Balancing question
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 382
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From: Boise, ID
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 6.3L 383 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Balancing question
Well like I said in the previous post about the 400 sbc my 383 is outta balance. Do to the fact that I cut corners when I put it together.
The problem is the rods. I had the engine balanced, brought home the rotating assembly and put it together. Then to my dismay, I found that the cam was too big. So I tore it apart, pulled the rods, went to work on the grinding wheel and now it shakes like milkshake maker. If I buy a set of balanced rods, will I have to rebalance the entire rotating assembly or can I just drop in the rods and everything will be fine???
The problem is the rods. I had the engine balanced, brought home the rotating assembly and put it together. Then to my dismay, I found that the cam was too big. So I tore it apart, pulled the rods, went to work on the grinding wheel and now it shakes like milkshake maker. If I buy a set of balanced rods, will I have to rebalance the entire rotating assembly or can I just drop in the rods and everything will be fine??? Member
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: DULUTH GA.
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 383 / TPIS MINI RAM
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: MOSER 9IN 3.89
Well alot of people would be supprised at how much difference just a gram makes you would really be scared to grind anything after your done. Thats why its so important to pre assemble. If you get a matched set you may be o.k. but if your pulling it that far apart you may as well have it rebalanced. Good luck.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 382
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From: Boise, ID
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 6.3L 383 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah very true. Cutting corners and trying to save a buck is what got me in trouble last time. Might as well do it right this time.
Joined: Sep 2005
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There's more to balancing than just making all of the parts weigh the same.
THe crankshaft counterweights have to be matched to the weights of the other rotating parts. That's what's wrong with your current setup. The only way you could get it to work by doing what you're saying, is if you know how much rod weight your crank was set up for, and could buy rodds that match that weight. Which I'd say is a pretty low-probability prospect.
Do it right; that way, what happened last time, won't happen again. Sounds like you already know that's what you should do.
THe crankshaft counterweights have to be matched to the weights of the other rotating parts. That's what's wrong with your current setup. The only way you could get it to work by doing what you're saying, is if you know how much rod weight your crank was set up for, and could buy rodds that match that weight. Which I'd say is a pretty low-probability prospect.
Do it right; that way, what happened last time, won't happen again. Sounds like you already know that's what you should do.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Can't you just bring in your current rotating assembly, to the machine shop, and get it rebalanced? Rather then buying new rods?
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From: Chasing Electrons
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I was wondering how much you ground off the rods. If it is shaking as bad as you posted, maybe it is another issue.
Wrong flex plate, bad convertor, or maybe wrong damper for the application. Just a thought.
RBob.
Wrong flex plate, bad convertor, or maybe wrong damper for the application. Just a thought.
RBob.
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