Engine runs rough at idle
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: Automatic
Engine runs rough at idle
As some of you may know, I replaced my driver's side head gasket. Well, I got it all back together, but it isnt running right. It would die at idle yesterday, but today I got the timing set, now it idles, just very rough and it doesn't feel like it has its power anymore when driving it. I can't find any missing vaccuum hoses or disconnected ones, all wires are hooked up as far as i can tell. I also just tuned the car up while it was torn apart (new spark plugs and new filters).
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: Automatic
Yessir, and my dad said that it doesn't seem like its running bad enough to be timing order.
But I checked the firing order a couple times to make sure
But I checked the firing order a couple times to make sure
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you mean the EST connector. it shouldn't have vac advance.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: Automatic
I think I disconnected the EST connector. Chilton's manual said to disconnect the 4-wire EST connector, which is connected to the distibutor, so I disconnected the only 4 wire plug around there I could find, then set the timing.
I'm gonna compression check the cylinders when I get a chance to make sure the passenger side wasn't screwed up too (I only replaced the driver side one since thats the only one we found water in).
I'm gonna compression check the cylinders when I get a chance to make sure the passenger side wasn't screwed up too (I only replaced the driver side one since thats the only one we found water in).
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From: Washington
Car: 1985 Sport Coupe
Engine: 3800 Series II Turbo
Transmission: 4th-gen WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW Limited
Wrong plug. Look above your heater box on the firewall. There will be a large wiring harness with a brown and black wire sticking out. That wire will have a connector in it, should be right up on top. Disconnect that with the engine OFF, then start the engine and set the timing.
Make sure the 4-wire connection to the distributor is left connected while you set the timing.
Hope that helps.
Make sure the 4-wire connection to the distributor is left connected while you set the timing.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: Automatic
Well, I found the problem. After compression testing the cylinders, I discovered that there was poor compression on the side I replaced, but didn't know why. So I hooked an air compressor up and shot air in through the spark plug holes and it sounded like it was getting into the intake manifold. Took the head back off, did a leak test with some gas, and it went right through some of the valves. I'm gonna have the head redone by a machine shop and then put it back together.
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From: Yellowknife, NWT, Canada
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Originally Posted by Apeiron
Are you sure you just didn't have the valves lashed wrong?
Could be misadjusted rockers!
If you crank them down too much it will cause the valve to stay open a bit and 'leak'
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