intake gasket help
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: poquoson, virginia
Car: 92 RS Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
intake gasket help
ive got a 92 lo3 that im in the process of rebuilding. i picked up an edelbrock performer intake for free that im going to use so im going to use an adapter plate for my tbi. my question is what intake manifold gaskets do i need? i have a set of felpros but both rear water passages have block off plates. will these work or not. if i remember correctly on the stock intake gaskets only one of the passages had a block off plate. is this the same for this new intake manifold?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: the earth
Car: used to have red 1991 camaro RS
Engine: with 305 TBI
Transmission: Borg Warner T-5
Axle/Gears: and 3.08 open 10 bolt
rear water passages, don't really matter. i think. does your intake have rear water passages on it? i have a very old eddy performer that doesn't have them. in any case. don't use the felpro's. i have found they do not seal well with aluminum intakes. go to NAPA and ask for a set of mid 70's sbc intake gasket's... get the red one's if you can. shouldn't be more than like $12 -$15. can't remember the p/n off hand. and only use the rtv glue on the front and rear of the block. the little rubber things don't seal well with aluminum intakes. i don't use them. good luck.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
When doing the gaskets - it's important to follow certain steps to make sure it seals - I know, I had to do mine 3 times.
1) Make sure both block and inatke are clean - scrape ALL of the old gasket material off, and clean both with brake cleaner and nothing else. Barke cleaner evaporates completely and leaves no residue like some other cleaners.
2) Throw out those rubber pieces mentioned above - they are trash.
3) Get the ultra black RTV - put a bead on the block side at front and rear - from the corners to the center (extra in corners).
4)Let this bead dry for like 2 hours.
5) Add a second bead on top of the first. Also, smear with finger some RTYv on the block side of the rest (the sides), and place the gaskets on (the rtv will help hold gaskets in place).
6) Place intake on carefully as to not move gasket. Insert and start threading bolts, BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN! Just let the weight of the intake do the work for about 15 minutes.
7) Follow the bolt pattern and tighten the intake bolts evenly and to spec with torque wrench.
8) DO NOT START CAR! Let it sit overnight at least, if not 24 hours - allowing the RTV to fully dry and cure - otherwise you'll blow out the soft RTV with the pressure on the first crank, and you'll have to redo it.
You can bolt the rest of the goods in place (adapter, TBI unit, etc.) - just don't start it until after 12-24 hours, depending on temps, humidity, etc.
This will most certainly provide success - I learned the hard way lol.
1) Make sure both block and inatke are clean - scrape ALL of the old gasket material off, and clean both with brake cleaner and nothing else. Barke cleaner evaporates completely and leaves no residue like some other cleaners.
2) Throw out those rubber pieces mentioned above - they are trash.
3) Get the ultra black RTV - put a bead on the block side at front and rear - from the corners to the center (extra in corners).
4)Let this bead dry for like 2 hours.
5) Add a second bead on top of the first. Also, smear with finger some RTYv on the block side of the rest (the sides), and place the gaskets on (the rtv will help hold gaskets in place).
6) Place intake on carefully as to not move gasket. Insert and start threading bolts, BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN! Just let the weight of the intake do the work for about 15 minutes.
7) Follow the bolt pattern and tighten the intake bolts evenly and to spec with torque wrench.
8) DO NOT START CAR! Let it sit overnight at least, if not 24 hours - allowing the RTV to fully dry and cure - otherwise you'll blow out the soft RTV with the pressure on the first crank, and you'll have to redo it.
You can bolt the rest of the goods in place (adapter, TBI unit, etc.) - just don't start it until after 12-24 hours, depending on temps, humidity, etc.
This will most certainly provide success - I learned the hard way lol.
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