ok i just got some new parts and was wondering about hp numbers---


this is going onto this motor--http://store.summitracing.com/partde...splayPrice%7C0

now here are the parts that will be in it---

cam-http://store.summitracing.com/partde...K&autoview=sku

heads-http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

intake-http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

carb-http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

dizzy--http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...55778_-1_10679

coil-http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...47804_-1_10681

sorry this is so long, wanted to put all of my parts on here. this is going into a 91 camaro with a 700r4, 3.73 posi.

 

id just build a short block rather than tear a crate motor all apart for the money its worth u could have some real good parts inside(good pistons,rod bolts at least). it would be like a 400ish hp motor. u dont need a coil either the dissy comes with a good one.

 

I have the same heads/intake/gears and a 215/215 roller cam, just a touch smaller than yours but with more lift. I just ran a series of 13.0's at 108.

 

I would estimate 315-330 hp. I ran a similar combo with a bracket master cam that spec'd at 455 lift, a little bigger head, (200cc), a demon 750 dp, air gap intake, and long tube headers. Made 327 hp and ran 12.47 with a 5 speed.

 

so a 750 carb won't be too big for this combo? would a 600 or 650 work better?

 

I'd say a 650 carb would probably suit it better with the cam you're looking at. Those heads have some really nice flow potential though, and you could probably do them a lot more justice by going with a larger cam. I'd be looking at cams around 292 adv. duration and lift around 500 personally.

 

I'm currently running a 600 but feel that it's under carbed, I got a 750 so I'll try that to see if I can get 12's on street tires.

 

i would stay away from that cam
i apologize for not being an expert on what im abotu to quote, someone maybe can elaborate for me, but you want a cam with ideally as little difference between advertised duration, and actual duration.

the amoutn of degrees between the two is time the valve is spent just cracked open and not contributing anything to the motor.

im running a comp cams grind thats advertised at 274 and is actual 224/230, that lunati grind si 284 with an actual 118

on top of that the lift numbers are incredibly low, with stock rockers i get lift around .515

based on what ive read thats not exactly an ideal cam

EDIT: and whats with the springs on those heads?
Maximum Valve Lift (in): 0.480 in.
that umm sucks, not sure how else to put it. On a quality aluminum head you should be able to get valve lift up to .600

 

he is looking at a flat tappet cam, they have way less lift compared to a roller for the most part because the lobes will self destruct under the spring pressure required to control the valves if they are too aggressive.

it's also difficult to compare adv duration numbers across different manufacturers because there is no set way to do it, some companies use duration at .006, some use .001, there are others too.

he's also a spring swap away from .600 lift.

 

ah makes sense
i fully dont understand tho how you can make power with a motor only going to .50 lift tho, when the heads flow to .540 out of the box
but im not expert on flat tappet

as for those heads just dont buy that package, youll need to buy springs all over again, get some better springs thatll take some abuse

 

yea, i would go with at least the 1.47(not dual springs) springs if your going to run a flat tappet.

OP-is your block a roller block?

 

That's a terrible idea there.

Buy a short block, not a complete engine, if you're buying heads, intake
, cam.
The heads you chose are good.
That cam sucks, skip it.
That intake is good.
That carb isn't worth the cash - you've got loads of q-jets at the wrecker for cheap that'll do the same thing. If you're going to spend the cash get a double pumper from holley or demon.

 

i already have that motor, i am wanting to put these parts onto it, so getting a new motor is out of the question

 

Picking a flat tappet cam is definitely a different ball game from picking a hydraulic roller. I'm running the cam posted in the link below in my 69 Camaro with a 355 sbc, 3.73 gears, Holley 650DP, Weiand X-Celerator #7546 single plane intake, and fully ported #462 casting, 2.02/1.60, 62cc fuelie heads. You're going to have a lot better flowing heads than what I have, and even with the old-school fuelies, my motor absolutely screams with this cam. From 1800-6000 rpm, it pulls like a freight train. Even with the single plane intake, it'll roast the tires til they blow. It'd probably work great with that Performer RPM too. This cam is probably old technology compared to some of the new Lunati Voodoo grinds and the Comp Xtreme energy series, but I've had no complaints with it. Anyways, take a look at the specs, and look for cams with similar numbers. Since you're running an auto trans, you'll want to make sure to match up a good convertor with it too. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku I also used the Crane High Intensity lifters. They're variable duration just like the Rhoads lifters, which help boost low end torque and engine vacuum without sacrificing any top end. Here's the link for those: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku I'm no genius on cams, but I figured I'd post the setup I'm using just as a starting point/suggestion for you. Hope it helps.

 

what size of converter would be good?

 

I wouldn't go lower than 2500rpm.

Is the block a roller block?

 

no not a roller