Finally got my sons car converted back from carb to TBI (idiot before me). Replaced the intake and distributor and rebuilt the TBI. Purrs like a kitten and can drive it around. Once it reaches operating temperature and then you shut off the car, it won't start back up. It will turn over, it has spark and fuel, just won't start. Timing issues? Don't have a timing light at the moment to check.
Tony

 

Are you throwing any codes?

 

Yeah, I'm throwing a 33 - MAP sensor and a 42 EST. Is 42 the distributor? I found one reference in my Chilton's about EST distributor. Timing perhaps?

 

As far as the code 33 it is saying that the MAP or manifold absolute pressure is higher than normal. It could be many things.
A.)Faulty MAP sensor
B.)Vacuum leak
C.)No vacuum connection to the MAP
D.)Wiring fault

To troubleshoot I start by taking my DMM, select the 0-10 volt scale, backprobe the center wire in the MAP connector. Now with the KOEO read the voltage. It should be somewhere between 4.5 to 5 volts. Now start the engine. It should drop to somewhere between 0.8 and 1.5 volts. Now play with the throttle, when you open the throttle it should go up, when you close it, it will go down, then return back to the idle reading. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP and it should stall.

Code 42 is an ESC failure. It could be several things as well.
A.)Bad knock sensor
B.)Bad ESC module
C.)Bad connection in the wiring
D.)Faulty ECM

 

Thanks, I was wondering how to test the MAP because the Chilton's I have doesn't state how to. Appreciate the help a bunch.
Tony

 

A friends car did the same thing, run around fine and then once shut off, wouldn't start again. The problem turned out to be it needed a heat shield on the starter... the starter would get to hot and after putting the shield on, it solved the problem. It ran just fine after that! Hope this might help, aside from all the codes and any other problem you're having!! Good luck!