warden0503

iTrader: (1)

I have an 84 Z28 L69 w/ 75000 miles on it, been sitting for 10 years,

not sure how or to whom to contact to start the engine rebuild,

-who to go to
-amount expect to pay
-what to watch out for
-etc..

Im in Southern New Jersey and some suggestions would be appreciated.

TY in advance

ws6transam

Just to let you know,
The L69 for 1984 used a .015" coated steel head gasket to keep the compression ratio up to 9.5:1. Don't use a standard .041" head gasket or you'll lose compression ratio.

The L69 used flat top pistons instead of dished. If you need replacement pistons, get the flat top version. You can specify a 1985 305 TPI engine application if you want, it's the same piston.

You want the piston to head distance to be .040 inches. Thus, with a .015 tall gasket, the piston to deck distance at tod-dead-center should be -0.025 inches. Some steel gaskets are .018 inches tall. In that case, have the deck of your block machined to put the piston at -.023 inches. This will minimize quench, and maximize compression ratio.

The cylinder heads will respond to a couple hundred dollars worth of pocket porting under the valves. If you want to try it, you can probably save a few dollars by replacing the cylinder heads with some Vortech heads and an Edelbrock performer intake manifold, so long as the Vortech heads have their combustion chambers machined to 58 to 60 cc. That'll wake up the engine nicely. For this engine, you will be best served with aftermarket retainers and some Comp Cams 981-16 valvesprings.

Get yourself a camshaft with a 112 lobe separation angle and about .460" of valve lift with a 1.52 rocker arm. Any of the emissions-legal cams will do the trick. Replace the stamped steel rockers with a roller tipped rocker arm to help firm up the valvetrain.

Now, just be careful on break-in of the enggine. You want to use Diesel oil during breakin because it has a higher zinc content which will help settle in the new lifters. Motor oils have changed drastically in the last seven years, and it has made it very hard to break in a new flat-tappet cam.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Spending money on a 305 short block!!!

Why are you doing this? That is, what is making you think that "rebuilding" is necessary (or even, appropriate)?

If there's nothing wrong with the short block, DON'T TOUCH IT. There are few greater wastes of money in the world than putting it into a 305 short block. If there's nothing wrong with it, like if the rings seal and all that, then JUST RUN IT. If it has low oil pressure, the MAX you should do, is crank-kit it. (crank & bearings - $200-250)

If it needs the block bored, THROW IT AWAY, and get a 350 block instead. You'll spend exactly the same on boring, exactly the same on honing, exactly the same for rings, maybe a little less on pistons, and all else exactly the same, for a 350 compared to a 305. Your local machine shop can probably sell you a 350 block all prepped and all, for less than $50 over the cost of working up your 305 block. That $50 is THE CHEAPEST POWER MONEY CAN BUY!!!!!!!

A cam upgrade can be another big power payoff with almost no incremental cost. Since it's the L69, it has high compression, and lots of gear; so get a Comp XE262 and the valve springs & hardware that goes with it.

Get those heads worked, and do a bowl port job on them yourself. That's the second cheapest HP you can buy, is DIY head work.

warden0503

iTrader: (1)

ty for the replies

its my first car from childhhood, im now older and have the money to fix it to new,

not interested in speed, i can get that with the newer cars

my interest is in keeping it original