Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
I want to know if this is possible or has it ever been done before? Completly polishing an engine and head and intake. Inside and out, lifter valley, underside of motor, etc etc. This would not only look stunning but would promote amazing oil drain back.
What are any benefits or downfalls of this as well?
What are any benefits or downfalls of this as well?
Last edited by CamarosRUS; Jul 17, 2006 at 11:40 PM.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
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Originally Posted by Apeiron
It wouldn't look so hot when it started to rust.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Ok then, it wouldn't look so hot when the clear started to yellow, peel and flake, and then it started to rust.
If you wanted a shiny block, you'd be better off ceramic coating it or plating it or something.
If you wanted a shiny block, you'd be better off ceramic coating it or plating it or something.
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
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There would be no clear coat. Just polished metal.
I'm talking hypothetical mostly, and also wondering if there is a car out there with this done. Pics maybe?
I'm talking hypothetical mostly, and also wondering if there is a car out there with this done. Pics maybe?
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: Afr 408
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70s
Here's a link from another site, where this guy polished his entire 400 block. Check it out
Block Prep 101 - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board
Ok I think that worked this time.
Block Prep 101 - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board
Ok I think that worked this time.
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That guy CLEARLY had too much time on his hands.
Seems that you could ceramic-coat the block after that, with the shiny silver coating I suppose, to preserve the polish.... that would be kind of cool actually, a shiny silver block. It would also last a whole lot longer, and be more durable, than powder-coat or paint.
Seems that you could ceramic-coat the block after that, with the shiny silver coating I suppose, to preserve the polish.... that would be kind of cool actually, a shiny silver block. It would also last a whole lot longer, and be more durable, than powder-coat or paint.
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: Afr 408
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70s
Yea, that seems like way too much effort. However, it would be curious to see what that effects along the lines of coolant temp or oil temp. Seeing as now you've reduced your surface area, but I don't know what a reflective surface like that would do. You would have to build two indentical engines to get a good comparison.
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: Afr 408
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70s
I knew I had some more pictures of block prep. IF these pics show up, its a DEI cup block. I'd figure these guys know what polishing is useful and what is just for looks.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
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that would be like bead blasting, but with bigger beads? giving the visual appearance of being sanded sorta thing?
neato.
I like the bronze lifter bore liners. Epoxied screens in place.. Very cool.
Camaro RUS, here's a few more helpful block prep tips you may or may not be thinking about:
groove lifter bores (tool from comp to do this).
groove on the distributor to help oiling for the back of the cam
smooth any sharp edges on anything and everything. Give it a little radius if you can, or a chamfer. If it's a moving part, be careful about upsetting the balance. But the main bearing caps are fair game. MAKE SURE YOU COVER ALL BEARING SURFACES WHEN YOU GRIND. Cover it with masking/duct tape, you do not wanting grinding sand in there. Wash it out good too.
neato.
I like the bronze lifter bore liners. Epoxied screens in place.. Very cool.
Camaro RUS, here's a few more helpful block prep tips you may or may not be thinking about:
groove lifter bores (tool from comp to do this).
groove on the distributor to help oiling for the back of the cam
smooth any sharp edges on anything and everything. Give it a little radius if you can, or a chamfer. If it's a moving part, be careful about upsetting the balance. But the main bearing caps are fair game. MAKE SURE YOU COVER ALL BEARING SURFACES WHEN YOU GRIND. Cover it with masking/duct tape, you do not wanting grinding sand in there. Wash it out good too.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally Posted by Sonix
that would be like bead blasting, but with bigger beads? giving the visual appearance of being sanded sorta thing?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I have heard of it as a stress reliving technique, but it would give the same sort of visual appeal though eh?
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
It flattens out the cast surface a bit so it has a slightly more specular finish. Occasionally it's done for appearance reasons, usually on sculpture or architectural elements.
Also, if you're going to be grinding and polishing for stress-relief, make sure you're doing it in the right direction.
Also, if you're going to be grinding and polishing for stress-relief, make sure you're doing it in the right direction.
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From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
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Whats the thing running at the bottom of the bores? Thats a stock block with the cylender walls trimed right?
Originally Posted by Thomas Aquinas
Yea, that seems like way too much effort. However, it would be curious to see what that effects along the lines of coolant temp or oil temp. Seeing as now you've reduced your surface area, but I don't know what a reflective surface like that would do. You would have to build two indentical engines to get a good comparison.
I'm the guy who owns the polished 400.
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: Afr 408
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70s
Man, that thing is crazy. How long did it take you to do that? What combo/power are you going to build?
It does look sweet though.
It does look sweet though.
Originally Posted by Thomas Aquinas
Man, that thing is crazy. How long did it take you to do that?
What combo/power are you going to build?
What gave me the idea for the 355 was this article:
Small Block Chevy Should Have Built
Guys on Camaroz28.com are making pretty decent power with 355's under 7,000rpm, (450-475), so that'll probably be the way I end up going unless I hear a very convincing argument for option 2.
It does look sweet though.
Actually, a member on here already built the engine you are referring to in the article. I cant remember his name at the moment, but he had excellent results.
EDIT: His name here is Wesilva. Might wanna PM him on his results.
EDIT: His name here is Wesilva. Might wanna PM him on his results.
Originally Posted by Phatfiddler
Actually, a member on here already built the engine you are referring to in the article. I cant remember his name at the moment, but he had excellent results.
EDIT: His name here is Wesilva. Might wanna PM him on his results.
EDIT: His name here is Wesilva. Might wanna PM him on his results.
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B4CTom also has a 352, though he's either going centrifugal supercharger or twin turbo, can't remember which.
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there are plenty of people who polish their ALUMINIUM engine block, but thats really the first iron block ive seen polished.. lol.
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
I'm glad I brought this up. I've always wnated to see if anyone (especially the weekend mechanic) has polished a cast iron block themselves.
Very well done!
Very well done!
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
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Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Re: Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
TTT for thesoundandthef....still around? Ever built the thing?
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
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Re: Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
We were corresponding for a while. I'll e-mail him and see what's up.
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Re: Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
"However, it would be curious to see what that effects along the lines of coolant temp or oil temp. Seeing as now you've reduced your surface area, but I don't know what a reflective surface like that would do."
That would be my first thoughts also. What effect does it have on the heating and cooling?
That would be my first thoughts also. What effect does it have on the heating and cooling?
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Completly Polished Motor...Inside and Out
There'd be no discernable difference in temperature.
Last edited by Apeiron; Nov 18, 2008 at 11:48 PM.
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