i need your help again guys
problem
i have a 350 bored .030 over
no stroke
im going to leave it as it is, but when im looking around im looking at the engine rebuild kits, and this is what i got.
Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild Kits: FEM-MHP126-311 - summitracing.com
and
Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild Kits: FEM-MHP126-311 - summitracing.com
im going to use, a 350 crank, and a lt1 cam from odviously a LT1
i need to know these things. im going to use my stock LG4 heads but get them ported and polished, and im worried that the cam choice will smack the pistions. now the intake will be a RPM perfromer from EB, and a 650 carb from EB. what do you all think i should do else, i dont want to spend a lot of money but i want to get this motor running and in to my auto trans am. any sugestions. the motor rebuilds are 250 my prime area to spend. im not looking to spend alot of money just enough.
tell me what you think
thanks alot guys

 

If we're talking about the same cam, I have a LT1 cam (from a 93-97 camaro) in my 305 with stock LG4 (#416 casting) heads that were ported and polished myself with 1.94 intake and 1.5 exhaust valves. Unless your getting dometop pistons (which I see it reads flat), I wouldn't see any problem, but I'm certainly no expert.

Get better answers than mine - but I wanted to let you know I have that cam/heads combo in my 305 with no problems.

 

grrr.... building motors are annoying at times, anyone else have any ideas.

 

man it is going to be a close call with that cam. if I were you have the heads worked, and put a good set of valve springs on the heads. also check out this web site for rebuild kits. Northern Auto Parts: Home

 

dont worry, i have chosen a 1968 corvette 327 cam. it should work great with my heads. but im still worried.

 

What are you talking about here?

Is it a roller block? If not you can't use the LT1 cam unless you use retrofit roller stuff, and even then with a factory cam I don't think it can be done. Going to that trouble and expensive isn't worth it for the the LT1 cam.

2nd - No, your pistons will not hit your valves. If you want to sleep well at night, put some playdoh on your piston top, like 1/2" thick or so, bolt on a head and rotate the motor over a few times. It'll clear by a mile.

3rd - don't use the 1968 vette cam, like c'mon! It's almost a 40 year old cam design, don't you think those PHD mechanical engineers working in racing technology have come up with ANYTHING in relation to cams in 40 years? Yes, they have, just about all are going to work better then that cam. That is a flat tappet cam too, so first make your choice, are you using a flat tappet or roller setup?

 

well, im using a flatt tappet, so yeah. i mean dont dog a 327 cam, it does well for a 350 so i have herd, as i said before this is going into a trans am, im not looking for a crazy 500hp, im just looking for 280-300 at the wheels.
if you have a idea please tell me.

 

You'd have a very hard time reaching 300HP at the crank with that cam.

Try a compxe268, lunati 60103, or cranes.... I forget, their Z or powermax line in the mid 22x duration @.050" .
That'll be streetable, and run very quickly.

 

hey man what is your parts in your motor because im building a 355 for my car
like what did you use on internals and cam, and how much did you spend

 

Mine's pretty similar to what you're trying to do. Check the sig.

I think I spent $3500 total on engine stuff.

 

i think im only going to spend 1000 on it, and just do more or less a "rat" motor, because im buying the carb from a buddy and some other parts from buddys....

 

a rat motor? uh, a rat means a big block chevy right? so.... Not a 350?

 

Rat = Big Block
Mouse = Small Block

 

well then my bad, ive always herd the other way... maybe its different in the the areas you live at? i dont know dont jump my case lol
but anywho ive always known a rat motor for a motor that was built up using "used/junkyard" parts.

 

yea, that's kinda what I thought you meant Rat/mouse as Apeiron described is "the" definition basically.

Just make sure to do your homework and match the parts as close as you can. You can put together JY parts, using the right ones, and make 300FWHP without too much trouble i'd think, just make sure it all matches up right, and it'll be fine.

 

yeah, i know, u used 305 heads? i have herd the heads i have on my 305 which are 416's are really good if i get them built right, but that again cost money and thats something im not really looking forward to throw out like i will be.

 

yep, 305, 416 castings. You don't need to toss a lot of $ at them, they're pretty much the cheapest way you can go "fast". If you can't spend that much money be prepared to be going pretty slow.

I ported mine, only cost there was tools, which I can reuse later, so I didn't count it. After that, I had them hot tanked, bead blasted, new guides put in, new springs-retainers-locks-valve seals, milled flat, I tapped and put in thread in rocker studs, cut for 1.94 valves, and had them assembled. $340 got me a package deal of machine work and assembly, throw in the threaded studs ($26), springs ($80), seals ($80), 1.94 valves (I had them lying around, but my exhaust valves were toast, so those cost $80), cut for 1.94" valves ($80)....

Based on the fact that I got ripped off on parts, I spent around $600 in heads total. You can probably get away with cheaper, don't use 1.94 valves, don't pay $80 for valve seals, etc....

 

I have a question. Now starting a war, but why would you spend $600 working a set of 416's or 601's when you can slap a set of Vortecs on and make a lot more power? SDPP sells Vortec heads machined for higher lift cams, for less than $600? Gotta buy a new intake anyway. Just wondering...

 

good question; I'm paying canuck dollars. I'd be paying upwards of $1000 CDN realistically, to get a set of vortecs on my doorstep, ready to use. I bought a new intake anyway, so that point is moot.
In hindsight, I probably should have coughed up the extra dough to get the vortecs, but I didn't think i'd be buying new valves and paying $80 for the positive seals, etc. I thought it'd be closer to $200, but I got suckered into the machining "package deal", etc etc.

 

10-4