Like a rapping/tapping sound

Loose rocker arm maybe?

 

I have the same problem. It is a tapping sound. I have a full roller motor that puts out a good 500 HP. I set the valve lash (brand new motor) thinking it would go away. But nope. There were some other softer tapping sounds that went away, but there is still a pretty distinct one. I really don't wanna break my new motor. I hope that this thread provides some insight onto what it might be.

 

Bad lifter?

 

hmmm.........maybe, that would seem crazy on my new motor, but I gues there is a chance.... Maybe I will try and find a good way to test that.

 

Well i have a tiny vibration and im hoping it was a loose valve etc, that may be causing it

But a bad lifter could def be it.. ill put my ear to the valve cover and see if i can tell if its coming from the pushrod/ liifter or if its right in the top of the valve cover or w/e lol

 

Damn, that will be impressive if you can tell that. If the motor was sorta stock and EFI I can imagine maybe being able to tell, but not now. I am gonna keep building my car, and drive it to get painted. Then after that is all said and done I am gonna take it to a dyno tunning shop and ask them to tune the car and find out what that ticking sound is. I am sure they will charge me up the A$$ but at least the car will be tuned and have to tapping noise.

Stupid noise

 

Have you checked for exhaust leak at the back of the mainfold / header? This is an extreamly common problem. Have you used a stethascope to pinpoint the problem?

 

original poster - reset your valve lash. If that doesn't work, or if you can't get a certain rocker to move (to do it EOIC style), then fire up the car with a valve cover off, (get your raincoat, you're gonna look like those birds that David Suzuki pulls outta the ocean after an exxon-valdez), and watch the valves. You'll see one not moving. That means the cam is shot. Chances are it's just a loose rocker though.

Dennis - solid roller motor ? Get used to the tapping. Or, if not, as mentioned above, relash valves, and then watch it running with valve covers off. If everything is moving, you're ok. Then re-tighten your header bolts. That should fix it.

 

ill give it a shot asap, I do have a exhaust leak but THATS another noise to deal with later :P

 

Yeah I have a full roller motor. Everyone thinks it is a soild lifter on TGO, when I first bring it up. I guess cuz the HP it is supposed to make.

I am 100% sure the header bolts are tight. I used the kind that lock and can't loosen. I will chack lash again I guess. Or at least watch the valvetrain running to make sure there is no visual hints.

Thanks so far. I really hope to get to the bottom of this.


First frost of the year is comin' tomorrow I think....

 

I am assuming that you have re-toqued them since new. Even though you have the lock clips in place, the metal will shrink and expand with the temperal differences and over time the matting surfface will change slightly. So even if you have the locking bolts and clips, you still need the to re-thighten them once in a while! This is espescially true for aluminum heads as the change more with heat. As I said though, I assume you already knew this and I am only posting this because I know of a few people who purchased the locks and never re-checkd them and wondered why they had an exhaust leak. They only keep the header bolts from backing out. They cannot control the changes in the matting surface.

 

yeah, I am aware of this, I am not going to re-toque them till I get to really driving it. It has only gone 3 miles so far, and only been up to temp twice.

 

I don't blame you then, and I am sure you have them correct. I just wanted to stress that point for any one else who reads this. Too many people think they are a set it and forget it deal..... Not true. So I appologise to you for my persistance but I am trying to educate the others!

 

I totally understand.