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Rough Idle... Timing Chain Replacement

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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #1  
Zig's Avatar
Zig
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From: Ft Worth, TX
Car: 91 Z28 with 64,000 miles
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Rough Idle... Timing Chain Replacement

A few of you have probably read my "hunting idle" problem over the last few days. A few have replied and I appreciate the pearls of wisdom. I have decided to bite the bullet and replace a few things. I have had a minor water leak (about a quart every two to three weeks) from the intake manifold for as long as I've owned the car. Therefore I am pulling it to replace the gaskets. While doing that, I am going to replace the timing chain and sprockets, water pump, EGR valve and a few other odds and ends (plugs, cap, rotor, etc). I am getting this timing set:
1987-Up SB Chevrolet Single Roller Timing Chain Kit :: 12371043 - SDPC
and a good water pump with ball bearings. I'll replace the timing chain cover seal, and bushing for the balancer.

I assume that is a decent timing chain set. Any other recommendations are appreciated. The main question I have so far is about the oil pan. Do I have to loosen any bolts on the oil pan to do this? I have absolutely NO oil leaks anywhere and I'd like to keep it that way. Also, I have a puller for the balancer, but not sure what I am going to use to reinstall it. Any suggestions?

I've got all the other seals and o-rings for the top end already. Also got a new thermostat, throttle body gasket kit, idle air control valve and coolant temp sensor. If all this doesn't cure my surging idle, I guess I have a bad wire or computer!!

Thanks in advance for the assistance.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #2  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
unless the roller block is different than flat tappet (guys?), then you'll need to remove all the bolts from your oil pan, and let it drop 1/2" or more, to remove the timing chain cover.

It should bolt back up and stay leak free if you're lucky. Might want to consider a 2 piece timing cover set for the future.

make sure you got a big tube of RTV! Maybe the kind you can use with a caulking gun, makes applying it a bit easier
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:11 PM
  #3  
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The pan gasket should be a one-piece unit. Drop the pan down enough to release the front cover from it.

There is also a harmonic damper installation tool. It is basically a large threaded pipe with a stud which screws into the crank, with a large nut & washer to drive the damper onto the crank. Summit Harmonic Balancer Installation Tools: SUM-G1023 - summitracing.com
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 04:50 PM
  #4  
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Zig
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From: Ft Worth, TX
Car: 91 Z28 with 64,000 miles
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by five7kid
The pan gasket should be a one-piece unit. Drop the pan down enough to release the front cover from it.

There is also a harmonic damper installation tool. It is basically a large threaded pipe with a stud which screws into the crank, with a large nut & washer to drive the damper onto the crank. Summit Harmonic Balancer Installation Tools: SUM-G1023 - summitracing.com

Thanks. I was hoping I could avoid breaking the seal on the oil pan. Guess I'll have to take my chances. I am not an advocate of reusing old gaskets and changing this gasket is pretty involved. The last one I did was a 3.1. I assume my 5.7 will be just as bad or worse.

I'll order the balancer install kit. Rather have the right tool to avoid disaster.
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