I just bought a 89 TA. It came with a 305 tpi the hilbillies Ibought it from did a motor swap to a 350 tpi. She runs great good oil pres and so on. The motor is from a car of the same year so on to my headache. It was boging and getting valve rattle when i got it so i reset base timing no more rattle only now it will not pull beyond 4000 and sounded constricted replaced the cat with a test pipe no help. Found damaged vacume lines repaired those and it seems to have made the problem worse somehow. Overall it runs well no surging or crazy fuel use or check engine. I just don't get it please help before i throw a bucket of money at this thing trying to fix a easy problem!

 

You are right, it is a super easy fix. You forgot to disconnect the connector on the passenger side firewall that allows you to change base timing. That is why you cannot pull past 4k

Also, you need to make sure you have a 350 knock sensor.

P.S. Welcome to the boards.

 

Thanks so much I'll try again when i get back around the shop mon. If thats not the fix i'll come with more info.

 

Ok i got the time set and its running a ton better. It still seems to really run out of steam around 4800 this may be normal for a 350 tpi car. Just curious My last car was a 305 tpi with a much higher power band around 5600 for the nosedive. Is this the normal area for playout on a 350 car. Also the motor swap mentioned earlier the 350 what i think is an oil cooler that is not conected.... Looks like 2 nipples for 3/4 heater hose maybe between the oil filter and block some help with the routing would be a great help as i see no real reason why this should be disconected other than the 305 wouldnt have had it. Also i need a good vacume diagram any hints on the best handbook for these cars? Thanks!

 

i think 4800 is fairly normal for an l98.

 

ive got a 350 crate engine from gm with aftermarket base, runners, ported plenum and bigger TB and it falls flat on its face at 5200. noticed that when i was getting it tuned, it just couldnt pullenough air to keep up with the fuel. so if you have all stock tpi stuff, it would definatly be lower than 5200

 

I haven't been on in a while, and came across your post. The wrong knock sensor will retard your spark advance. Just curious, but do you know what type of PROM is in the ECM?

 

Well i got this problem fixed turns out they didn't unplug the dist when the set the timing. I unpluged it and reset it plus corecting some wrong vac line conections got it running on point. Just picked up a new one i'm a little stumped by, i have a weird miss in and out like a secondary miss so i changed the plugs and wires cap and rotor with no luck. No codes so i'm stumped as i said before i dont know if the coil is going down the craper or what but i gotta get a little time this week to dig deeper and see what i can find i'll give more as i find more broken hillbilly stuff!

 

Did I call it or what?

Anyways, it may be time for a new set of wires. If not, what kind of plugs are you using? Precious metal plugs run like crap in TPI from my experiance, the bosch supers work awesome.

Did you get a 350 knock sensor yet?

 

Yeah i took care of the knock sensor as well. I'm running ac delco just put em in this week after the new problem started. And yes you hit the nail on the head man thanks! Today i went out to try and troubleshoot my new problem and she wouldn't even idle missing like crazy and rich enough for a out of fuel car to run off the exaust!! so i checked the tps it checked good. No fuel in the vac line for the pres regulator and the pump sounds good but i don't have a tool to check the pres at the rail nor do i have any real way to check the injectors. I also didn't get to check the iac because the weather went to hell on me. This seems like an electrical problem to me because it came suddenly and i still haven't got any codes from it. another thing i noticed was that the coil is lose in the holder how prone are these guys to taking a ****? Thanks in advance for any help i know its not much info to go on but thats why i'm stumped..

 

You might also want to check the injectors' part numbers. That will identify whether they are the original 19# units or something more appropriate for a 350.

 

Carnutcava and NicksToyTA are both in RLB with 89 TA's with the same problem? Interesting.
Is it an aftermarket coil? Stock coil's should be riveted. They don't tend to go out.
Did you put the wires back on correctly? That could cause a lot of your symptoms.

 

yeah i got the wires on right the car was running like a champ and this came on suddenly wile i was driving down to chi friday. as for the injectors they are the units that were in the 350 when they pulled it from the other car it was a full swap however it dose have a 3 replacements in one rail. and yeah due to it taking several days of my car nut cava account to get unlocked after i changed the e-mail i just opened another account because i needed some answers in a hurry plus like alot of F-body owners i'm not the one to wait around ha ha.

 

You could test the coil. There are 3 tests. Do you have some sort of manual? Also you could have the ignition module tested at AZ or Advance for free.
Hillbillies. Ha Ha. Did they have ******s?

 

No i haven't picked up a manual yet plan to do that this weekend when i get the car in the garage and can get started really getting into it. I'll get out the mod and have it tested an i got another set of wires from my parts guys in case the ones they got me are bunk. and i'll try to get the part numbers for the injectors but i'm almost positive they are correct becuse i felt no inbalance befor this all started. In the case that i do have bad injectors i'll buy a full rack. would now be the time to upgrade to a larger injector or will it cause drivability problems with a near stock engine?

 

Why does your new profile say your car is a GTA, but your old one says it's a TA?

 

Why dose your profile say Turbo 700R4 ?

 

You should be fine if you get 22lb injectors. 24's may run you a little rich but not excessively. Didn't notice that you most likely still have the 305 programming. You will need to burn a chip if you go up to 24's. 22's are then marginal. I believe the ECM can compensate for a 16% difference in injector size.

TH700R-4. Turbo Hydramatic

 

Yeah i know its a turbo hydro but i thought we were just passing some irrelevant questions around. As for the Ta and Gta i'm not sure what the damn car is it has gta badges externaly but none of the goodies inside so from day to day i say this or that..... Guess i could look at the title huh? And it dose have the 350 burn in it they took everything from the other car but the fuel pump and tank.

 

ok got out tonight changed the wires... bad wire set ran fine after. Checked the injectors number 5 is way off ohmed at 3 wile all the rest are at 16.9 or so. I'll be changing the whole rack in a month or so as soon as funds agree i guess. when i went to leave the whole car died on me like a fuse link burned or somthing but i couldn't find a problem no power anywere. this car hates me. Its worse than the junky ferraries i fix day to day but i still love it. i guess i'll bla bla more on it tom sometime. And thanks for the help everyone! I'll keep you updated.