CCC with no Emissions - Problems
CCC with no Emissions - Problems
Recently installed Hooker Headers. Removed all emissions and AIR. Did some vacuum line rerouting and plugging. LG4 with Carb. New plugs/wires, 02 sensor, cap/rotor, re-adjusted timing. Having Idle problems. high when in drive (pulls car). When put in neutral/park high idle. Thinking the vacuum lines are routed wrong or set timing wrong. I've searched forums for hours for answers. I need to know what others did with vacuum lines after deleting EGR and stuff. And my timing info has been very different from a few places. We unplugged the EST wire to set initial timing. Turned Engine off then plugged wire back in. Is that the correct way? Also heard I was supposed to unplug the 4 wire connector to the distributor as well? After initial timing is there another thing I can do to fine tune the timing.
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
Re: CCC with no Emissions - Problems
well if you delete EGR then you just dont have that hose anymore, its pretty simple
what do you mean what to do with the hoses after deleting such things as the EGR ? if you remove all the emissions and ECM system then all you will have for vacuum hoses is the heater a/c system hose, the vaccum advance hose, and the pvc hose and the charcoal canister hoses
check your timing and idle speed
set them to where theyre supposed to be
what distributor are you running ? it sounds like you still have the CCC distributor in which you now need to get rid of if you are removing the CCC carb, etc, the CCC dizzy has no mechanical tming advance mechanism in it and most didnt have vacuum advance either, so you will have no tming advance at all it wont run right or will have loss of power above about 1500rpm, or even less
what carb do ou have? still have the E4ME ?
do you have any vacuum leak anywhere ?
are you positive ?
even not any leak from under the carb ?
spray around the base of the carb with cleaner or starting fluid with it running
see if it speeds up any
you need your PVC hose and valve in the driver side valve cover to the carb base, dont delete that
keep the small vacuum hose from the heater/ac box area to the intake manifold behind the carb
dont delete that either
try to keep the fuel tank vent fumes charcoal canister connected to the pvc and to the carb also there is no good reason to eliminate that either
if the car ran fine before you started removing stuff then you should have left it alone technically because you can get yourself into a little predicament if you dont know what stuff is, and the AIr system does not impeded performance evne one tiny bit all it does is inject freshair into the exhaust manifolds to burn off unburnt fuel so if it was all intact and working then there was no point in removing it
i can convert one from CCC to non CCC in a matter of about 30 minutes if i have the dizzy and the carb on hand, but then ive been doing thios for years, and i only do it if the E4ME carb is junk, or something else bad is wrong, otherwise the E4ME carb system runs very efficiently and is real good on gas, when its all running properly
we need more info from you
good luck
what do you mean what to do with the hoses after deleting such things as the EGR ? if you remove all the emissions and ECM system then all you will have for vacuum hoses is the heater a/c system hose, the vaccum advance hose, and the pvc hose and the charcoal canister hoses
check your timing and idle speed
set them to where theyre supposed to be
what distributor are you running ? it sounds like you still have the CCC distributor in which you now need to get rid of if you are removing the CCC carb, etc, the CCC dizzy has no mechanical tming advance mechanism in it and most didnt have vacuum advance either, so you will have no tming advance at all it wont run right or will have loss of power above about 1500rpm, or even less
what carb do ou have? still have the E4ME ?
do you have any vacuum leak anywhere ?
are you positive ?
even not any leak from under the carb ?
spray around the base of the carb with cleaner or starting fluid with it running
see if it speeds up any
you need your PVC hose and valve in the driver side valve cover to the carb base, dont delete that
keep the small vacuum hose from the heater/ac box area to the intake manifold behind the carb
dont delete that either
try to keep the fuel tank vent fumes charcoal canister connected to the pvc and to the carb also there is no good reason to eliminate that either
if the car ran fine before you started removing stuff then you should have left it alone technically because you can get yourself into a little predicament if you dont know what stuff is, and the AIr system does not impeded performance evne one tiny bit all it does is inject freshair into the exhaust manifolds to burn off unburnt fuel so if it was all intact and working then there was no point in removing it
i can convert one from CCC to non CCC in a matter of about 30 minutes if i have the dizzy and the carb on hand, but then ive been doing thios for years, and i only do it if the E4ME carb is junk, or something else bad is wrong, otherwise the E4ME carb system runs very efficiently and is real good on gas, when its all running properly
we need more info from you
good luck
Last edited by Randy82WS7; Jun 20, 2007 at 11:19 AM.
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