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timing chain question

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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 10:41 PM
  #1  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
timing chain question

Will this timing chain fit my car?? Mod's are in signature.

CLO-9-3500TX9

If you have another suggestion, please give so. I got an lt4 hot cam which is a hydraulic roller camshaft. Will everything work right and fit properly?
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #2  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: timing chain question

No it won't, but this one will: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #3  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Re: timing chain question

I havnt heard the best reviews for comp cams timing chains. You sure it will hold up??
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 08:42 AM
  #4  
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Re: timing chain question

Then you've been listening to the wrong "reviews".

The one the Apeiron posted is an excellent choice.

The 3500 is for non-factory-roller-cam applications. It will not fit a factory roller cam such as the LT4 HOT cam.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #5  
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From: Philly, PA
Re: timing chain question

If you're not a fan of Comp's stuff then here's one from GMPP....

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+

Double row timing chain sets often rub on the top of the center oil galley boss above the cam and require some clearancing with a die grinder. This single row set from GM will not have that problem.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #6  
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Re: timing chain question

From the GMPP part's description:
They have a solid-bushing chain
That's not roller chain, that's bushing chain. "Truck chain". Worse than the stock Link-Belt type.

That's why it "fits", but real roller chains sometimes don't.

Here's another actual roller one. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...CLO%2D9%2D3145
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #7  
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From: Roy,UT USA
Re: timing chain question

I used the Cloyes 3145 set Sofa mentioned in the post above in my 88 L98, and it fits great, no clearance issues at all. I even tapped the galley holes and used threaded pipe plugs instead of the tap-in plugs, and it still clears them no problem.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:20 AM
  #8  
Dirtbik3r's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
Re: timing chain question

Thanks for the info. I ordered the comp cams one and it should be here monday unless we get hammered with that bad nor'easter.

I used the Cloyes 3145 set Sofa mentioned in the post above in my 88 L98, and it fits great, no clearance issues at all. I even tapped the galley holes and used threaded pipe plugs instead of the tap-in plugs, and it still clears them no problem.
Can someone tell me if i have to buy an oil gallery plug and what size etc...
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 12:17 PM
  #9  
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: timing chain question

You don't need to change the oil galley plugs if there's nothing wrong with yours. The block may need to be ground down around the plugs to clear the timing set, though.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 05:47 PM
  #10  
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From: Roy,UT USA
Re: timing chain question

Originally Posted by Apeiron
You don't need to change the oil galley plugs if there's nothing wrong with yours. The block may need to be ground down around the plugs to clear the timing set, though.
Of course you don't have to change the oil galley plugs. I merely did that as a matter of preference when I was building my motor. I've never liked the cheesy press fit plugs that are put in there from the factory. The threaded plugs is how the factory did it on the three rear plugs. They're just a better way of doing it. The reason they put them in the rear galleys is so there's no chance of them coming out. The whole reason I brought that up is the fact that the threaded plugs stick out a little further than the block casting does, and the Cloyes set even clears them, so there was no grinding involved anywhere. I wouldn't ever recommend threading the oil galley holes on a running motor because of the shavings you get while tapping them, but tons of engine builders do this when the block is being prepped for a rebuild at the machine shop. Have you ever seen what the galley holes look like after being staked with a chisel or punch several different times when using the press fit plugs? Screw that.
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