yes another computer quest
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
yes another computer quest
i have an 84 camaro 305, i want to remove the computer cause it keeps retarding my timing.... i unplugged the est thing and still no difference... what all needs replaced? i know the distributor with vaccum advance, and a carb without sensors anything else? im gonna elimanate the wiring to.. have no emmissions so wanna get rid of it any help would be great thanks.....
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Center Valley, PA
Car: 88 Monte Carlo
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Really Tall ones. Probably 2.73's
the est unplugged!? that will make the car run like total s**t too. thats 0 spark advance, guarunteed.
the computer is retarding the timing for a reason. whether it's actually spark knock, bad knock sensor, or bad ecm, is the question. find out why. test voltage at the sensor. test the sensor resistance. lightly tap around the area to see if the timing retards/ resistance changes. test for voltage at the ecm. test for proper est voltage.
removing all the emissions equipment isnt always the cheapest way to go either. but if thats what you are set to do, then remove the wiring harnes. its quite easy w/o mutilating it and leaving lots of hot wires all over the engine bay. plus, it may be valuable to the right person. then its pretty simple from there. make sure you save wires like the temp gauge sender, oil press. sender, and starter/alternator/ignition power. get a non cc carb, mech/vac advance dizzy, time it, and your set.
the computer is retarding the timing for a reason. whether it's actually spark knock, bad knock sensor, or bad ecm, is the question. find out why. test voltage at the sensor. test the sensor resistance. lightly tap around the area to see if the timing retards/ resistance changes. test for voltage at the ecm. test for proper est voltage.
removing all the emissions equipment isnt always the cheapest way to go either. but if thats what you are set to do, then remove the wiring harnes. its quite easy w/o mutilating it and leaving lots of hot wires all over the engine bay. plus, it may be valuable to the right person. then its pretty simple from there. make sure you save wires like the temp gauge sender, oil press. sender, and starter/alternator/ignition power. get a non cc carb, mech/vac advance dizzy, time it, and your set.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
On that non cc carb, make sure you have the same size jets and be prepared to change the plugs about evry 30K mi. or less. If I were you I would try and work around the harness and just disconnect the power lead to the comp.
You might not like what you get and want to go back to the comp. or, get your hand shaked by the next owner. Have you checked the trouble codes to find out what's wrong? Could just be a simple sensor replacement holding you back! or even a bad vacuum line going to the EGR or MAP. I feel your pain and even contimplated doing the same thing to my TBI system but before jumping on it with both feet decided to try and work with the system. After replacing the 02, and EGR valve and solinoid, all is good and runs great. Probably better than what your contimplating without changing anything more than the carb and dizzy.
You might not like what you get and want to go back to the comp. or, get your hand shaked by the next owner. Have you checked the trouble codes to find out what's wrong? Could just be a simple sensor replacement holding you back! or even a bad vacuum line going to the EGR or MAP. I feel your pain and even contimplated doing the same thing to my TBI system but before jumping on it with both feet decided to try and work with the system. After replacing the 02, and EGR valve and solinoid, all is good and runs great. Probably better than what your contimplating without changing anything more than the carb and dizzy.
Last edited by sqzbox; Sep 25, 2006 at 09:40 AM. Reason: add. info
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
i dont know how to check the trouble codes... how do i?? how do i know if something is bad like the sensors? o2 sensor?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,054
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From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Do this for me. Go to Auto Zone and P/U a Haynes maual for 15 bucks and read through the section for emitions and sensors. It will give you all the info you need, even trouble codes, how to read the blinks of the SES light, sensor idenification, and location, and tests to determin if they are working. It will be well worth the money. To extract the codes is a simple grounding of 1 terminal on your ALDL connector underneath the steering wheel under the dash. The book will give you a wealth of info you can use long afterwards and more that I have time to write down for you. Do this, and you will thank me later! The manual should be 82-92 camaro.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Do this for me. Go to Auto Zone and P/U a Haynes maual for 15 bucks and read through the section for emitions and sensors. It will give you all the info you need, even trouble codes, how to read the blinks of the SES light, sensor idenification, and location, and tests to determin if they are working. It will be well worth the money. To extract the codes is a simple grounding of 1 terminal on your ALDL connector underneath the steering wheel under the dash. The book will give you a wealth of info you can use long afterwards and more that I have time to write down for you. Do this, and you will thank me later! The manual should be 82-92 camaro.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
On the diagram in your manual of the ALDL connector, use anything metal (wire, paper clip works best) stick one end in the A term. and the other in the B term. turn on your key and watch the SES light. Use a pencil and paper to write down any codes that you read for memory's sake. The first code will be 1 blink for #1 then a slight pause and then 2 blinks for 2. this is code 12. You will see this 3 times and then the trouble codes if any will start. For example; three blinks pause then two more would be code 32. This code will blink 3 times. If there are any more codes, they will start next example; six blinks pause the 1 blink would be code 61 which will also blink 3 times for each code. After all trouble codes have blinked, code 12 will stat blinking again to show that all codes have been read. Your manual will have the trouble codes in it and just look them up. The codes are not all cut and dried only problems. Some codes relate to different circmstances and problems and sometimes the need to post Q's in different forums here will help understand what is going on if your unable to figure it out. I got a code 54 once and wasn't sure what the problem was and after posting the code on the TBI forum I was directed to check the fuel pressure before replacing every thing first. Good idea! the pump was only puting out 7 1/2 lbs pressure and a new fuel pump was all I needed.
Hope this helps ya!
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
On the diagram in your manual of the ALDL connector, use anything metal (wire, paper clip works best) stick one end in the A term. and the other in the B term. turn on your key and watch the SES light. Use a pencil and paper to write down any codes that you read for memory's sake. The first code will be 1 blink for #1 then a slight pause and then 2 blinks for 2. this is code 12. You will see this 3 times and then the trouble codes if any will start. For example; three blinks pause then two more would be code 32. This code will blink 3 times. If there are any more codes, they will start next example; six blinks pause the 1 blink would be code 61 which will also blink 3 times for each code. After all trouble codes have blinked, code 12 will stat blinking again to show that all codes have been read. Your manual will have the trouble codes in it and just look them up. The codes are not all cut and dried only problems. Some codes relate to different circmstances and problems and sometimes the need to post Q's in different forums here will help understand what is going on if your unable to figure it out. I got a code 54 once and wasn't sure what the problem was and after posting the code on the TBI forum I was directed to check the fuel pressure before replacing every thing first. Good idea! the pump was only puting out 7 1/2 lbs pressure and a new fuel pump was all I needed.
Hope this helps ya!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Supreme Member
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
ok, make sure you're jumping the top left, and the top, 2nd from the left (that right guys?)
jump with a paperclip, or 18-22AWG fork connector. <-- my preference
do this WITH THE CAR OFF, BUT KEYS TURNED TO ON. This is pretty critical.
you say your check engine light is coming on, well good, now lets find out why.
ps. you have no luck at all.
jump with a paperclip, or 18-22AWG fork connector. <-- my preference
do this WITH THE CAR OFF, BUT KEYS TURNED TO ON. This is pretty critical.
you say your check engine light is coming on, well good, now lets find out why.
ps. you have no luck at all.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Aw sheet! you tellin' me their different on a camaro? Pontiac has the A-B term. on the top right. What does your chevy manual say? In emissions control systems section, it will tell you the term. locations to ground for code extraction. Check that!
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
?
whoa, I was going by memory, I have a pontiac too...
I just know it's two, side by side, on the top row. Ok, go for top right then. It'll say in the manual billybob...
whoa, I was going by memory, I have a pontiac too...
I just know it's two, side by side, on the top row. Ok, go for top right then. It'll say in the manual billybob...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 1
From: alliance, ohio
Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
i tryed it and the check engine light stays solid with paper clip in... am i doin sumthin wrong or should i go find a four leaf clover?:0
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Branch, In.
Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Ignition off, insert clip, turn key on, SES light should blink. DO NOT start engine with clip in. If it's not blinking, you have a computer problem.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,121
Likes: 0
From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
Basically your connector will look like
---------------------
| | | | | B | A |
---------------------
| | | | | | |
---------------------
that is what the book says.... Pin B is for the Diagnostic and Pin A is the system ground...
Thats how they say to do it anyhow
85+ there were a bunch of revisions to things including sensors and such...
---------------------
| | | | | B | A |
---------------------
| | | | | | |
---------------------
that is what the book says.... Pin B is for the Diagnostic and Pin A is the system ground...
Thats how they say to do it anyhow
85+ there were a bunch of revisions to things including sensors and such...
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