I have the longer belt, took off the old one, and relize it's more than
"Its very simple really, the whole trick lies in the belt routing. The stock setup in a clockwise manner: Tensioner, over the alternator, down to the power steering pump, under the crank, under and over the water" like it says in the tech article can someone please tell me, what comes off, waht hoses get plugged etc. I have no cats on the car.

 

still tryin to find out whats holdin this thing on I removed 3 bolts on the bottom, still stuck. Any help greatly appreciated, it's gonna get dark soon

 

Only 2 torx head bolts hold the smog pump on, and they are behind the pulley. All the hoses come off, I left the hose on the back of the motor on, and plugged it, didn't feel like messing with it! If not using headers, you will need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds! Help this helps!!

 

Thanx but I already removed 2 nuts at the bottom, where the air tube plugs in. What am I misssin?

 

Think I got it, put the car on ramps and see the torx bolts, I wish they'd tell you in the instructions, removal is from underneath

 

3 differnt siz torx and none seem to fit. t-45 seems to small T-47 is to big anyone who has removed their know what size it is?

 

Sorry I dont remember the torx size, sounds like a good time to go buy a set of torx sockets!!The bolts are behind the pump pulley, there only 2, I got it all off from the top, you need to leave the belt on to get the pulley bolts off, there is 3 of those (10mm), then the 2 torx bolts are in plain sight! My Z is at the g/f's house an hour away with my manual, the GM manual would also good be a good investment for you!! Later!
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I see you are in central Fl, my car is in Oviedo, anywhere near by?

 

One of the key things that a mechanic needs is good tools and the right tools.

Buy an entire set of Torxs, there are used multiple times, you can not survive w/o a full set. But this goes for all tools, like a complete set of metric and english wrenches, complete set of 1/2" and 3/8" sockets, and so on,,,,,,,,
It gets fairly expensive, I know.

 

thanx 4 your help The torx might be a little stripped from trying the wrong size, have to foofl around with it.and it looks like I'll have to put the belt back on to get at the pulley nuts!

 

I really wish I would have read this better or got a more step by step explanation, I was trying to remove the wrong torx bolts:embarrasement: below thge pump holding a bracket. I wound up nipping an ac line,trying to grind the stripped head off the bolt can someone please tell me why I need to plug the exhaust manifolds?

 

does this air thing need to be removed,the pipe seems to be hiiting the exhaust manifolds now, or will it be okay, and I can just plug the opening where it went to the pump?

 

 

I hate to say it man but I don't think you were ready for this. If I remember right (and I don't always) the torx heads are a T-40. It takes a little bit of elbow grease to break them loose. Without the AIR pump that diverter valve (the plastic thing) does nothing and is not supported. What you need to plug are the holes left in the manifold from when you remove the air pipes (the antler looking things). And without the pump you might as well remove all of that stuff. If all you do is remove the diverter valve (at least find a way to support it), then you need to make sure anything that was connected to it is plugged (or capped I guess). When you remove the antlers from the manifolds you'll need 1/4" pipes plugs for the holes. This site reccommends brass, but I used galvonized and haven't had any problems. Anymore questions? Ask away.

 

thats because the instructions on this site are crap. The only thing I've removed is the pump. The only opening is at the bottom of the diverter valve, where it plugged into the pump.My car is running worse, is this opening the reason? Nothing else was done. Is the computer seeing a vacuum leak or something? Can you please explain what this hole does, and why I would need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifolds, thanx

 

Agreed.

Okay. That hole is the first place air from the smog pump goes, into the diverter valve. The diverter valve is constantly being controlled by the computer. When warming up the diverter valve directs fresh air to the exhaust manifolds. By putting more air in the exhaust it becomes very lean and warms the cat up faster. Once the ECM goes into closed loop the diverter valve directs air to the cat to improve the cat's oxidation capabilites. When you decelerate a lot of extra fuel gets into the exhaust so the diverter valve vents the air to the atmosphere to avoid a backfire. You should unplug the diverter valve because the ECM doesn't know you removed the smog pump. It is still trying to direct the air. If you unplug it it will effectively plug up all the hoses it is connected to. In this case you need only support it in some way so it is not flopping around in your engine bay.

I would remove it. Remove it and all the hoses attached to it. Then remove the air tubes from the exhaust manifolds. You'll need a 9/16" line wrench to loosen the nuts. For the rear most nuts I just broke the lines off and used a deep well 9/16" socket. In the holes left by the removed lines put in the 1/4" pipe plugs. Since you don't have a cat (as you mentioned) you don't have to worry about capping of the tube that goes to the cat.
Tuck the electrical connections away where they won't get in the way of moving parts. Oh and did you replace the top torx bolt of the 2 you removed? You will want to put that bolt back in. The bottom one you can leave out.

 

 

That's pretty much it. If you unplug the diverter valve then you don't need to plug that hole that went to the pump. But I suppose it won't hurt.

 

doesn't

 

From reading these posts, evidently you have no idea what these components do, and for some reason you feel they need to be removed. First mistake. Second mistake was doing it, or atempting to do it. Third mistake is not leaving it alone after realizing you got in over your head. Last mistake is believing everthing you hear about emission controls.

 

Why put in the top bolt of the smog pump?? What will it do if we dont?? I will second cutting the air pipes in the manifolds and using a 9/16 deep socket, it was a hell of alot eaiser, use a hack saw or dremmal!

 

 

Removing AIR from a car with no cat is fine. You've already got no cat so technically it doesn't meet federal requirements. Without a cat the AIR serves no purpose. It is not heating anything up (with the possible exception of the O2 sensor, but only in closed loop anyway) nor is it oxidizing anything.

The top bolt holds that bracket in place it doesn't JUST hold the smog pump. Someone said it is also an open hole in the block if you don't put the bolt back in, but I wouldn't know about that.

 

what bolt are you talking about? One of the bolts that was behind the pulley?

 

Yes you pulled two long torx bolts out to remove the pump, put the upper bolt back in and torque it.

 

thanx I'll put that bolt back in tommorow, I just love all the steps to this mod, that weren't included in the tech does that hole have any effect on the way the car runs?

 

 

It shouldn't, other than a possible vibration especially when the a/c is on.

 

alright im getting ready to tackle this myself next week all i have is 1 question that needs to be answered. what should i use to seal the threads on the plugs that are going into theexh manifolds?
thanks