Hi guys, FIrst I would like to say that Im not new to this site, ive been browsing threads to solve problems using the "Search" feature, However this time I couldnt find what I needed. I own a 89 Camaro RS TTOPs 305 auto, 216K, got it about 2 months ago, however i drove a v6 Berlinetta before that, Anyway

Here is my Problem.

The Ignition cylinder ( where u put the key in to flip and start car) seems like its stuck, I can put in the Key fine, Flip once to get the power working ( windows, radio etc) However I cant turn it any further to start the car, seems like its just dead on Stuck. Ive spent about 2+ hours turning the key with no luck.

Ive read the common Security lock problem threads, However my Security light doesnt stay on, so its not the Security lock.

I know i will have to swap the ignition neck ether way, Can somebody help me give an idea how to get to it? I havent found any screws or anything around the steering wheel to acess it.

Tnx for help

 

Check out the other ignition cylinder post.
Cooter

 

just for kicks, is the steering wheel all the way over to one lock? if it is turn it back a little and all should work. just a shot in the dark

 

try rocking steering wheel back and forth while turning key . if it does not work . i dunno ????

 

I CURRENTLY have the same problem. I made a thread
not too long ago about my key tumbler jamming up at the
ACC position..but won't turn another 1/4 turn to start the
car.

Luckly, some idiot tried to steal my car the first night
I bought the car..(a VATS car too) and cracked my steering
column. Which allows me to get access to the interworkings
of the ignition.

If you can get in there, 2 things I suggest looking for is
the plastic gear that pulls the ignition rod back, or the
actual key tumbler operation could be jammed up by debris
or grime. The only way I know to get in there is to crack
the column yourself, or take the whole thing apart.

I STILL start my car with the tilt column rod that unscrews,
I place it behind the aluminum ignition rod in the column,
give it a nice pull and, she starts everytime.

Of course, it still requires my key and VATS to work, but
it's irritating.. I cant just turn my key to start the "beast".

I plan on replacing the column.. when I dont need the
car everyday to get to work, until then I gotta do what
I have to do.

Good luck

 

Dont crack your column!

You say your car has 217K miles...I'd say your ignition cylinder and/or tumblers are simply worn out. It's time for a new ignition cylinder.

You have 2 choices:
1. Buy a standard, non VATS cylinder, install it. While doing that, snake out the 2 orange wires from the column and just hang your old cylinder, with the original key installed, under your steering column, make sure those wires are reattached to the old cylinder. Use the new, non VATS key from now on.

2. Buy a VATS cylinder with a new VATS key. Have your current VATS key checked to ensure you buy the correct resistance key for your car. Or, have a dealer do this for you (It'll cost you though).

Whatever you do, there is a proper way to get to the ignition without cracking your column...it's very simple.

 

Well.. Luckly the ole' thief done it for me!

I would never suggest such an idea, but.. I was
trying to give him some incite on what might be
the culprit.

How to go about solving it.. well, you hit the nail
right on the head.. Ill be following that advice in
the near future.

 

Ive went to a local part store they set me up with an appropriate i.cyl, ( /w VATS), waiting for the weekend to come to replace it,

One Question thought :
To remove steering wheel - do you unscrew the big middle nut, or the little ones on its sides? Once you take it off - Do you have clear access to the i.cyl ? or something else needs to be removed?

Questions May sound silly, but i would like to know in wich order/ what stuff has to get removed inorder to change it,

Ive been able to find a diagram in one of the threads made regarding similar issue, http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

 

You have to remove the big nut in the middle, then use a steering wheel puller to get your wheel off. Then you have to push down the lock plate while you remove the snap ring. It's a PITA without the right tool. Harbor freight sells a lockplate compressor that makes it a breeze to do. You wear your thumbs out trying to keep the plate pressed down while you try to get the snap ring off without that tool. Once the lockplate is out of the way, you need to remove the horn contact hub and the big spring behind it. Undo the phillips screw that attaches the turn signal lever, remove the hazard ****, and then the three phillips screws that hold the turn signal assembly in the housing. Then carefully pull it towards you far enough to swing it down out of the way. Use a pair of needlenose pliers and pluck out the contact thing that has two brass pieces sticking up from it. Once that's removed, you'll see one torx screw that holds the ignition tumbler in the column. Once you undo that screw, insert your key and turn the cylinder to the on position, and you should be able to pull the cylinder out. I personally prefer to take the original VATS cylinder out of the column like the other poster said, and replace it with a cheap, regular key cylinder, then just tuck the original VATS cylinder up under the dash, plug it back in, and shove the key in it. Lot cheaper way to fix it, and you don't have to worry about the stupid little wires on the VATS cylinder breaking due to constantly being rotated whenever you turn the key, which causes the car not to start. I had to tear my column apart several times to repair those stupid wires before I wised up and put a standard key switch in the column and shoved the VATS cylinder up under the dash.

 

Woah, thanks a bunch for detailed info. I am going out to garage in a bit to tackle on this issue, I do not have steering wheel removal tool unfortunately, however i got a buddy to help me, well see how that goes.

One more thing - I didint realize this when i was reading all the VATS threads, Do I undertsand correctly that the original keys that come in the box when u buy the replacement wont work? You have to cut new ones?

Once again tnx for info, very helpfull to know the process before you begin working on it

 

fheww, OK

so I went to local hardware store they lend me the Steering wheel/ Compressor kit,

Followed the steps you gave me, it was pretty simple once u get the Wheel/Lockplate off, got my way to the cylinder - Took that out,

NOWWW....

I put the new i.cyl in, Finally the key Turns to start the car (but it wont start due to VATS not beeing connected/ standart keys(?) read on,

However - I found it a problem to connect the VATS adaptor (from the new cylinder) to the existing one, Because it runs all the way down the steering column wich i dont have acess to, Ive tryed pulling the wire out - But no luck. Im guessing best bet would be to Cut the old VATS wires and plug them into the adaptor from new i.cyl ~ let me know.

I also remember it beeing mentioned that they Keys that come standart with the i.Cyl you purchase are "Dummy" keys and I have to get ones cut from GM dealer in order to work with VATS ~ Let me know

 

You could bypass the VATS if you dont really care about it.

 

No, IM keeping VATS in place for now,

as for little update on this case -

Went to local GM dealer today, got the VATS Key cut (50$ CA),
Put it in new i.Cyl connected the vats wires - BAM started right up,

I didint have time to put everything back in place yet unfortunately - but looks like Im at the final stage - Put everything back in place, which would be another Quest.

Felts so good when i cranked the key and it fired up, mmm the sound, missed it alot over 2 weeks the car standing waiting to be fixed, been driving my 86 Ford F250 mean while, cant wait to put the Maro on road once again

AN yeah lol, finally found the HAYNES manual everybody talking about - ive never seen those before on shelf untill today i swear. Buying it tommorow

 

Congrats man. When you were reading my post on how to go about things, it probably sounded pretty complicated, but it's actually pretty self-explanatory once you tear into it huh? One other thing. I wouldn't be in too big of a hurry to run out and buy a Haynes manual. They're hardly worth the paper they're printed on. They cover the basics, but that's about it. The thicker, green colored Chiltons is a bit better. If you're really serious about keeping your thirdgen for a long time and doing most of the repairs yourself, there's no substitute for the factory shop manual. I bought a reprinted, new one off ebay a while back. It was about $80, but it's two books that are about 7 inches thick when stacked together! I realized I needed one when I was rebuiding my L98, and neither the Haynes or the Chiltons manual list any of the torque specs for the 1 piece RMS, roller cam engines, which is pathetic considering they started putting them in our cars in 87. In fact, the Haynes manual is so outdated they added a tiny, supplemental chapter at the end of the book that's supposed to cover the 86 and newer thirdgens. The original manual was probably printed in 84 or 85. Anyways, glad you got your VATS issues taken care of. Btw, Helm Inc. is the company that offers the factory shop manuals in case you decide to pick one up.