a></font></dt>
</div>
</dl>
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<p align="center"> </p>
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</center>
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Good luck!

Old

Apr 15, 2006 | 09:22 PM

#3

Thread Starter

Member

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 125

Likes: 0

From: Connellsville, Pa

Car: 1983 Camaro z28

Engine: 5.7

Transmission: 5spd

thanks, that was a good read and definently a new bookmark.. I think i might try the engine running method as i have the old set of valve covers and i don't care if i need to cut an access hole..

Last edited by Dracul; Apr 15, 2006 at 10:59 PM.

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