Gentlemen,....Im still cleaning the parts, and machining the heads to go back on the car, but was wondering how to properly reinstall everything as far as bolts. What do I use, if anything, on the threads. Do I oil them?..thread loc?>>what kind what color?? loc titie...what color.....I know nothing about this stage of installation so all help would be appreciated.
Intake manifold bolts--??
Cylinder head bolts --??
header bolts--??
anything else im missing

Thanks guys
P.S. is there a thread to post introductions of cars??...Im fairly new, and you guys have been extrememly helpful, and would like to show you guys the car your helping me on.

 

Head bolts and intake bolts need thread sealer. You might want to put a little anti-seize on the header bolts. That's about it.

Introductions aren't really done much, except maybe in the regional boards. If you want to show off the car, probably the best way is to just create a signature.

 

oil is for if you don't "need" to use anything.

ape is right on those ones. Main caps and rods should have oil, or ARP thread lube.

waterneck - aka thermostat - use sealer.

I think I used blue loctite on the trans-motor bolts

oil on accessory bolts. nothing else I can think of off the top of my head

 

Any particular kind of thread sealer??....I went to the permatex website, and they have them for different duties (low, medium, and heavy duty)...any particular "color" good for use on the intake and heads??. Thanks.

 

It's thread sealer they need, not thread locker. Look for liquid teflon.

 

for a thread sealer you'd want a non hardening sealer. liquid tefelon pipe sealer is good. for a thread locker i use red loctite. it'll melt around 300*F, for header bolts i like safety wire. some of the water pump bolts will need sealer.

 

There's a little icon below your member info that is supposed to look like a garage - you can post your car info in your very own "vB Garage".

 

i always use plumber pipe thread dope for the head bolt threads, works excellent, used it on many many engines many many times, awesome stuff, i use it on the intake bolts too so that oil doesnt travel up them and make puddles on the intake in which s a commonly seen problem, its non hardening and is good for higher temps




and always oil the heads of the bolts to reduce tightening friction so that you get them as tight as the torque wrench is telling you

no thread locker

when you wipe the engine block decks and head/intake gasket surfaces off use denatured alcohol

a nice new putty knife blade to clean off the decks and surfaces, and the alcohol and then theyre ready for gaskets to stick and seal reallly good, fel pro blue gaskets highly recommended,
dont use the rubber end seals for under the intake,
instead use black RTV in squeeze tube instead, and in all four corners real good too, just keeps oil from leaking out is all,


good luck

 

I used to be a fan of permatex #2 then I tried the T2 teflon ape snot (once only so far) and then some of the liquid teflon stuff from permatex as well. I've used the #2 stuff more than any of the others, but then, I had more opportunity when I was younger too.

 

My :
Put red loctite thread locker on rodbolt nuts. (smaller than 7/16)
Use loctite blue thread locker on crankshaft to flywheel/flexplate bolts.(7/16 and up)
For any threaded bolt or non- o'ring fitting with liquid on the threaded end: use loctite 515 gasket eliminator (AKA: grape jelly).
For any threaded bolt or fitting that involves aluminum use loctite 518 gasket eliminator (AKA: cherry jelly).
These sealants never harden unless confined and will prevent galling of threads from repeated disassembly (unscrewing the bolt and the threads come out with it) as well as corrosion resistance.
The 515 provides better vibration resistance (locking) of parts than the 518 but both provide good thread-locking.
Use teflon based sealers only on fittings larger than 3/8" NPT where vibration cannot cause them to loosen.
If you have a joint with .020" or greater gap use GE red RTV.
That's six sealants/lockers for everything.
Again just my ...and 20 years of keeping industrial motorized equipment together.
p.s. no, I'm not a spokesman for loctite, but you can find these at any bolt store.

 

Ok so we got properly sealing bolts out the way....Any suggestions on gaskets...I figure this thread is appropriate. Any rtv sealant or permatex crap on any of the gaskets...I know the Intake one needs them in the corners, but thats about it..
Head gaskets..
Intake manifold gaskets...
water pump...
thermostat housing...
others..

Thanks

 

for head gaskets i would reccomend felpro prema torques. unlike some other head gaskets you dont have to re-torque these after the engine has warmed up for the first time.

 

intake - also RTV around the water jacket holes
head - I think I did mine dry...?
waterpump - sealer on the threads, RTV on both sides of the gaskets.
t-stat - o-ring, or, goop lots of RTV. I used only red RTV, and it stopped the leak.
valve covers - RTV on the cover side, nothing on the head side. This way you can remove it, and it won't tear.
Spend some extra cash and use stainless bolts for places it goes into the water jacket. Ie, waterneck, waterpump, etc.

 

i use high tack on the paper gaskets, like the water pump and timing cover, mostly to hold them in place while i instal lthe parts. ultracopper is my preferred RTV. i use one piece oil pan gaskets when i can, install dry. i use k&w copper spray on head gaskets ( i know about the dry install)

 

i throw the gaskets away for the china walls & use a nice bead of permatex ultracopper or ultragray on them.

a little ultracopper or ultragray around the water ports on the intake gaskets, the bottom side of the heads of the intake bolts, for the T-stat gasket, water pump gaskets, rear main seal housing gasket, timing cover gasket, & a little dab where the timing cover & oil pan meet with a 1 piece oil pan gasket.

permatex #2 on head bolts, water pump bolts, the front main seal, oil gallery plugs & freeze plugs.

rubber valve cover gaskets go on dry.

red loctite on the rod bolts or nuts & oil pump pickup, blue loctite for the balancer bolt, main bolts, oil pump bolt, & flywheel bolts.

head gaskets go on either dry or with K&W copper coat depending on what gaskets i use.