How to clean heads?
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From: Buckley AFB, CO / Crestview, FL
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 02 WS6 Rear w/3:42
How to clean heads?
Im putting a new cam and some valve springs in my car. I decided to do the headgaskets and seals why I am down here. I pulled the heads off today (what a pain in the a**) and here is what they look like. Is there a way I can clean the valves? What should I use to clean them?


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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
How far do you want to go with this? You could take the heads to a machine shop and have them dipped, but that would require total disassembly of the heads.
If you just want to get them clean enough that you won't have any problems with reassembly of the engine, then some brake cleaner and a rotary tool with a soft polishing brush (looks like its made of felt usually) will be what you want. You'll want to clean the mating surfaces on the heads like this (the surfaces for the block and intake manifold are most important) as well as the same surfaces on the engine block and the intake manifold. That will help greatly in getting a good seal with your new gaskets.
If you just want to get them clean enough that you won't have any problems with reassembly of the engine, then some brake cleaner and a rotary tool with a soft polishing brush (looks like its made of felt usually) will be what you want. You'll want to clean the mating surfaces on the heads like this (the surfaces for the block and intake manifold are most important) as well as the same surfaces on the engine block and the intake manifold. That will help greatly in getting a good seal with your new gaskets.
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From: Mobile, AL
Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
rotary wheels like 3M work like you wouldn't believe... but if you do not want to use it "gasket remover" in a spray will eat up carbon easily.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
those are heinous. I highly HIGHLY recommend you disassemble them and get them hottanked. It's only like $40 for that, and they come out looking brand new. They bead blasted mine for me as well, hence the gorgeousness of them.
Oh, and new valve seals while you're there obviously.
Then if you've got the time, bust out a die grinder and go to town.
You could try an oven cleaner or the like, but i've never found any chemical at home that would put a dent in that kind of dirt, compared to a hottanking.
"gasket remover" nelapse you say? Have you used it to dissolve grease and grime like this and it worked? I've gotta try some of that!
Oh, and new valve seals while you're there obviously.
Then if you've got the time, bust out a die grinder and go to town.

You could try an oven cleaner or the like, but i've never found any chemical at home that would put a dent in that kind of dirt, compared to a hottanking.
"gasket remover" nelapse you say? Have you used it to dissolve grease and grime like this and it worked? I've gotta try some of that!
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iTrader: (17)
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Buckley AFB, CO / Crestview, FL
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 02 WS6 Rear w/3:42
those are heinous. I highly HIGHLY recommend you disassemble them and get them hottanked. It's only like $40 for that, and they come out looking brand new. They bead blasted mine for me as well, hence the gorgeousness of them.
Oh, and new valve seals while you're there obviously.
Then if you've got the time, bust out a die grinder and go to town.
You could try an oven cleaner or the like, but i've never found any chemical at home that would put a dent in that kind of dirt, compared to a hottanking.
"gasket remover" nelapse you say? Have you used it to dissolve grease and grime like this and it worked? I've gotta try some of that!
Oh, and new valve seals while you're there obviously.
Then if you've got the time, bust out a die grinder and go to town.

You could try an oven cleaner or the like, but i've never found any chemical at home that would put a dent in that kind of dirt, compared to a hottanking.
"gasket remover" nelapse you say? Have you used it to dissolve grease and grime like this and it worked? I've gotta try some of that!
What other things should I consider getting done to the heads while they are at the machine shop? This car is my dd but I don't mind taking the time to do things right. Hopefully I remember how to put everything together though
My bro and I have been working on it since Saturday. Last edited by Zrated83; Jan 15, 2007 at 01:18 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
If you've got some time and cash, (since the hot tanking is freakin' $20!!), get 'em to do the valves at the same time if possible. (hot tank that is)
Check the guide wear. If you've got calipers you can check it, or the machinist can do it for you in about 30 seconds if he's got your valves. You can get thick walled bronze guides put in for.... Well heck, I won't guess the price, you can find out for yourself. Excessive guide wear can cut back 10-15hp.
I'd port the bowls a bit, if you've got a die grinder. This is highly recommended. The bowls can be done fairly quickly, and give the most bang for the buck as far as porting goes. Leave the ports alone, port matching is for wussies
Check the head deck for flatness with a steel straight edge, or, again, let the machinist do it. Decking them might run ya $70 or something, but it'll assure you'll get your new head gaskets to seal right, and bring back your CR if you're going from a thin steel to a composite head gasket.
Check the guide wear. If you've got calipers you can check it, or the machinist can do it for you in about 30 seconds if he's got your valves. You can get thick walled bronze guides put in for.... Well heck, I won't guess the price, you can find out for yourself. Excessive guide wear can cut back 10-15hp.
I'd port the bowls a bit, if you've got a die grinder. This is highly recommended. The bowls can be done fairly quickly, and give the most bang for the buck as far as porting goes. Leave the ports alone, port matching is for wussies

Check the head deck for flatness with a steel straight edge, or, again, let the machinist do it. Decking them might run ya $70 or something, but it'll assure you'll get your new head gaskets to seal right, and bring back your CR if you're going from a thin steel to a composite head gasket.
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iTrader: (17)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,716
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From: Mobile, AL
Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Yeah sonix, gasket remover is hardcore. Spray it on some nasty valves or heck anything greasy, it bubbles up and sizzles... you are just watching it cool whatever is on the metal.
Takes paint off instantly too
Takes paint off instantly too
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