92 RS w/3.1 liter v6, T-5

my car started droppin in voltage as it warmed up, and would feel gutless unless it was cold. it would also "whir" consistent with engine RPM and load. the more load and more RPM, the louder the "whirring". i pulled the codes and got a 32. so i swapped the EGR with another i had. same thing. then after some more run time, the car would start bogging down out of nowhere, i'd put my foot in it and nothing for a sec, then it would pick back up. it got really bad right before i got it home and parked it. stuttering and putting the whole last 1/4 mile. now my old EGR is cracked on one of the ports now, and has alot of new white buildup which wasn't there before (i just had that thing off a couple months ago).

i changed the alternator to a 110 amp unit, and the smog pump, hoping that would cure both problems. but no way. it's worse than ever.

as soon as i start up the car it jumps to 2000 RPM's (as normal). but when it tries to drop down to idle it starts boggin down and trying to die. if i rev it up it will wake up for a second, but sounds a bit rough. it'll drag to a stop if i don't touch the gas. i haven't run it long enough to let it warm up and check the voltage issues, im afraid i'll grenade my other EGR valve (200 bucks for a new one). for some reason i still think it's emissions equipment cause it has a new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, and ignition module, so i don't see it being a spark problem.

i've been without a car I could drive farther than 5 miles for THREE MONTHS!!! i'm getting so discouraged, i almost want to sell the damn car but i won't because my mom bought it for me 6 months before she died... someone please help me out.

 

Code 32 means that your EGR system isn't working. With the symptoms you describe I would guess it is due to an uplugged, broken, or missing vacuum line to the EGR. This would cause you serious problems on a MAF system, plus your EGR would not work.

 

i have a 92

digital EGR, no vacuum lines

i also have MAP on the car, again, because its a 92

thank you for taking the time to reply though

 

Have you ever replaced your fuel pump? I'm not sure what you mean about dropping voltage, but the symptoms are similiar to what happened to me when my fuel pump took a dump. you have also replaced everything i replaced before I tested the fuel pressure. Is the whirring coming from the rear of the car?

 

it actually sounds like its coming from the passenger front, but you can never be sure since i have to be driving the car to hear it.

i have actually thought of this, and if so, i will crap my pants. all the work i've done to this car in the past 6 months is starting to really add up.

is there anyway to test the fuel pressure without actually having a pressure gauge of any sort?

 

I do not know of one. removing the fuel line and seeing if it still squirts gas out does not work. I tried this, got squirte with gas and thought that was not the problem. When it goes bad, it still pumps, but at a lower pressure. it was not until I got a gauge that it showed a lower pressure than what was specified for my car. Does this Help?

 

I must have spent a month trying different things, but nothing was more valuable than learning how to properly diagnose things that go wrong. This site really has helped me learn things about the car. Have you done some reading on some of the threads or done a search on how to test fuel pressure? Sometimes it seems that you have to do a lot of reading and some roads seem to be dead ends, but nothing made me more happy than after I replaced my fuel pump and fired the car right up-it acted like nothing was ever wrong. Hang in there, do a little more homework and you will find the answer to your question.

 

thanks for the help so far guys

update

the pump relay was going, which gave it the sporadic idle and bogging upon startup, so it's replaced. but the original problem is not gone.

the alternator fixed my low voltage reading when the car is warmed up, so that's good news at least. the smog pump did nothing but eliminate a really annoying chirping sound that it had before, but I'm glad to be rid of it.

so the original problem is still there... which is a whirring sound consistent with engine speed, loss of power, and a slight surging and bucking while under load, especially heavy throttle situations.

i do not believe it's the EGR (i've had two in the car), but I do believe this problem cracked the middle port in my old EGR (must be some serious pressure). it is not backfiring whatsoever.

new smog pump, new ignition overhaul except the distributor itself. it's now getting gas, and running good at idle and in neutral.

i'm thinking maybe a catalytic converter, but my exhaust note hasn't changed at all, it seems to blow good through the pipes, and i'm not getting any wierd smells.

any ideas?

 

bump

 

I had a similar problem with the bogging down and it was the fuel pump. Harbor Freight sells a fuel pressure gauge for cheap and it worked great for me. My pressure was < 20 but should be around 40. I replaced the pump and the pressure came right up to where it should be and no more bogging down.