how much horse power?
how much horse power?
How much horse approx would a 305 with forged pistons bore over a decent amount,also forged rods,a mild cam,no bolt-ons or anthing like that and its carberated, the motors all stock besides internal, all external stock how much horse would it be making?
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
im asking how much horse will it have approxemently with the internal built but the external is not, heads are stock,headers are stock everything besides internal how much horse approx will it have as it stands with no external engine parts , its a chevy 305 from the mid 70's recently rebuilt.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Well stock cams can be considered "mild", so without actual cam specs no power gain could be estimated there. You haven't said if there's any compression change with the new pistons, so no power gain there either.
You did say that the pistons are forged though, which means they're probably heavier than stock so the increase in reciprocating mass would suggest that the engine would make less power than it did before the rebuild, all other things equal.
You did say that the pistons are forged though, which means they're probably heavier than stock so the increase in reciprocating mass would suggest that the engine would make less power than it did before the rebuild, all other things equal.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Intake and carb will get you next to nothing. Headers and exhaust will show some benefit though.
In general, good power comes from good heads (which any heads from the 70s most likely are not). Matching the cam to the heads ensures you've got a good powerband. The rest of the parts don't generally make you more power, they only cost you less.
In general, good power comes from good heads (which any heads from the 70s most likely are not). Matching the cam to the heads ensures you've got a good powerband. The rest of the parts don't generally make you more power, they only cost you less.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Well stated Apeiron.
The bottom end doesn't give you any power, so all the nice rotating parts only add durability, no HP. You'll need good flowing heads and a well suited cam to peg the HP number higher on the dyno.
'70's 305 heads are notorious for being crap. I think the '70's 305s were rated at or around 145HP. My '82 LG4 was 145HP, so I can only imagine a 70's one as being worse. So with your modifications, we can say around 125-130HP. Got beaten badly by any toyota echo's or anything yet?
Throw the roots blower on, or the 250HP nitrous shot and you'll be set
The bottom end doesn't give you any power, so all the nice rotating parts only add durability, no HP. You'll need good flowing heads and a well suited cam to peg the HP number higher on the dyno.
'70's 305 heads are notorious for being crap. I think the '70's 305s were rated at or around 145HP. My '82 LG4 was 145HP, so I can only imagine a 70's one as being worse. So with your modifications, we can say around 125-130HP. Got beaten badly by any toyota echo's or anything yet?

Throw the roots blower on, or the 250HP nitrous shot and you'll be set
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