I guess all the heat fried the solenoid. I (foolishly) shut the car off after a 1.5 highway drive. 3HRS later no start.

It would always start after 20 min tops---but not this time

I have the SLP 1 3/4 headers

What starter will bolt right on with no clearance issues?
Part numbers would be great.

 

proform starter, i had hot start problems, it seemed to have solved it, always turns over fast and had worked great so far, all the big wigs carry it

 

Thanks I will see who carries that. Not all US parts stores are in Canada but I think I can find it.

Guess what....now the car just started!! wtf?

Only think I did differently at the wash was a minor spray under the hood and a better one underneath the engine. But the water would help the starter cool down, right?

Regaurdless, a new starter is coming. Now I don't have to get it towed

 

its real simple and quick to make a shield out of an old piece of alumnum or tin

to protect that solenoid

even a monkey could do it im sure


im pretty sure some of the early mid 90s full size trucks used a factory smaller size starter that would work real well


good luck

 

does my car have a Fits 168 tooth flywheel or 153?

 

[im pretty sure some of the early mid 90s full size trucks used a factory smaller size starter that would work real well]

That would be referring to the LT1 starter. They're smaller and use gear reduction for more cranking power, just like the aftermarket mini starters. Your flywheel is 153 tooth. Make sure whatever starter you end up buying has the straight across bolt holes. Starters with the staggered mounting holes are for the 168 tooth flywheels.

 

thanks for the help!

I am looking at this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...6460059&rd=1,1

 

The heat shield bit is WORTHLESS. It doesn't fix the REAL problem, which is, the stupid ancient stock starter design from the 40s that GM should have ditched by the 70s, since alternatives were available.

That LT1 type starter in the eBay listing would be much better than the best you could ever possibly get one of those old Stone Age stock direct-drive POS things to be. It'll probably end up going for about $125 plus freight, that being what those cost at the parts store.

Any of the aftermarket "mini-starters" will run circles around the stock POS as well. They're all gear-reduction like that one so they have far more torque than the stock junker, and they all use a fraction of the curent and weigh a fraction of what that extinct dinosaur on your car weighs besides.