Hey I want to take my engine block to a shop to get it magnafluxed, he says to pull the pistons and crank and bring him the block and main caps. So my question is how do I get the pistons out, I know keep everything matched up and numbered, but for the pistons how do i get them out of thier bores, the rings dont slide out. do i have to hone the top lip? i dont want to wreck my block even if it is a 2 bolt main

thanks

 

The pistons & rings just slide out the top of the block once the rods are unbolted.

Existing rings cannot be re-used, if they've been run; if you take them out, they'll have to be replaced. At least, if you want them to seal (want the engine to run good with no blowby and/or oil burning).

If there's a lip, then any rings you put back in without boring the block to make the cyls straight again, will not work.

Given that, your existing pistons cannot be re-used.

Given that, all you have, is 8 rods with some garbage stuck to them; and it doesn't matter which one is which. Numbering is not important, as long as you keep the right cap on the right rod.

Magnaflux a procedure for finding cracks. If this block is one you've had, and has no sign of cracks now, it is a waste of time and money.

You don't have to have the caps magged, unless you think one might be cracked.

Why are you wanting to do this? Start with the basics: don't talk about killing the alligators just yet, or even draining the swamp; talk about what you plan on doing with the land. Then once the big picture is established, work inward towards the details.

 

You can clean up the top of the bore with a ridge reamer, or just have your machinist remove the pistons.

 

No, not true, I've seen heads and blocks that looked fine until we magnafluxed them/it and like magic there were cracks that you could not see. Thats my there is magnufluxing so the u can double check your motor. Your eyes can decieve you, spend the money and maagnuflux.

If you were asking how to take the pistons off the Connecting rods, you just use a hydraulic press, but have a shop do it they have the correct tools, and equipment along with procedures. And the better way to remove the pistons fromthe block is to first remove the crank journals/caps then the caps of the rods then the crank then pull through the bottom of the block, now make sure you or someone around you holds the piston just incase it drops out the top of the block while its upside down.

Oh and Always keep your pistons in order, never take them out of order cause if you were trying to diagnose a problem for a perticular cylinder and you wanted to check to see what the piston top looked like and grabbed the wrong one. You'd miss diagnose the engine and could cost you money if you were working at a shop.

Good Luck and anyquestions PM me man i've done this a few times
Nick

 

Magging a block is only worthwhile for blocks you have never had, or seen, running.

If this is the motor that's been in the car, and it hasn't been showing signs of cracks, then magging it is a waste of money.

You mag blocks you've never seen before, or that you know have been abused, and have no clue whether they might be cracked or not or you suspect that they might be. You don't mag known-good ones.

Unless you're just REALLY REALLY FOND of your machinist, there's no reason to pay for this service, for a known good block; you're just spending money and getting nothing in return except maybe a warm fuzzy feeling.

 

i'm new to the whole building a motor thing. ive got a 305 that runs sub par, 16s quarters there no take off speed because the tbi chip tune is off (too rich) ive wanted to build a motor anyways. I have two constrainst, strret functionality and cost. I want 350 whp that gets average gas millage. cost is not more than $1500 MAX.

I have a 350 from a 89-93 camaro 2 bolt main, theres deff a lip around the top of the bores because the pistons wont go out the top, i tried. i was going to magnaflux it because it has a head gasket leak before i got it and the engine stand tipped over durring transport, landed on some wood.

As far as a build I have a Ex-Dirt track racer that is willing to help me. he has built 8-9 375 hp motors for his race cars.

I've also been reading some chevy books on engine builds and I see there are endless options, most listed in the books are 3-5k builds. Can anyone here send me a list of parts to throw togeather thats within my budget. This block doesn't have to be the one i build either. I'm open to any options.

Parts I have, TBI setup from a 91 (installed now) on a 83 z28
650 holley dp with torquer 2 intake.

I also need a new fuel pump so carb or TBI I will replace the fuel pump so either wil work.

 

I'd say its better to be safe then sorry

 

yah man, especialy since you just stated that the head gasket was leaking i'd have it magnafluxed, and since its been semi dropped. As far as 1500 dollar parts for a rebuild. Don't go cheap on the parts you put in your motor man they'll wear faster. And juck the TBI man slap a carb in there and you'll get more HP IMO

 

so i use the carb and intake, how about the block, any recomends on lifters, rods, cam, heads, ect. arp bolts/studs are a for sure. how much power can stock pistons and rods handle. should those be replaced. my goal is 350-375 whp NA

 

replace the pistons annd rods, have the crank checked, Cam??? all depends on also what stall your running, and how sweet your exhuast sound you want. Whatever you do man don't go slapping aluminum heads on your cast block, pls don't do that. use the same intake, but i'd change the carb. I realy hhate qjets.

 

whats wrong with aluminum heads on a cast block

 

Nothing.

 

could i get some tech support on why, what difference it makes

 

I would like to know too.

 

Nothing is wrong with using aluminum heads on a cast-iron block.

Just like, magnafluxing a block that you know the history of and it didn't have symtpoms of a crack, is a waste of money.

And that goes DOUBLE for when you're trying to build a motor with an already unrealistically low budget, like you are.

And for that matter, the advice about "replace the rods", is off the mark too. Re-using the ones you have should be fine. Again, especially in light of the inadequate budget.

You don't build a motor for a "sweet exhaust sound". You build a motor that runs good, in the way that's important TO YOU; and the exhaust sounds like however it sounds.

I don't see a single piece of good advice in that post.

I'd recommend leaving the car carbed if it came that way, or using TBI if it was a CFI car. It'll cost you more to change over. Definitely though, if you go with a carb, DO NOT use that crappy T2 intake; those things have been garbage compared even to its own mfr's other products for the last 20 years. Sell that to some "greater fool" and get something better.

Take your block to your machinist, and have the ridge reamed out of it, to get the pistons out. If it has THAT MUCH wear, i.e. worn so deep you can't take it apart, then it'll have to be bored. Which of course means that you'll have to buy pistons.

Pistons come out through the top of the block, not the bottom.

Re-use the existing crank, just get it turned; and re-use the rods.

 

for some meaning full infomation. I have the tbi allready in the car so i might play with it a tbi 350 is supposta get good gas millage, as far as a carb i would use that intake only to save a few pennies untill i could upgrade. my shop will clean and mag the block for $40 so im not worried there, they know that more business will come. so i guess i'll see if the block is good and get a price on machiene work, then pick parts from there. any recomends on a killer intake for the money.

 

Edelbrock RPM Airgap.

 

summit, and professional products make some good edelbrock knockoff intakes, in the low $100 range.

Yea, you'll never get 350RWHP with $1600. No chance in hell.
That's over 400HP eh?

I spent $3500, I used a flat tappet cam, re-used crank, and got basic hyper pistons and basic rods. Factory heads, ported. You could probably re-create my combo for $2000 or so, if you shop around and are thrifty, but it's not a 400HP motor, maybe 350FWHP, if you're lucky.

Set you expectations low, or at least realistic, that way you will actually be happy when you come close to achieving them.

Magg'ing costs all of $30 or so. If you're doing a fair bit of machine work, he might throw it in. If you haven't personally run that motor before (have you?), then you have no idea what shape it is, i'd mag it. Chances are low that the block is actually cracked, but $30 is CHEEEP insurance.

That's good advice there. ARP rod bolts are ~$65 or so. plastigauge will get you through your first build (your buddy building the dirt motors may have some tools to help you out). Cheapo cast pistons will live up to 350FWHP. Some vortec heads, xe268 cam or the like. That'll bring you in the neighborhood of 350FWHP, and would cost in the range of $2500.