I was wondering what do I need to do to swap out my CC QJET and DIST for a non CC carb and dist? what parts do i need? what other stuff do i have to change because of this? Do I have to remove all of the emission stuff? sensor egr vavle and that kind of stuff. Could I leave teh cp hooked up? if I left teh other sensors hooked up would it affected teh way My car ran I guess the check engine light would be on (at alter date I may remove teh other sensors but at first i would like to leave it on so i could swap the cc stuff back on if need be)What are teh pros and cons of this swap? all info would be great.

Any suggestions on carb a dist brand and model to swap in? I was thinking about either aholley 670 street avenger or a edelbrock carb in the 600 to 650 range.
msd, malloy or a accel dist vac controlled

thanks

P.S the car is a86 Z28 with a GM 350 replacment motor,headers cat back exhaust msd 6al perfromer intake and a few other little things.

 

That is real easy,All you need is any non cc dist with vac advance,you can buy a brand new mallory (8548201c) on ebay for $104.00 and it comes complete with coil.If you have the preformer manifold you might need a adapter plate,I assume it is a spread bore manifold and you can buy a spreadbore carb but it will limit you in the future if you want something more radical.They sell block off plates for your egr but save your money,if your going to eliminate the egr just weld up the holes in your stock egr spacer and bolt that back on (assuming you or a buddy has a welder).If your local laws alow you to I would get rid of all your emission stuff,You will make more power and loose weight.I would go with a edelbrock performer 600 carb If I were you they are real easy to tune.If you dont have much experience with holly they can be a bit tougher.I see you have the wc 5 speed,thats good you wont have to worry about getting a 4th gear lock up switch like you would if you had the 700r4 and were getting rid of the computer.Good luck.Buy the way what are the rancho limiter straps for?you takeing this thing off roading?

 

Don't have to worry much about a lock-up switch with a T5.

Forget the Performer and Avenger carbs. You want a double pumper, a Holley 650 would be a pretty good choice.

 

I already have a performer intake, should the holley or edelbrock carbs bolt right to it? are they the same pattern as the q jet? If I need to are the spacer paltes a good way to go? I would hate to buy a new intake.

why forget about the carbs I listed? is the double pumper that much better? is it going to use more fuel?

the limiter strapes hook to the body and they to the rear control arm, it keeps the rear springs in place if the rear comes to high ( on a lowered car they could come out dout full but could happen it also does not let the car roll as much.

 

Your O2 sensor and a few other sensors can go, as they aren't providing any useful signal. The ECM is dead weight now, so you can toss it, and a bunch of wiring.
I've only got the oil pressure sensor, and coolant sensor hooked up, since they go to gauges, and not the ECM. There's another coolant sensor that plugs into the PASSENGER SIDE of the block, that one goes to the ECM, so it can be removed.

The double pumper will give you significantly better performance with your stickshift. Fuel mileage won't be noticeably effected, except during "spirited driving" in which case you'll be able to watch your gas needle go downwards.

 

I was speaking of the Edelbrock Performer carb, not the intake manifold. Sorry, should have been more specific.

The Performer intake has bolt patterns both for the q-jet (spreadbore) and Holley/Edelbrock (squarebore). It's fine for what you're doing.

The double pumper is much, much better than the q-jet, Edelbrock Performer, or Holley Street Avenger (or any vacuum secondary Holley) with a manual transmission. It won't use any more fuel as long as you keep your foot out of it and have it properly tuned.

No aftermarket carb is going to be quite as easy on fuel as the q-jet was, at any rate. The only reason I didn't say "Save your money and keep the q-jet" is that you have a manual transmission. And don't expect any more power out of an aftermarket carb - the stock q-jet is quite capable of making as much power on that engine as any carb can. If you wanted the most power for the least money, then go ahead and change the intake manifold, but the carb is not what's limiting power.

 

After removing the carb and intake and replacing it with a non cc set up, the cp does not matter any more correct? if it is throwing codes they would have no affect on the way the engine runs? what could I take off at that point? could i leave it on if I wanted to? there is the stuff by the thermo stat the egr vavle and stuff like that. Any info would be great.
I can get the street avenger 670 for $200, are teh other carbs worth the extra money? thanks

 

Scrap it all,if you run a non cc carb and dist it all can go.Like the guy above said just make sure you dont cut the wires to your gauges.The coolant sensor he is talking abot in the side of your motor on the pass side head does go to the computer however it also turnes on your elec fan if you have a elec fan.Painless makes a kit cheep to replace that.You can get it in 2 or 3 temp ranges so it turnes your fan on sooner.The carb you buy all dependes on what you want to do with the car.Your motor has to be able to use the all the fuel you are puting to it or it will actually cost you hp.I still say edelbrock is the way to go for you.Take it out of the box and set the idel and you are good to go.I run a bg speed deamon 750.Ita s lot of carb but I have a lot of motor.

 

So the sensors that stick out of the manifold and the o2 knock and all that stuff is no longer used, I can either leave it or take it off? do they sell kits that I can use to block off the egr, and plug the intake, where those sensors went? the carcoal caister is not need any more either? What about the electric fan what options do i have? if I leave it hooked up the ecm will it still work with the other stuff disconnected? what else could I do?thanks

 

Get rid of it it is all dead weight.As I said before the egr edelbrock makes a plate to block it off if you dont want to fab somthing yourself.Your o2 sensor will be useless unless you want to hook a air/fuel gauge to it.the knock sensor will be of no use to you,just plug it off or leave it in for now it wont be in the way of anything.Use a painless wiring kit for your elec fan it is the cleanest and easyst way.The only line you might want to leave to your charcoal canister is the larger line coning from your gas tank.You just have to commit to it and tear into it.It might seem overwelming but trust me there is nothing to it.Buy the way do yourself a favor before you pull your dist set the motor at tdc or at least mark your rotor position so you can just drop in the replacment.

 

1320-camaro-383 I am listening I just want to have everything covered be fore I start.

I have ajet 180 fan switch now, that works with my cp set up, can I just leave it in there and leave teh cecm hooked to it?will it still work or do i need to re wire it?
any ideas on the size of the pipe plugs I would need?
are there 2 sensors in the t stat houseing?(my car is put away inmy garage and it is all covered up or i could answer teh last my self)
Can i leave the carcoal canister hooked up? I prbably will leave teh knock sensor in the block.
I don't want to remove alot at first just in case I want to go back to the cc set up so there should be no harm done by leave ing that stuff hooked up besides a ses light right?

 

In my experience you are best off getting rid of the ecm all together as long as your local laws alowes you to.Most states you are fine doing so in a 86.I know it sucks having to scrap a nice piece like the jet switch you already bought but trust me do it right and do it once,it will save you time and money in the long run.You can resell your switch on ebay.The painless kit you need is prf-30102 it costs 59.88 in summit thats a 200 on and 180 off kit.They also make a 185 on and 170 off which sounds better but in the summer in most areas your fan will be on constantlly with that one so go with the # I gave you.It is super easy to install.Im not sure of the npt size plugs you need the best thing to do is bring the item your blocking off into a hardware store and match it uo,they usually only have brass but you can take that info and buy some aluminum ones from summit or wherever.The best thing you can do is replace your thermostat housing with crome or aluminum one.It will clean up the manifold and you can buy a nice summit aluminum swival one for 13.95 # sum-371100.It is a 45 degree housing,its what I have.If your looking for hp and again if you wont have a problem inspecting the car get rid of the smog pump if you havent already I see you have headers not knowing if there smog headers or not.If you want to keep the option open just tuck all the wires down into the pass sise fender where they go the the ecm.I think once you go cc less you wont want to go back though.You might not see a hugh jump in power just by changing those 2 items but it opens up a lot more possibilitys for the futer without having the computer hold you back.Have you decided what carb you are going with?Hollys make more power but edelbrock is great for the beginner and make good power also.If you have a spread bore manifold you can get a adapter for a square bore,the only reason I say that is if you want to step up to a rpm manifold or a higher performance manifold in the future a lot of them are available in square bore only.Again just make sure this is what you want to do,the only reason for doing all this in my opinion is if you want it to be the start of a more radical motor in the futer.Your not going to see much gains until you start changing your cam ,comp ratio,better flowing heads etc which is hard to do on the computers limitations.Oh yeah the charcoal canister either way wont make much differance leave it or not but I would leav it for the one hose that comes from the gas tank.

 

The '86 carb'd system didn't use the ECM for the radiator fan. You can keep that switch and the harnesses from the factory and it will all continue to work.

The ECM harnessing can be removed without cutting anything and without removing anything you need for a non-CC setup. You don't have to spend any money buying stuff from Painless. The ECM harness comes from the passenger compartment via a bulkhead connector at the passenger side kick panel. If you remove the passenger side plastic front wheelwell liner, the harness is easily accessible and can be disconnected by unscrewing one bolt. The rest of the harness can then be removed with the associated sensors, again without cutting any wires. Some harnessing may be wrapped with what you do need, but that's easy enough to separate out.

The ECM weighs a few ounces. Removing doesn't save anything. Removing the associated harnessing inside the passenger compartment will leave a hole in the kick panel. Sure, it might be easy enough to block off, but it's a lot less work just leaving everything on that side of the kick panel where it is.

Anything over a Performer intake will practically require a new engine. The Goodwrench replacement 350 does okay as it is, a cam upgrade makes it run a little better, but the heads will limit any further improvements. An RPM intake would work with the engine as it is, although overkill. But, it would support future upgrades. Since you already have the Performer intake, just stick with it.

Again, the Performer carb is a very poor choice for performance money. You might as well save the $'s and keep the q-jet. As I said, the only reason I entertained this change at all is that you have a manual transmission, and demand-based secondary carbs of any type do not work well with a manual transmission (and are especially counterindicated with a T5, which can't handle speed shifting). Either get a double pumper carb (Holley or Demon are your only choices, or knock-offs of them), or keep the q-jet.

If you insist on getting a Performer or VS carb, consider yourself cyberslapped

 

Well I can get a new holley 670 street avenger for $200, about 8 years ago I had picked a motor from summit when they used to build and sell there own, that had a 650 double pumper and it worked great, that motor had all of the emmission stuff removed, I sold that motor and stuck the 305 back in and then this motor that I have in there now. I had to figure out where all the vac and wires went again, so this time i just want to tuck the stuff out of the way.And the fan did run still work. That summit motor ran great I have no idea why I sold it but I did.

I am replacing this stuff do to a after fire though the exhaust that I have chased for years and spent a fortune I have tracked it down to these to areas, I disconnected the 4 wire conector that you use to set teh timeing and drove it and it went away. I have tried diffrent Q jets, stock rebuilds jet perf rebuilds and all where adjusted correctly and nothing helped, i played witht he timeing and still nothing. So i figrued I will go this way.