Hey whats the scoop on summit brand heads are they stock replacements or what... the heads i found take up to a 550 lift cam but ive been told they are like stock replacements so i am having second thought about throwing them on my 355 that i m throwing in my 85 T/A

 

they probably flow pretty crappy. Probably close to 113 L98 heads.

 

Their just another spin off of the pro action, protopline design. They do flow better than L98 heads at .400 and .500 lift. Trust me save up the money and buy some good heads AFR, Brodix, TFS, Dart and Vortec edelbrock do it right the first time.

 

what about world?????

 

world torquers are close to stock.. good replacement head

 

World sportsmans are nice.

 

the ones i am lookin at promise 30 to 70 hp gain

 

Trust me its probably more near the 30 than the 70 and probably HP at the crank, which isn't that much for a head replacement.

 

 

what do you thiks worth it ... i m on a lil budget...

 

what intake are you going to run on the 355, and will it be a daily driven car with a race every now and then or street/strip car? And do you plan on getting a new cam with the heads?

 

its gonna be a street and strip ... lunati 50139 502/502 lift calls for a 3300 stall.... and edlebrock performer eps 2701 i also am running an edlebrock 600 4 barrel carb on my 305 and was wondering if that would be enough

 

should be fine with the right venturies. i would go holly 650dp, but thats just me.

 

no disrespect but im an edlebrock person...
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no disrespect but im an edlebrock person... sry man

 

Since youre an edelbrock person, they make some mild heads but I'm not sure of their flow rates.

But if you could afford to put 1000 dollars into the heads, I would get a set of trick flows and then you have the option of porting them later if you want it.

If you cant afford that at the moment, get the high end summit heads or edelbrocks and port them later or just get another set and sell those. Or you could just save up for some real nice ones like AFR if youre patient enough.

You're not the only one on a budget, damn college.

 

Im sorry, but the onlything edelbrock does right is their super victor intakes. Their carbs are easily out performed by holley and thier heads, which flow decent, cost more than heads that outflow it. Trickflow, canfield.. just to name a few.

 

Anyone try Aerohead Racing heads?

Aerohead Racing Cylinder Heads

Look like they flow pretty good for how cheap they are.
$625/pair

219/171 @ .400 lift (78% E/I)

 

Ive never heard of those but after looking at the specs they seem like a hell of a deal. Thats a lot of average torque and hp for so cheap.

The average trick flows dont even get that much hp and torque.

 

Will those heads hold up to my cam????? 502/502 lift about 289/290sumitn duration???? i know what you mean about college... UTI saving up for an apartment and are they Vortec heads... i not really looking for vortecs unless someone can convince me other wise because i can get non vortec with a 2.02 intake and a 1.6 exhasut...and 170cc runners..... theyre the worlds that i was tlaking about.... i m not trying to be stubborn guys just want to talk about all the optins...... first full rebuild, ya know?.... and 1 more thing ,sry , but how good do stock heads flow off lets say and 84 chev. 350 L engine code... out of a suburban



By the way i think i just might take these heads lol... i like the specs

 

What are you talking about?! Did you campare the two? Did you look at page 7 and see that the trick flows out perform the aero at every rpm no contest!

Or are you talking about the test perform on those trick flow heads compared to other dyno results performed with trick flows. If thats the case then its the engine builders combo and not the heads.

 

You know it really doesn't matter which of those heads you get they are all made by the same people. I'm talking about Summit heads, Pro Action, Aero, Pro topline, etc. Just look at the design they are exacty the same even the flow numbers are the same. Honestly I think you can get a aluminum set for the same price or $100 more from Ebay or try

Tri-State Cylinder Head - Chevy, Ford, Small Block, Performance, Aluminum Cylinder Heads and get them for $798.

But seriously do it right the first time and get AFR, TFS, BRODIX, DART etc. etc. Trust me you'll be happy if you just save for the best. Heads are everything!

 

Would this be because of the combustion chamber volume raising the compression ratio? Because the flow isnt that different in the heads until it gets to over 500 lift and the cam lift is only .490 and the aeroheads exhaust flows way better than the trickflows. Aerohead has much better E/I %, I'm not sure how important that is?

For some reason it says that the average hp and tq of the aerohead racing heads is more than the trickflows.

 

Did you compare the price of those two heads? Of course the $1000 heads are going to outperform, but they didnt by that much as far as torque goes, and didnt kill them horribly HP wise either. I was talking along the lines of the lower end trick flows, under $1000. Maybe average trick flows wasnt the right word.

64cc Kenny Duttweiler Sig Series only make 460 hp and 450 tq on a 383 as stated by trick flow themselves and they sell all the way to $860 depending on the ones you get.

 

ok i think ive picked the heads i want ..... but they have a 74 cc head and the pistons i want go 11.72:1 comp. on a 64 cc head what will be the difference any body know? i want those pistons becuase i want to run around 10.5.... i m just guessing on the specs and i think that 74s would bring the 11.72s down to around 10.5-11:1 right around where i wanna run can someone confirm what i am thinking or better yet tell me exactly the compression it would yeild

 

85T/A just get 64 chamber heads and once you get ready to buy pistons just tell the vendor what your looking for as far as compression. They will ask for your deck height and send you the right pistons for your needs its really simple.


Airpak flow numbers aren't everything. Just look at what the Trick flow heads actually did compared to Aero at each rpm range. There is over a 20 hp/tq differents across the board from start to finish! Thats a big differents both heads being used on the same engine and setup.

sasser43
Did you even look at page 7 and compare the TFS heads to AEROS? Did you see the hp and tq? 20 hp/tq across the whole entire pull over aeros how is that close?

Also I don't even see TFS heads going for $860 anymore maybe 3 or 4 yrs ago! I bought my TFS for $1028 shipped with .520 lift springs last year. The TFS i see now for sale are $1025 with .480 lift springs.

Now you said Of course the $1000 heads are going to outperform. Thats a load of BS the base model TFS heads were used in both test that your talking about.

The CNC ported TFS heads cost as much as AFR heads over $1300. Beside CNC porting the only different 195cc TFS heads there are would be stronger spring combinations. Also that 460hp/450tq engine on the TFS site had a different cam dont compare that engine combo with this one. The Aeros would have sucked A$$ with that cam in the tq department also.

Why would you even compare that setup to this one when the areo were never on that combo?

 

ok all fine and dandy.. lol ...... but how do i measure my deck hieght like i said before... my first full rebuild

 

Theres a tool you can buy that does it that makes it easy or just have your block done over and the machine shop can tell you. Do a search on the subject there a lot of info out there that can help.

 

al right thats cool becuase i am going to have the motor bored over anyway ill have the machine shop tell me then... i feel dumb but what exactly is deck hieght

 

Top dead center of the piston and the blocks surface height.

 

thanx lol.... anyw way thanx to everybody who has helped me... but one more question for each of who helped me...what heads would you use for less than 800

 

Now thats a good question!
I wouldn't go with cast iron but if did I think I would choose the smoken dickey Vortec heads. If I were you I'd go with some of these for just under $800:

eBay Motors: COMPLETE ASSEMBLED ALUMINUM HEADS 190cc SB CHEVY RP$ (item 260011048592 end time Jul-30-06 17:59:19 PDT)

eBay Motors: SBC PRO COMP ALUMINUM HEADS 350 383 CHEVY SMALL BLOCK (item 140010612832 end time Jul-31-06 04:38:37 PDT)

eBay Motors: CYLINDER HEADS SB CHEVY 190cc ASSEMBLED ALUMINUM *NEW* (item 230009738989 end time Jul-26-06 11:26:23 PDT)

eBay Motors: SBC CHEVY CYLINDER HEADS PRO SERIES 200 CC ALUMINUM (item 260011629808 end time Jul-26-06 21:10:07 PDT)

These are all the same heads just like summit heads and Aero same design. You just have to find out who sells them the cheapest.

 

TFS heads in the $860 range: Tada

No the base model heads we're not used for both test. On the chevy high performance test they used a $1026 pair of heads. For the specs I listed that TFS put out, it was for that paticular head, not the base model.

So as you can see the $1026 outperformed the cheap heads by a whopping 25 max hp. If hes on a budget, paying almost $400 for 20 more horsepower wouldn't be too smart.

 

Fully assembled vortec heads from summit, $500 bucks. Those, along with a XE276HR cam, edelbrock rpm perf. air-gap manifold, and a good carb can make 400 hp

 

what lift and all is that cam your talking about urbanhunter and whats the part number on summit brand heads

 

Man I can't believe you are from NC! Will you look at your Tada! Those are the R-Series Big Port 215cc inake heads an that $860 price is for ONE HEAD!

The base model was used for both tests the 195cc heads Gees!

85T/A the vortec heads do make the same power as the heads I just showed you I've seen test done on both. I would still go with the aluminum heads because thats 40lbs your shaving off and weight really matters.

 

Are you talkin about the heads that urban hunter is talking about...???

 

Yes the vortec heads make good power but the aluminum heads I showed you and the Aero heads that were mention earlier make about the same power. Plus you save on weight. Well actually those aluminum heads flow better at .500 lift but on different dyno test vortecs made serious power. Most of those test though had bowl work done to vortecs that makes a big differents too!

I still say you should save and get a set of AFR, TFS, Dart, or Brodix.

 

lilbowilson gotta question the first set of heads on here .. wel acually all of tem.. i know its says for auction but even after the auction is over can i still get them through that link do you know?????

sry bout all the questions guys but everytime i get an answer it opens up new questions everybody

 

Yes you don't have to use ebay those sellers are actual parts dealers. Just look for their phone numbers on the auction web page.

 

okay anybody who is still following this thread... are buying vortecs worth it even though thier valve size dropps from 2.02 (Non vortec) to 1.9 and from 1.6 to 1.5????? oh and whats the difference in an open and closed chamber head

 

anybody????

 

Does anyone have any idea or diagram that shows how to route dual exhaust on a 1982 firebird? I just put a 350 chevy crate into mine which used to have a 4 banger. The exhaust is giving me a lot of trouble. Thanks.......Sorry, new to the site and can't figure out how to post a new subject.

 

no problem dont worry... whta you need to do is go to message boards scroll down slowy till you find the one for exhaust... click on it.... and it should bring up a whole bunch of posts for exhaust... then at the top of the page theres a button ... new thread click on it then you got what you need .... Good Luck ANd welcome to the site

 

those aeroheads are actually out of the box dart s/s. Great buy for 625. I got mine for 385.

 

hey guys whats the difference in an open or closed chamber head

 

an open chamber head is usually a 76cc design, which is a larger chamber.
closed is generally like 64cc, and has less volume on the quench side, hence it being "closed". Closed is usually better.

Vortect heads are nice, but remember you need a vortec specific intake manifold. So if you already have a nice non vortec manifold you want to use, having to buy a new one sucks. But if you don't have heads or intake manifold, and plan on buying both, then it's a moot point.

This is all you need to know right here. The cam mentioned is a roller cam though, if you have a flat tappet block use the XE274H.

If you're looking to go cheap, you can also port stock heads. More of a sense of accomplishment there.

 

ok i looked up the specs on the cam and was told that a cam with an operating range from 19 to 5600 rpm would be a sluggish cam anythoughts??? is it true???

 

That makes no sense, so now, that's not true.

Sluggish as in no low end? nah, I don't think so, mine was rated 1800-6200 and had nice low end. If a "sluggish" cam has the rating of 1900-5600, then yea, it'll be sluggish. That RPM range is just what "some guy" decided to write on the piece of paper. Two cams with different durations could have the same "recommended RPM range", and therefore would still act quite differently.

 

ok suweet........ now for the main question of all how many "stallions" no not ponies "stallions" can i get to the rear wheels... round about? oh and what kinda quarteer mile times can i expect

 

i just wanted to chim in here for a moment.the thing to me is if you buy cheap heads you will hate the decision the minute they get to you because you feel like you settled for something you didnt really want. second if you need a set of heads to keep your car running try to get your exisisting heads fixed...when i was building my engine i started by having my heads redone by a good machine shop, they turned out great bigger valves and all the goodies but after running the car i realized they werent big enough for the rest of the parts i had added, so therefore it wasnt a smart idea to have the heads redone afterall. i then started the process of looking for nice aftermarket heads. i searched and did research and asked questions and ended up saving the money to buy a new set of AFR's. what a difference. the engine really woke up and now she screams. rule i learned is all you power starts with your heads and make you choices around them(cam- intake etc...) so my point is if your car is running and you can wait and save then buy some good heads. afr's, dart, brodix. good luck i hope this helps you.
mike