383 timing marks????
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
383 timing marks????
Where should the dots on the timing chain set be for a stroker motor? I have been puting it how I have for every other motor and when I go to adjust the valves the intake #4&8 are always loose after I spin it over one time to do the other set of valves... Whats the deal here?
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
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Re: 383 timing marks????
or the press in studs are pulling out of the heads... how many times have you set them? more then 2 times? if you have then i doubt they are bleeding down
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
As already noted, being a 383 doesn't have anything to do with any issues you're having.
Dot-to-dot is the #6 firing position, so if you were adjusting assuming that was the #1 firing position, you'll never get them adjusted.
Dot-to-dot is the #6 firing position, so if you were adjusting assuming that was the #1 firing position, you'll never get them adjusted.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 383 timing marks????
I got them all adjusted and I think I have it figured out... Now I just have to get the car to start.. I have to look at it tomorrow and pull the dist cap off and see where its at on TDC.. Gotta love working on vehicles in your apartment parking lot at college.
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From: maine
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
Re: 383 timing marks????
QUOTE "when I go to adjust the valves the intake #4&8 are always loose after I spin it over one time" to do the other set of valves... Whats the deal here?
hydraulic lifters will bleed down once they have been set. set them once and move onto the next set. you cant keep going back to the ones you have adjusted because they will be loose again once the motor is turned around by hand. you need to have a procedure for adjusting the valves. pick one there is more than one way to do them.
hydraulic lifters will bleed down once they have been set. set them once and move onto the next set. you cant keep going back to the ones you have adjusted because they will be loose again once the motor is turned around by hand. you need to have a procedure for adjusting the valves. pick one there is more than one way to do them.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I totally disagree with that. "Bleed down" doesn't take place in an engine that is being turned over by hand. Plunger spring force is more than enough to keep the pushrod & rockers tight.
The originator didn't say what he figured out, but I'm betting he thought #1 was dot-to-dot on the timing set.
The originator didn't say what he figured out, but I'm betting he thought #1 was dot-to-dot on the timing set.
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From: missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS 383
Engine: carbed 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 383 timing marks????
I'm going to drop the pan on the car and take a look at the bottom gear on the crank. I put the timing set on the car with the dots in the wrong spot. I have the crank gear dot at the bottom and the cam gear has the dot at the top. So I have to get the motor on TDC of the compression stroke and loosen the valves and take the chain off, spin the crank so the dot is on top and then move the cam gear till it has the dot at the bottom lined up with the crank gear. Then I have to probably get it back on TDC of the compression stroke and start the sequence for adjusting the valves again. Sound right?
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Crank-dot-down/cam-dot-up is certainly not correct. Crank-dot-up/cam-dot-down is the easiest way to make sure the cam is properly timed. That and crank-dot-up/cam-dot-up are the only two ways the cam is correct.
Loosen all of the rockers before you turn the crank. Only way to know no valves and pistons are going to collide.
After you have the timing set properly installed, adjust all rockers to zero lash. Then turn the crank 1/2 turn and adjust any loose rockers to zero lash. Repeat 2 more times and every rocker will be at zero lash. Then you can turn each down 1/2 turn more for the final adjustment.
Assuming these are hydraulic lifters, of course.
Loosen all of the rockers before you turn the crank. Only way to know no valves and pistons are going to collide.
After you have the timing set properly installed, adjust all rockers to zero lash. Then turn the crank 1/2 turn and adjust any loose rockers to zero lash. Repeat 2 more times and every rocker will be at zero lash. Then you can turn each down 1/2 turn more for the final adjustment.
Assuming these are hydraulic lifters, of course.
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From: maine
Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
Re: 383 timing marks????
just telling what has been my experience with the pushrod spin between your fingers method. once tight and adjusted you can get them to spin in your hand once again a few minuets later certainly after you have turned the motor around. I guess that would be them bleeding down to a point..but not a 1/8 inch or anything depenfing on how picky he is being with this adjustment. a few thousanths yes any more no.
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