my car still runs for 10 mins untill it warms up and then shuts off and wont start back up untill 20-30 mins.had it checked as soon as it shuts off and it has no spark then 20-30 mins later fires right up.car sounds and runs good for 10-15 mins new distibutor-cap-rotor-pick up coil-module any help?

 

oh thats a good one.... Im stumped, maby computer/sensor?

 

That makes it sound as if you have 20-30 minutes between running events to determine if there is voltage to the coil and distributor, whether there is a pickup (reference) signal from the distributor, and what the VATS is doing.

You might also want to disconnect the tach wire at the coil during the diagnosis to make sure that isn't a problem.

 

will a ignition module or a ignition coil test good when cold and test bad when warm? thanks for the info vader but i wish i understood it more.i know a little about these cars but im not good at fixing them myself.if what you are saying is the problem after i have that checked what would be the fix? thanks

 

what kind of dis. is it?

 

yes the module will i think i have said this...BEFORE... maybe it is just me

replace the module to start it is cheap enough

 

accel distibutors have saftey shut off if the module gets to hot.Dont know if GM,s are like this.Do u have diolectrod grease on the bottom of module?
with out it dis transfer too much heat.

 

well the module is what generates the heat and it is thermal compound not di-electric grease helps transfer heat from the module to the dist base

also why they are prone to heat falure they generate so much heat that the need a very warm dist to cool them

 

we are going to put a new module in sunday but the distributor i bought had the module already on it and i had a guy i knew that works for a chevy dealer put it in.. does the grease already come on the module since it came on the distributor or would you still have to put it on? what i dont get is if it is the module failing when the car warms up then why if i go out and restart the car after it dies it fires right up and runs untill i shut it off..the rpms go from 1000 to 750 up and down up and down but it wont die...then i shut it off after the car gets to 200 degrees and then i restart it over and over with no problem so why will it die when it heats up but will restart hot..does not make since to me at all thanks

 

hey man we can only work with what you give us so now it will start up instantly after it stalls? but i still stick with the module unless there is something else you havent mentioned

 

sounds like the coil to me

 

sorry about that SpitotRs305 my bad.... i really appreciate the help!!! i meant that after it dies it wont start up untill i let it sit for 30 mins but after 30 mins i can start it up and it will run untill i shut it off? my question is if is something going bad when the car gets warm why can i start it back up after 30 mins and let it run without it shutting off its self i can let it get up to around 200 degrees then shut it off and restart it over and over while its hot with no problem other then a drop in rpms but it wont die thanks for all the help!!!

 

well i would say that the drop in rpms could be caused by the module

 

i put in a new ignition coil and new module today and i still have the same problem...checked the tach wire and its not the problem...any more suggestions before i take it in thanks

 

could it be the ignition switch or map sensor? well now the car did what it did once before it wont restart back up..last time that happened a new distributor went in and it started right up and ran great for 2 days then back to shutting off and restating 30 mins later

 

i had a similar problem. check by the throddle body. there is 2 electronic sensors on it and one on the intake manifold base next to a small piece of heater hose. check those out cause sometimes the plastic connectors hold down tabs break off and they come loose. thats what mine turned out to be.