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How tight do my rocker arms need to be?

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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #1  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
How tight do my rocker arms need to be?

Someone put aftermarket 1.6 rockers on my car, and the passenger side is starting to tap (no, it not an exhaust leak). I can move the arms side to side a bit and i here a clicking noise, is that normal?...should then be just tight enough so they don't move side to side at all? Thanks.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:42 PM
  #2  
86z/92rs's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 86Z/92 RS Camaro
Engine: 357 vortec finished. need tuning
Transmission: Still works
Axle/Gears: need 3.73
Once zero valve lash is set, turn the nut another 1 1/2 turn. If you are not familiar with setting valve lash, do a search.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 04:23 PM
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AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
1/2 turn from zero lash not 1-1/2 turns.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 04:28 PM
  #4  
305q_ta86's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Or you could run the engine with the cover off and tighten each one at a time, until the ticking goes away. that's harder though. I seem to remember being told to tighten the nut 3/4 turn past zero lash, but you hear all kinds of numbers from all kinds of people.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 05:31 PM
  #5  
genob4c's Avatar
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From: Winchester, KY
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: LG4 305 Powerhouse
Transmission: Auto
Funny this should come up. I just fired up my 1st complete engine build. It was amazing to hear it actually fire up and run. See pics below. However, it is running hot exhaust on on the drivers side. It melted the paint off the headers in just a couple of minutes. A local guy said I needed to adjust the valves because it was burning to lean on that side making it hot. Does this make sense? The water temp and oil pressure are great. He gave me a valve cover drilled for rocker bolt access so I could adjust valve lash while running. Again, does this makes sense? Hot exhaust because of valve lash?

Thanks!



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Old May 1, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #6  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
but should i be able to slide the bottom back and forth?...or should they stay set in a postition and not move all all side to side?
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Old May 3, 2006 | 06:23 PM
  #7  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
does someone knwo the answer to my question directly above this?
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Old May 3, 2006 | 06:29 PM
  #8  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
they should stay still
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Old May 4, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #9  
r_wells1's Avatar
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From: DFW Area
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: vortec head/ZZ4 cam/TPIed 350+.040
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:27
Sorry to change subject, but genob4c where did you get that engine stand. I have to get me one. That is the coolest thing I've seen.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 05:00 AM
  #10  
genob4c's Avatar
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From: Winchester, KY
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: LG4 305 Powerhouse
Transmission: Auto
Originally Posted by r_wells1
Sorry to change subject, but genob4c where did you get that engine stand. I have to get me one. That is the coolest thing I've seen.
I got it at Hottestands.com. I recommend you contact John Malin directly at bootskofcagent@earthlink.net . He was really helpful in getting it the way I wanted it. Tell him Geno in KY sent you. No, I don't get a kick-back. You'll love the stand. It's super heavy duty, yet rolls easily. Go for the radiator package. It'll be hard to make a regular radiator fit as well. Get the tach dash also. It gives you all the guages, tach, oilr pressure, temp and amps. Let me know if you have more questions. Good luck.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:41 AM
  #11  
jwscab's Avatar
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From: NJ/PA
Car: Yes
Engine: Many
Transmission: Quite a few
The lash should be set to Zero plus a 1/2 turn. I've tried the recommended 1 full turn, 3/4 turn, etc, 1/2 turn for most performance engines seems to be the best method. Even with them all lashed down, you can move the ones on the base circle of the cam slightly side to side(valve fully closed).

Use a chiltons, or equivalent for lash order/procedure, its the quickest method, and usually works great for all but the pickiest of people. Or search, it has been listed before.


As for the engine in the stand running hot, if the engine is completely fresh, it is common for an engine being broken in to run a bit hot for the first few minutes as all 'sharp' edges and rings and everything seats. If it still continues, I suppose you can check the lash again, usually lean is due to carb float set a little too low.(is that an edelbrock? probably need to check the float).
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