Camshaft help
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 49
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From: Parsippany,NJ
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Camshaft help
I've been having problem w/ my knock sensor for quite a while and found out that I have too much compression for this cam. Tpis recommended there ZZ-409. I am also considering the Mini Ram. Is this my best option? I want to get in the 12's and want to run nos.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 13
From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
You don't have too much compression for that cam it is just right.
Find out at what rpm range/lv8 you are getting knock and then either add fuel or reduce timing at that range in the chip.
Find out at what rpm range/lv8 you are getting knock and then either add fuel or reduce timing at that range in the chip.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 13
From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
I have struggled with the same knock problem myself in the past. Put some race gas or 100 octane unleaded in a minimum of 1 gallon of gas left in the tank and drive around until it mixes well. Then make some full-throttle runs and see if you are getting knock. That will tell you if it is false knock or real knock.
I tried the 3.9k ohm resistor, zero'd out the knock retard table in the chip(which I don't recommend) and tried the 100 octane trick. My knock was real. I picked up 3 mph in the 1/8 with the race gas.
Unscrew your knock sensor and make sure it is torqued to 13-14 ft lbs(mine was in there so hard that I had to break it off trying to get it out and had to buy a new one). I also had a y-pipe hitting the frame under load that would give me knock counts.
You might have knock after the shift if you log data going down the track as the 700r4 has deep gear variations from 1-2 and you have a clost to stock stall. I have reduced or added fuel after the shift to help this knock, when running the old 2400 stall converter I had, but the 3500 stall I am running now doesn't let the motor drop so low(shift extension) so I don't get knock anymore. I shift at 6500 now and it drops to 5000 after the shift. My old combos I shifted at 5500 and it dropped to 3500 and I would get knock every time.
I tried the 3.9k ohm resistor, zero'd out the knock retard table in the chip(which I don't recommend) and tried the 100 octane trick. My knock was real. I picked up 3 mph in the 1/8 with the race gas.
Unscrew your knock sensor and make sure it is torqued to 13-14 ft lbs(mine was in there so hard that I had to break it off trying to get it out and had to buy a new one). I also had a y-pipe hitting the frame under load that would give me knock counts.
You might have knock after the shift if you log data going down the track as the 700r4 has deep gear variations from 1-2 and you have a clost to stock stall. I have reduced or added fuel after the shift to help this knock, when running the old 2400 stall converter I had, but the 3500 stall I am running now doesn't let the motor drop so low(shift extension) so I don't get knock anymore. I shift at 6500 now and it drops to 5000 after the shift. My old combos I shifted at 5500 and it dropped to 3500 and I would get knock every time.
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